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22RE Timing Chain no start

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Old Jul 20, 2008 | 07:02 PM
  #41  
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abecedarian-thanks for the help man. I went outside and pulled the dist and tried to get everything lined up as best as I could (TDC and the rotor pointing at the contact for cylinder #1) and still no go. I am done. It is going to a garage tomorrow. I do appreciate the help and I wish that I had been able to get it going myself again. Thanks man
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Old Jul 20, 2008 | 07:09 PM
  #42  
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Sad to see you give up so quickly, but I understand the reasons.
It's all good, and I really hope that trying to replace the chain didn't dissuade you from working on the truck in the future. Don't let one mistake make you feel incapable of working on your truck. Sometimes you have to 'reset' yourself, and I know that. That doesn't mean you're a failure by any means. Experience takes, well, experience.
In the mean time, we're here, all of us @ yotatech. and will help however we can in the future.
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Old Jul 20, 2008 | 07:25 PM
  #43  
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Thanks for the kind words. This will be the first time in roughly 4 years that I will have brought the truck to a mechanic (other than the steering relay recall). Although I haven't had to replace much in that time! Just the normal stuff (valve cover gaskets, shocks, radiator, belts, airbag suspension, custom bumper). I guess I thought I could do it myself...and in a way I did...I replaced everything and it ran. I think I got fouled up near the end. I tried to start and adjust the timing without jumping the TE1 and E1 terminals.

I guess I could give it more time, but I keep getting frustrated and I would rather get it running so my wife and I can go to some places her car won't go.

I guess I have a way to go before a motor swap or a SAS! Thanks again-I really did appreciate all the advice!
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Old Jul 20, 2008 | 07:28 PM
  #44  
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P.s.

How is cell tower climbing?? I always wondered what it would be like since I imagine that they would have to hire people that aren't nervous with height, can work with tools, and are physically capable of climbing.

I climb for fun (rock & ice) and was a tree climber for a couple years, so I thought I might have the aptitude necessary for that type of work...
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Old Jul 20, 2008 | 07:32 PM
  #45  
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what I see bit you was not having the cam sprocket / gear all the way on the cam shaft before tightening it all down. yes, it was a simple, obvious thing that you needed to do, but also it was a simple thing to overlook.
don't beat yourself up over it. I blew up an engine because I couldn't remember how much oil I put in it at the last oil change and ended up adding 5 quarts too much oil.
you learn by making mistakes, and making mistakes makes you question your actions. and confirmation comes with learning.

sheesh, now I'm sounding like some yoda or something, but with proper grammar.
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Old Jul 20, 2008 | 07:36 PM
  #46  
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well, tower climbing is kind of like trusting your entire life to a seat belt. yeah, I know people do it every day, trusting their seatbelt...

...but there is something about actually having to do it because you're 150 feet in the air and the only thing keeping you up there, keeping you from falling, is a 2" wide nylon strap. and having to trust that strap and your ability to tie knots makes you question who you are. I don't mean that in a religious sort of way, but when a knot means you will live or die, not get stuck in a mud hole or get out of it, it's just different.
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Old Jul 20, 2008 | 07:40 PM
  #47  
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I totally agree. That pin on the distributor gear being out surely didn't help matters. When I went to seat it, it was actually pretty hard, even with pliers. Also, I think I did fail to tighten the cam bolt down enough.

Ouch about the oil...that is almost as bad as what I did...thinking I had changed the oil, and then realizing that it had been a year (about 9000 miles). Oops.

I dig the advice....might have to quote that!
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Old Jul 20, 2008 | 07:42 PM
  #48  
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Yes indeed...trusting knots (and yourself) is different. When I first started climbing I did a real stupid manuever and was rappelling without equal ends of the rope and I rapped right through the short end and grabbed onto the cliff and had to climb back up to the short end of the rope...and I was close to 300' off the ground...makes you think a bit.

