Thanks for all your help BLKNBLU!!!!!!
Sorry if I'm being unclear at all, quite new to this.
I am for sure doing the HG!
As for the timing chain I think I will hold off on that. however, I did look today under the valve cover and noticed that I have plastic guide rails for the chain.
Can I JUST change the guides or would it be just as much work as changing the chain as well?
And as for that bolt where roger said using a breaker bar and hitting the starter a few times?? Is that for the timing cover?? Just want a little more clarification on that. kinda confused. Am I going to have to do that? :/

 

At work. I'll try to get you a good answer tonight.

 

I've done this and its been that way for 10 years soooo.... yea.

 

OK. I personally wouldn't worry about the rails if they appear to be in good shape. My OEMs went 125k without problems. If the rebuild has been working well for you so far and you trust the build, I would just leave it alone because yeah... you'd have to pull the timing cover off to change them out. The bolt Roger is talking about is for the timing cover. If you don't do the cover, you don't have to worry about it. You also don't have to remove the water pump if you leave the the timing cover alone. Also don't have to remove the belts or hoses or radiator or alternator or fan, but I would remove all that stuff just to get it out of your way and get more room to work. Plus you can flush the rad really good and won't hit your knuckles on it a bunch of times. It will also afford you the chance to get a good look at the water pump which as mentioned above does not need to come off but it's certainly worth a look while you're there.

 

Thanks again! So what does have to come off? I've been reading the haynes and 93 manual a lot, plus allterain17 post, but I just prefer a person over a book. I'm still going to take off the radiator etc cause it will be easier. But not the timing cover.
Also do you know symptoms of a bad timing chain or damaged rails?
Thanks once more everyone is helping out A LOT!

 

Pretty much follow the 93 manual right down the line and you should be good.

A couple variations though:
Allterrain removed his intake stuff first as per the manual. Many have removed the head with the intake stuff still attached and then pull all that stuff on the bench. That is what I did and I thought it worked well.

Regarding the intake, you can leave it assembled if you like. Look at the pic in the 93 manual of cylinder head components (pg EG1-15) The thing marked as "intake manifold" is actually the manifold, injectors, and fuel rail all assembled together. If your injectors are working fine and not leaking it might be best to leave that assembled as the injectors have O rings and grommets that are one time use items that you will have to replace if you disassemble the whole thing. (pic on pg EG1-190) On the other hand if your injectors are suspect, this is a great time to send them out to one of a couple places that will flowtest and rebuild them for you.
I used this guy and had great service
http://www.cruzinperformance.com/
Many on the board have used this place and I've never heard a bad word about them either.
http://www.witchhunter.com/

Regarding the power steering:
The bracket has to come off but not necessarily the pump. You can push it aside and tie it up to something and leave the hoses attatched, saving yourself the trouble of draining the fluid, refilling the fluid, and bleeding the system afterward.

Belts and hoses
Only the PS belt and top coolant hose "must" come off, but it's sooo worth it to remove all that stuff to give you room to work. Pull the fan and fan clutch, fan shroud, both coolant hoses (and take a hard look at that middle connecter hose while you're in there for signs of wear). Pull all the belts and inspect them for wear.

I think thats about it though I've probably forgotten something.

Non cylinder head specific things to think about while you have it torn down this far.

Water pump look OK? There is a weep hole on the bottom of it and if there is fluid coming out of it that is an indication that coolant is getting past the bearing/seal inside and the pump is on its way out.
Hoses and belts all in good condition?
Injectors OK? They're probably fine. I really only did mine "just because"
PS pump clean and dry?
Confident of your alternator? There is a place that rebuilds/tweaks them for max performance. I'd like to do mine but haven't had a convenient opportunity come up to do it yet.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...pgrade-162594/ see post #7
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-pics-140704/

Oh yeah. You'll be able to see your guide rails a little better once the head is off. If the chain is loose you would have heard some slapping especially under hard acceleration or heavy load like uphill climbs or towing.

 

I would make sure my head is flat on the mating surface, and replace the timing chain, timing guides (metal), oil pump, water pump, all new gaskets, fuel filter, fuel injector orings and gromets, and any water or vacuum hoses that look bad.
If you have 200k+ miles on the engine and you have money you might want to consider rebuilding the engine. The reason for this is because it would really suck for you to do all this work and spend all this money only to have it die in 20k-50k miles and end up rebuilding it anyways.

If you choose not to rebuild the engine I would not replace the timing cover because if your block has been decked the cover will be to tall, so be careful when you are scraping off the old gasket. If you choose to rebuild the engine I would replace the timing cover and have it decked with your block.

You will also need a torque wrench.
Which ever direction you decide to go follow the directions in the FSM. It usually has more information than Hayne's and Chilton's.

 

Much of what I'm saying is due to his statement in post #14 of this being a rebuilt engine in place X 1 1/2 years so most everything should be in decent condition. This of course assumes a good rebuild up front which only the owner can know. If it's been running well up until the overheating incident, then it's probably a good rebuild. I agree that anytime there has been an overheat or HG issue the mating surfaces need to be checked. For the rest, he is going to have to call it as he sees it.

