x2 on baby steps

 

Yup...now if I could just baby step my way into a truck that didn't have rust issues...

 

odd...
babies get diaper rash
trucks get rust
proper cleaning prevents both.

 

true...but I think some of the rust is beyond repair...i.e. not so sure I could adjust my torsion bars. I would like to get some of the rust squared away-at least the cab, maybe the fenders. But first I got to get it running!

 

see... now you're thinking.
get it running, fix the rest later.

 

Well, made some progress after recieving an intake manifold from a Yotatech member (thanks mako4r!). I was able to reinstall the manifold and plug in my cleaned/balanced injectors (compliments of Witchhunter Performance). That was as far as I got tonight with trying to remember how things went back together. I have two things I don't have a home for (yet). One is a small vac hose and the other is from the wiring harness and has a square metal connector (ground of some sort?). I will try and get some pics up tomorrow.

 

Okay, I found a pick of the little wiring metal connector...where does this go?

 

I assume it gets put on the "missing" stud on the manifold, along with the rubber hose that also has a tab for attaching to a bolt...

 

Well...got to look at a co-workers truck of the same vintage and found where the wire and the vac hose went to. I was correct in thinking the wire was just grounded to the intake, while the hose I missed in the dark last night and took ten seconds to see where it went and put it in the right place.

Tonight, put the upper intake on, adjusted the valves (.007 and .011 to start), plugged the distributor back in, valve cover on, belts, etc. Had some bad luck...broke a bolt on the end of the air intake chamber towards the firewall...cursed and hucked socket onto floor (broke ratchet...doh). Ended up leaving it as was. I know I will have to fix it later.

Went to start it and it turned over (this time I remembered to jumper the TE and E in the diagnostic box). Then the battery died. Apparently this has taken too long!!

Jumped the truck with my work rig and it fired right up!! SUCCESS!! Let it run for 5 mins or so and got some weird smoke on the exhaust (new gaskets burning off?). Then I noticed a leak...gas...from the second injector, just pissing out. Not sure what the heck happened there. So, I guess I will have to pull the upper intake off (fix the broken bolt), purchase the correct gasket for that piece on the end, and figure out the injector.

 

congrats on your progress!
yeah, smoking exhaust gaskets, maybe oil from your hands on the manifold, it'll burn off.

how does it feel doing it all yourself?

 

Feels awesome...but sucks that I still have to fix the injector leak. I started it this morning and it was dribbling gas, not pissing out like last night. Not sure if it isn't seated right, sure looked like it was coming right out near the wire plug.

I was holding my breath when I started it. If it doesn't leak after running for 10-15 mins am I home free?

 

things happen when murphy is in the mix.
anyways, if the leak stops, it stops. it may just be the seal had a kink or something and is working it's way around.

 

Okay...so I pulled the air intake chamber off and got a look at the #2 injector. Pulled the fuel rail and it looks like the gasket was poor on #2 (looked like a portion of it was smaller than the rest). Grabbed a spare O-ring and put it on. Everything seems to rotate smoothly so I put the injectors & fuel rail back in.

With regards to the broken bolt on the air intake...I vice gripped out the broken bolt and determined that the threads were stripped. Question is:

What size is the bolt that goes in here (I think it is the EGR that bolts on here)?

Can I purchase that size tap and re-tap the whole or do I need to go one size larger and just use a bigger bolt?

Thanks!

 

Is that the part that screws into the passenger side of the head..rear?
Also, can you post a pic or explain where that wire went, I just stuck mine onto the nearest most convenient hole!
Id tap that hole if its in the head.

 

I am pretty sure that it is part of the EGR valve that gets attached to the upper air intake and it was one of those bolts that went into the air intake that I broke. I was able to buy a 8mm 1.25 tap and fix the threads (and I actually used a bolt that holds the cam in place with a few extra washers to get the right length).

I attached the wire to the bolt on the right as you look into the space between the two sets of air intakes. Basically there are four bolts that go across in a row and the one I attached the wire to was the second from the front of the motor.

 

If you look at the pic above it is the bolt hole on the far right, mid-screen.


Okay...got the truck all back together tonight and it still runs! Ran it for a few minutes and it appears that it was just a kinked o-ring that was causing the gas leak. Took it for a spin around the block and it seems okay, although it idles a bit rough. I guess the next things I need to do are to adjust the idle and set the timing. Can I adjust the idle by ear or do I need to purchase a tach?

 

I'd suggest using a tach, but if you have a timing light, alternate between lowering the idle and adjusting the timing until you have a quiet idle with the timing set properly, and see how it drives.

 

so in looking at some other threads it sounds like I should adjust the timing first...gotta dig out the timing light and see if it still works...and then adjust the idle does this sound right to you abecedarian?

 

well, you need a high enough idle to keep the engine running.
then set the timing with the jumper in, lower the idle with the jumper out, set the timing with the jumper in, lower the idle with the jumper out, etc.
I've got a feeling you'll know when the idle is close. Not too low, not too high, smooth, doesn't sound like the engine or fan is screaming at you.