91 toyota p/u with a dead #2cyl HELP!!!! Does anyone have any ideas I recently bought a rebuild kit I was going to do a rebuild but wants to get more opinions before I tear down

 

How many miles on the engine?
May be just a burned valve.
Much easier to do a valve job than an engine rebuild.

 

330+k
I traded a car system so realy dont know history but it got a new timing about 2 years ago new head gasket. am i able to check to see if it is a burnt valve

 

Do a compression check. Then put a tablespoon of oil in the cylinder and do it again. If the numbers are still low after you put the oil in the cylinder it's the valves, if they go up its the rings that are bad.

 

I did wet and dry test #3 &#4 was 140 each time and #1 at first was like 60 or so and #2 was 20. On wet check #1 was 140 and #2 was 20

 

Your #1 needs rings and your #2 needs rings and valve based on what you posted. Your going to have to rebuild it.

 

That was i was going to do just trying to get lil more info on it that helps alot i got a kit with rings gasket set timing chain kit rod bearings and main bearings and valve seals

 

You might need the block bored out is its bad enough. Then you'll need new pistons and bigger rings. Have you rebuilt an engine before?

 

No kinda new at a full rebuid,but i do got a buddy who has and a shop who is going to help. But i dont have a very big time frame was hoping might not be that bad and just do rings and valve seals and all the bearings

 

the 22r/re/ret series motors are very good to learn on. very forgiving motor if you make some mistakes here and there. As long as you have a good manual and a helping hand that knows some stuff you will do just fine with the rebuild

 

So i was going to bye a new cyl head at first but i didnt do that a just got rebuild kit. anything else i should probly do?

 

Highly recommend pulling the motor and sending it to a shop to get it checked hot tanked and they can do any required machine work that needs to be done. If you don't have the time and money to do that like i didn't clean absolutely everything you can. Gasket remover works really well to remove built up carbon deposits and get a metal straight edged ruler and some feeler gauges check the mating surfaces to make sure they are flat. If you can slide a feeler gauge between the ruler and the block surfaces then it needs to be decked. Make sure the shop machines the block with the timing cover on so everything matches up when you put it back together. Go pick up a haynes or chiltons manual they are very well detailed and will walk you through a rebuild step by step. You can never over research it. Most of all, take your time don't rush and double check everything. Take lots of pictures, not only to post up on here but also for reference points when you put it back together, one vacuum hose put in the wrong place and you could chase a problem for days trying to figure it out.

I have heard of guys putting the head on a block that isn't completely flat and have not had any problems. IT IS HIGHLY NOT RECOMMENDED YOU DO THIS. it would suck to put everything back together and then have to do it all over again.

 

Thanks for the info

 

No problem! any and all questions you have surely can be answered on here using the search function or simply asking, lot of helping hands on here!

 

have you tried doing a leak down test? its a simple test check, you put pressure on the cylinder in tdc you want to check and listen for air if its coming from intake your intake valve is bad, if its coming from your exhaust its your exhaust valve, and if you hear air escaping from the oil cap hole its piston rings.

 

I have pulled valve cover off and I have crank the motor by hand and I can hear air coming from the bottom out of timing chain area could not hear any air coming from any of the valves

 

So i pulled motor and now going to rebuild found why no compression on cyl #2 blown exhaust valve

 

looks good, at least good for 5hp!

all joking aside, damn! at least you could get away with just doing the valves, but since the motors apart, might as well do it all

 

If you have the motor out then you might as well rebuild the whole thing, not just the head. You WILL regret it later when you have to yank the motor to do the lower end. Check out my 22R rebuild in my signature - it'll give you a good idea of everything you're getting yourself into but keep in mind that I wasn't just rebuilding. I restoring my truck so I did a lot of clean up which extended the rebuild time a great deal. The 22R and the 22RE are the same basic rebuild. Send your head, block, crank and rods to a machine shop all at once for machine work. The machine shop will hot tank everything, cut and grind your valve seats, install new valve guides, resurface the head, bore and hone your cylinders, grind and polish your crank, press in and hone your new rod bushings, deck your block (Make sure you give them your timing cover when they deck your block or your head gasket will leak), press in new freeze plugs, hone your crank journals/caps and I'm sure a few other things that I am neglecting right now. When you get them back, you can easily assemble the long block in a day or two. Just grab some good high quality assembly lube and go step by step in the FSM and you can't go wrong.