well...some further headway was made...other than the broken chunk off the intake manifold (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-22re-150472/).

Managed to get all the bolts of the intake manifold (without breaking anything else I hope) and I removed all of the head bolts and it is free from the block. However, it looks like I have some more wiring to disconnect before separating the intake from the head. 1 goes right to the block (oil temp?) and the others go back to the O2 sensor, the tranny, and the transfer case. Rather than trace them down, would it be easier to pull the main wiring (ECU?) through the firewall?

Got the new parts from Engnbldr today...new head with cam installed, head gasket kit and new head bolts. Sending the injectors to WitchHunter Performance tomorrow. Forgot to pull of the spacer, so hopefully they return that....

Will post pics of the new parts and block once it is all clear of the head & intake.

 

I always pull the whole harness disconnected from the computer through the firewall. It's easy to rip all the connectors apart to remove pieces from the engine. No so easy to put everything back together again. With the harness out of the truck you can route the wires as you assemble the engine and put it back in as a unit. Also to clean and replace any broken connectors, this is the time to do it. Most all wires have unique plugs so it's easy to get them back where they belong. The ones that have the same plugs, like the injectors, the wire length will usually only allow them to go where they belong. Take pictures, especially where the harness enters the intake area so you can reroute it back the same. The passenger side wheel well opening is your friend.

 

Thanks deserthound...I will try that this evening if I get a chance. I just hate the thought of breaking a connector and getting into some of the tighter places...

 

So progress made tonight...got the intake off and the head after pulling the wires through the firewall-much easier than I thought. Thanks for the suggestion to do it that way. I did however manage to break two of the three bolts broken on the ECU...I guess I will mount it in the glove box like Roger Brown (4Crawler) suggests.

Looked at all the new parts I have and realized I need to pull the studs out of the old block and into the new. Is this what people normally do or do you purchase new bolts? Also, realized I need to remove the rocker arm assembly from the old head and put it on the new one. Old rocker arms okay with a new cam?

 

just put new head on my 22r and i used the same rockers and no problem but would recommend changeing the head bolts

 

you will need to adjust the valve clearence once its all back together

 

have a new cam as well

 

drerye-thanks man. I have new head bolts so I will be using those. Did you take all of the studs off the old head for the intake/exhaust manifolds or did you go new with those?

Plan on picking up a tap for the head bolts today, along with gasket scraper (I guess a razor blade would work), and maybe something to remove the carbon on the pistons.

 

The old studs come out and can be reused if you don't want to buy new. I just soak them with PB Blaster and double nut them and they backed right out.

Btw, you really shouldn't run a tap through the head bolt holes. It can actually enlarge them and give you problems in the future. What you were looking for is either a thread chaser or just take an old bolt and cut a few notches in it. (Or at least that's what I've read here in countless threads. I just used a shop vac on mine and was fine. )

 

Thanks for the heads up about tapping the head bolt holes...I bought the tap but it is unopened...maybe I will look for a thread chaser.

Also was able to get most of the studs out...still soaking one so hopefully that will come out. Waiting on the intake manifold to get here and then I will have all the parts...

 

Made some progress, so I thought I would post some pics. Let me know what you guys think.

uncleaned block


cleaner


new head gasket


new head w. 261 cam from EB installed with old exhaust (no $ for a header right now)


new timing chain components compliments of EB

 

I am paranoid that things aren't going to be right this time and so I am taking my time and going super-duper slow. So far, it appears that everything is working. I guess I will head back out and install the cover and water pump, oil pump unless any of you folks see anything I have screwed up!!

Also need to adjust the valves I guess. When I put the rocker assembly on, I just put the new spacers on the head, pried off the assembly from the old head and plopped it down on the new head. loosened the valve nuts as much as I could (exhaust on #2 or #3 was still kinda tight) and torqued in three rounds 30, 45, 58 with the new head bolts.

I just want it done, running with no leaks...plus we are moving to Idaho in a few weeks so I need to get it done...

 

Be extremely careful putting the timing cover on. I can't tell if you dropped the oil pan down at all, but if you didn't, the timing cover will be a tight fit between the pan and the head. Be sure the timing cover does not catch and bend back the front of the head gasket. It's easy to do and guarantees a continuous oil seepage. Once you get it on correctly and get all the bolts started to hold it in place, don't forget the bolt that goes vertically down from the front of the head into the timing cover under the distributor drive gear. Good luck.

 

well screwed up the gasket on the timing chain cover...sigh...so pulled it all off and prepped for a new gasket (which my wife will hopefully pick up tomorrow). Put the new spark plugs in and put the new valve cover gasket on...I noticed that the tiny metal piece that sticks down got hit by the timing chain, resulting in it being worn through....any issue with this?

 

I see that the distributor drive gear looks like it's in correctly this time.
set your valves to .007" intake and .011" exhaust for now. when warm they will loosen up and will need checked at that time. should be .008 / .012

small metal piece that sticks down? got a pic?
are you referring to the baffle under the oil fill cap?

 

some pics of the valve cover piece I am referring to...

 

not a problem.
What I see is that either the cover was tightened down too much (easy to do with the rubber grommets on those 4 bolts) or that slack in the chain (caused by worn / broken guides) was causing the chain to float off the cam sprocket and slap against the cover.

 

Maybe I should drop the oil pan lower when I install the cover next time...I have the two bolts off and the next two loose....If I loosen more will I need to regasket?

Abecedarian-yup...got the drive gear in properly!! I even emailed Ted photos to make sure I was doing it right...getting paranoid I guess. I plan on doing the valves tomorrow...Ted suggests .007 & .009 I think, but I will go with what you wrote tomorrow.

 

alright...sweet...glad I don't need to buy anything else....yet. I would like to get a header at some point. Once I get it back up and running (oh please!) I need to clean and re-grease the Aisins, maybe remove the AC, and maybe do diff breathers. Maybe I should stop while I am ahead though!

 

baby steps... yes!!!!