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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

22re not running questions

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Old Feb 17, 2015 | 05:05 PM
  #21  
andrewtexas123's Avatar
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I got the bolt under the cam gear which other ones do you think I missed? anything on the back of the block or under rockers?
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Old Feb 17, 2015 | 10:04 PM
  #22  
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Alright I got the head off and have started cleaning it. There is a decent amount of scoring in two of the cylinders I attached a couple of pics. So i need to rebuild bottom end and get the cylinders honed right? I am cleaning the block and head to see if anything is warped. What else should I look for..
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Thanks everyone!!!
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Old Feb 17, 2015 | 10:27 PM
  #23  
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Thanks RJR, I was wondering if I should of used 5th or 1st gear. I was thinking first would do a better job of holding it at the time. Not sure why they have to be torqued so tight.

Last edited by Terrys87; Feb 17, 2015 at 11:53 PM.
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Old Feb 17, 2015 | 10:45 PM
  #24  
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From: Anderson Missouri
It looks as if you are going to need to bore it now with those scores. Your cost just went up quite a bit as you need to pay for a bore and new pistons. Ask a few of your part store clerks which machine shop they would recommend, they will usually know. Finding a good shop will tell you what all is needed to be done.

Looking at the head will not necessarily tell you the head is warped. You can try using a straight edge to see but you are dealing with thousandths of an inch. You will need a machine shop to check it. I had a head that I thought was cracked and it was carbon. Had another I thought was carbon and it was a hair line crack. Literally a hair line crack is the size of a hair and can be easily over looked.

Is there any scoring on the bearings on your rod caps? Some other signs I would be looking for to see if any bottom damage. That will give you an idea if you are going to need some machine work on the crankshaft. Visual checks just give you an idea of what is going to need to work. To see how far things are out, you need micrometers and other specialty tools.

3 or 4 good quality tote bins with lids is a good way to keep things organized and all together while doing your motor. One tote bin for the block, crank, and pistons is strong enough to carry it around and store it while waiting for other things such as parts. You can write on the lid some information you may need to know. Clean and repair each item as you go and keeps nuts, bolts and the parts to where they belong. Makes reassembly easier in my opinion.

Last edited by Terrys87; Feb 17, 2015 at 11:55 PM.
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 07:30 AM
  #25  
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Thank you so much Terrys87 a lot of good information.

I pulled the motor out two days ago and I'm currently looking for a used motor and wait and rebuild this one when I have more time and money.

I have one lead on a used motor for $350. I'm gonna check it out on Monday its a re-manufactured motor from Japan but he's unsure on the condition. It's in the truck I will get to hear it run. (I'm just getting the block and head) What are some tests you would do if you were in my position? I was told the rockers are a little noisy what does that indicate? It's never been smoged in Cali should I worry about that? Will my emissions system mount up to the new block?

Thanks guys I'm learning a lot every day!

Andrew

Last edited by andrewtexas123; Feb 20, 2015 at 07:50 AM.
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 05:56 PM
  #26  
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Rocker noise means the cam is toast. pull the valve cover before you buy. Check top of cam lobes where the valve opens. Bet you see wear tracks from cheap oil. Really no savings there, might as well overhaul what you have and put it on a credit card. Be cheaper in the long run than buying someone else's worn out junk.

You could offer him half, and just do the head on it. Delta cams in Tacoma can refurb the cam & rockers. No out for a song and a dance. Everything out there is old and worn out.
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