 

FINALLY STARTED!!!!
Well I was going to try to take off the manifolds off before the head, but I am having trouble with the intake manifold. I'm pretty sure I have everything disconnected that should be before taking it off. I took of all the bolts and nuts that attach it to the head or block (whatever you wanna call it) but the thing i am concerned about is the metal pipes that connect to the intake. Not exactly sure how the intake is suppose to come off because the pipes don't budge an inch. since the intake has to come off straight because of the screws that it is on (bottom left and top right of intake)and the metal pipe has to come off its screws perpendicular to how the intake is suppose to come off,,........!!!!!....I'm stumped.
Is there something I'm forgetting or looked over??

Another thing is The spark plug stuff and distributor cap.
Am I suppose to do the TDC thing?It talks about the rocker arm and cover and it's all confusing. I'm only replacing Head Gasket. If I am can someone explain it better, cause the Haynes and 93 manual confuse me. Scared to do anything without fully understanding it.

The pic is how it's looking so far. Sorry had to use flash since it's pitch black due to my hood blocking the light

 

You should rotate your crank until the pistons are at TDC, and make sure you mark your timing chain sprocket onto the chain so you dont loose your place. Same with the camshaft, make markings as to where it is when you take the rocker arms off etc, just to make sure. Another thing to do would be to hang the sproket up by a string. Some guys have done this to make sure it doesnt skip a tooth on the bottom, I got lucky and everything matched up perfect.

Regarding the manifolds, did you take out the allen key bolt, and the two hose connectors at the center going into the bottom, and the one at the back of the manifold?

Im doing this right now and im in the process of assembling everything. make sure you scrape the all of the gaskets off and ensure that the head and the block both have immaculately clean surfaces. I used degreaser, rinsed it off and blew all of the cr*p off of the block and out of the head bolt holes. Use one of the hundreds of FSM's you can get links to on here, they helped me enourmously and this is the first time ive ever tried even doing anything this complicated. Be paitient and make sure you do everyhing right.

 

For top dead center (TDC) you want to make a mark on your distributor body that lines up with the terminal on your distributor cap that supplies the #1 piston then remove the cap and set it aside.

Use a breaker bar and a socket that fits the bolt head on the crankshaft to turn the engine with. There is a notch in the crankshaft pulley that you need to line up with the "0" mark on the timing plate. The timing plate is right on the front of the engine, right behind the crankshaft pulley. When you line up the notch and zero the distributor rotor should be pointing at the mark you made on the distributor. If instead, it is pointing at the #4 terminal, you are on the exhaust stroke for #1 and need to turn the engine one more full turn. It should then be pointing at the mark you made.

You should also see 2 shiny t chain links right on top of the camshaft pulley as well as a mark on the pulley under those shiny links.

Clear as mud?

 

I didn't use any, just what came in the kit...I'm not real keen on that stuff but it does have it's place at times.

 

What I have done, when I did mine, i used 2 zip ties to hold the chain in the cam gear and hung it from the hood with a bungee. As for the pipes make sure they are off the intake and you can loosen them from the back of the head. There will be 2 bolts holding them in. You will also need to loosen the pipes from the exhaust manifold as well to get the wiggle room. I removed everything off the head then pulled the head.

 

I also tied my stuff up to the hood, kept everything in place.
I forgot to mention in my last post to 2nd shore.runner's suggestion about the allen bolt under the fuel rail. I missed that one too, even with the head off the truck. A good pic from allterrains thread:

 

Yeah It's the allen bolt! I couldn't find it and then when I did I couldn't understand how I missed seeing it! haha. But all the allen wrenches I had were too big or too small so I'm off to the store!
Also I did get the pipes off, so this should be the last step.
As for the exhaust manifold the exhaust pipe is blocking it from coming off! Any suggestions besides taking it off with the head?

 

Check down by the tranny bell housing. It might be clamped to a brace down there. Take that off and it should move pretty freely off to the side. Be careful with it though as it's probably pretty brittle.

 

I'll try that. The allen bolt is stripped!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am almost positive it wasn't me who did it........ERRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!
Took off the fuel rail to try to use pliers to grab onto it, but the pliers don't grip well enough can't budge it at all. The bolt had grooves in it on the outside like someone made them so that they could grip it.
Any suggestions???
Does the intake mani have to come off in order for me to get to the head gasket???
Probably does

 

Okay got the intake OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WWWWWWWOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!1
Thank God for vise grips!! Gotta get a new allen bolt though. Any idea where? Local harware store??
When I took the fuel rail off the injectors came off. One of them had a black cap and the others looked like it had stayed in the hole or maybe broke off and stayed in the hole. Should I get those replaced??

So also I haven't taken the belts off (right behind the radiator fan) I just unscrew the brackets off right??

Then turn the crankshaft as described above then the rocker arm assembly????

 

oh golly i did mine the same day it happened and had it together in a few hours and back on the road.

As for the allen head bolt go to toyota or a junk yard. You don't have to strip it down to nothing, i just took the head off with everything on it cause it was easy.

Oh and follow the instructions to the T for the head bolts! If you don't ya got a huge problem and a possible messed up head.

 

That's cool. I wish I had mine all fixed in a couple of hours. Learning A LOT though, taking it nice and slow.
Is it necessary to do the tdc thing?
Can someone explain why it's suppose to be done?
And for the head removal...are all the bolts that must come off under the valve cover?
I have everything pretty much done except for the cam shaft tdc thing and anything under the valve cover.