Does it pay well?
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Old Jul 20, 2008 | 07:50 PM
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uncertified climbers start at about 12 an hour, and can make a few bucks more if certified for tower rescue through commtrain or other agencies... and can make yet more if knowledgeable of other aspects of cellular tower and other facilities construction, such as coaxial cable connector installation and testing, and civil construction.
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Old Jul 20, 2008 | 07:52 PM
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and we don't climb or rappel without conclusive and complete safety apparatus in place.
recreational climbing is one thing, occupational climbing is another.
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 08:31 AM
  #51  
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and the verdict is....bent valves. Mechanic says it will be $1850...for a new head, headgasket & timing chain
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 08:56 AM
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Holy crap, that's a lot. You really consider getting the parts and putting them on yourself. I think you could do it for half that. With some pics and help you could do it. It doesn't require much more than doing the timing chain and you already know what not to do on that.
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 08:58 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by axekick
Holy crap, that's a lot. You really consider getting the parts and putting them on yourself. I think you could do it for half that. With some pics and help you could do it. It doesn't require much more than doing the timing chain and you already know what not to do on that.
I would agree, if you've done the timing chain, then redoing the rest is a peice of cake!!
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 09:21 AM
  #54  
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that is what I am thinking...maybe someone in WA can help....or if anyone has crash's email address/phone maybe I could get a quote for a 2.7L swap...or if someone has a 2LT hanging around let me know!
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 10:10 AM
  #55  
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You have a good motor. For the estimate you got you can easily get a built head with a performance cam and another timing kit and still afford a new header and still have money left over. It's not more than you can handle and the performance increase will surprise you.

I can see putting it in the shop for convenience sake, but you should consider what upgrades you can do yourself for that kind of money.

I don't even think I spent that much getting a shortblock, head rebuild, timing kit and new injectors. Of course I spent a lot of time putting it together myself but that was a couple years ago and I'm still enjoying my truck everyday.

Good luck though. Whatever you decide to do.
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 11:38 AM
  #56  
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on the working on it myself note...what do you suggest for parts that I use? I guess I will start the research phase about 22re rebuilds/performance...just curious who you used and what parts you replaced.

Thanks!

Jeremy
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 11:44 AM
  #57  
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sorry about the outcome.
maybe get in touch with http://engnbldr.com/
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 11:58 AM
  #58  
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yeah-I am a bit sad that I picked up my wrenches
But it was/is a learning experience. The problem my wife and I are having is several fold...thinking about kids (yikes!), possibly a house, etc. The kids thing would mean that they wouldn't fit in the truck...but a 4runner or FJ would work. I think the cheapest route for me at this point is to either find a junker motor and drop it in, or re-build what I have. Once it is running we can make the decision to sell if we want or keep it. The rest of the truck is in okay shape...rear brakes need some work as they bind, and it has some rust issues (some in the cab which sucks). But other than that everything seems okay.

I will email Ted later today and see what he has to offer for parts. I am guessing that I need-new head, new valves, might as well throw in a new cam...hmm headers?

I will do some searching and see what is involved with this next phase....
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 12:06 PM
  #59  
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new head... maybe, depends on a lot, but you don't lose much money on a head exchange. cam- definitely replace .
engnbldr's 'streetrv' head is $467 assembled, minus cam, and cam is 88 more (according to website), +30 shipping... gaskets cost extra.
much, much less than 1800+ your mechanic quoted.
maybe ask how much the mechanic would charge to install the head for you if you provide the head?
just don't tell him how much you're paying for the head. ~585 with new cam (gaskets extra)

Last edited by abecedarian; Jul 23, 2008 at 12:08 PM.
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 12:11 PM
  #60  
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So, essentially, I would need to strip the motor down & remove the old head, put a new gasket on, and ted's replacement head, and put it all back together and it would be done? simple as that huh? :-)

Yeah...given the shape of the cam...I think it would be good to replace that too!!

I recall reading about replacing the head bolts with ARP ones...necessary or no?
I guess it wouldn't hurt to ask how much the mechanic would charge to just install the head...but I would need to get it towed there and back ($100) round trip.
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