I have an 89 pickup with 22re. Quit on me on the way home a couple days ago, just ran out of power and died just like you ran out of gas while going up the highway. Did some checking on the side of the road, had spark, would occasionally kind of start and sputter like it wasn't getting enough fuel and then die if it sat a few minutes. Called the wife and towed it home. Went out to check it out this morning, jumped the B+ to Fp in the diagnosis plug, had power to fuel pump, pulled the return line and gas poured out. So I removed the jumper wire, got in the truck and hit the starter. . . Dang thing fired right up and ran fine! So I pulled it up in the shop since it is currently sleeting out.

I suspect it is the fuel pump going and working intermittently, since I had one do this on a 95 years ago (didn't know why it would occasionally die randomly and then restart and run until the fuel pump went completely belly up one morning, so I didn't do any testing prior to fuel pump not working at all. But it is hard to say with it currently working fine. Any way I can test this or possible other issues other than drive it until it strands me again? Not really what I want to do is drive it around and wait for it to quit. Also, replacing parts without knowing they are the issue doesn't really give me a lot of confidence in reliability or knowing I've fixed the issue.

 

Could be the fuel pump, yes.
Could be the COR. Or the AFM. Or the fuel filter. Or the sock on the fuel pump.
Is it possible you got some dirty gas? Could that have clogged up the fuel filter, and/or the little sock on the fuel pump, or both?
Did you ohm the switch in the AFM to be sure it closing every time the vane opens, even just a little bit? If it is good, and doing it's job, it's a good possibility the COR is going/has gone bad on you. If you put in the jumper, and the fuel pump works normally, and you're getting good volume and pressure at the return line, then chances are very good it's the AFM or COR. Or their associated wiring. Like the ground point under the right kick panel, and so on.
Not the pump, sock, or filter.
It could be you had a little clog some place, and during all you messing around, it got "blown out"? Just a thought.

My money is on the COR, or wiring. Just ne, though.
Pat☺

 

Yes worked fine with the jumper in. Unfortunately it also worked fine without the jumper after I took it out, which isn't really helpful for an idiot like me to diagnose. Makes me pretty sure it is electrical, since mechanical broken things don't fix themselves and are seldom intermittent. But I already was pretty sure it was electrical (possibly the pump could have been mechanically bad, but it is an electric pump so even if its the pump I suspected the electrical part of it). Yes it is possible I got dirty gas, but not to my knowledge, and I had just filled the tank out of my spare tank. Which is gravity fed into the stock tank through an inline filter, which looks good, doesn't look like it has water or crud in it.

How exactly do you test the COR? And if the truck is currently running will it test good even if it is going bad?

 

You can check the COR by pulling it out and doing the ohm checks as specified in the FSM. Essentially, you ohm the coil out and the various contacts. If you can read a schematic, it's a very easy set of checks.
I can post the page from the FSM that concerns this, if you need it.

I really do feel it might be either the COR, or an associated ground. Check your grounds. You should any way. The get dirty, and you get differential metal corrosion under them pretty easily. That means the 4 in the engine compartment, and 2 in the cabin, under the kick panels. I suspect that perhaps, when you jumpered it, and then started it, if you had contacts in the COR that were developing a little crud on them, as relay contacts tend to over time, and it got knocked loose enough when the truck started and ran to allow everything to work correctly again. I've seen stranger things in my years as a radar tech.
Last but not least, probably a redundant check, but make sure the switch that activates the COR in the AFM is making correctly when the vane opens at all. Easy, quick check to do. Again, take a look in the FSM for exactly what pins to check. Again, I can post the FSM page if you need.

Good luck,
Pat☺

 

Yes I would appreciate the FSM page. I have a Chilton but don't think it has that info in it (not where I can check the Chilton right now)

 

You can see what the pins on the COR to ohm out.



The AFM above. Check Fc to E1. Should ohm infinity when the AFM vane is closed, and read short when the vane is open, even very slightly.

The COR in particular:

The schematic

How to check the COR

Hope all this is some help...
Pat☺

 

Here's how 22RE Circuit Opening Relay Works: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52387681
I tend to suspect connections before I suspect Toyota components. I.e., if water from windshield or gutter leak or leak where antenna enters cabin on right side inner fender gets to C.O.R. it could cause corrosion.

Fuel Pump Failure:
I am also interested in fuel pump topic because I'd like to know:
1) Whether people have had warning signs of FP failure (like intermittent stalling, low fuel pressure) or fuel pump simply died all of a sudden,and
2) At what mileage/age do they typically fail?

Fuel Pump Sock:
I wonder if advisable to open the system and inspect/clean the "sock". I have a 4Runner so there is easy access to that. However, would I need to order non-reusable part?

 

you should be able to replace the sock without purchasing any other parts. the cover seal is reusable rubber, and no other parts are "one use only" for the fuel pump assembly.


when a pump is headed to failure, my experience varies. several had dwindling pressure over a relatively short time, a few just quit, and maybe two had intermittent running issues, where the 22re would run horrilby/hiccup for miles, and then go days without issue. pressure gauge verified low pressure problem. 22re will run on 20 psi, but it won't run well.

 

When my pump went last year there was no warning. I had driven it to work in the morning problem free, then when I went to leave work at the end of the day it wouldn't fire up. Removed the supply side of the filter and jumped the diagnostic port to activate the pump, couldn't hear it running and only a slow dribble of fuel came out of the line. Replaced the pump, cleaned the sock because I didn't get a new one, and replaced the fuel filter because I had one side disconnected anyway(yes I used new crush washers guys ).

 

My 4Runner's fuel pump is still going great, so I'm not much help. I HAVE had a COR fail on me, though.
It just quit on me one day. I looked it up in FSM as above. I put the jumper in, and the fuel pump ran good, and the truck started, idled, and even revved up normally. I tested the AFM switch, it worked fine, so it was the COR, in my mind. After instructing the Toyota dealership on just where to find the COR, what it looked like, where in the truck it was, and just what it did, in their little pictures, they actually had one in stock, it turned out. Packaging was dusty as heck, which tells me something.
Anywho, installed the new (!) COR, and LO! Everything working fine again.

Just my experience.
Pat☺

 

Thanks @wallytoo and Pat (@2ToyGuy )! May I know approx mileage when your pumps failed?

Posting Alexman Videos' R&R procedure here for easy reference. He used Denso PN 950-0150. He never fails to give fellow members knowledge and courage to do things ourselves!

 

i used several brands, including denso. some failed at about 100 miles, one failed after 15 seconds, might have had a few fail at about 700 miles. i believe the issue with the failures is due to the original pump chewing itself up and introducing a load of metal filings into the fuel line between the pump and filter. the filings would eventually backwash to the pump, and help chew up the new pump. after pump 7 or 8 in a few months, i pulled the lines and used compressed air to blow them out, used brakeclean down the lines, and then replaced the filter (again), and installed a new pump, which has been running since 2016, right before i went on my coast to coast to coast trip of 8500 miles in 31 days. same pump still running today, 35 or 40k miles later. the original lasted for over 25 years to about 145 or 150k miles.

edit: records indicate i last changed the fuel pump on 2-10-2016 at 140,700 miles. truck today has 199,400 miles on it. previous pump went 500 miles. before that 1900 miles. 400 miles. 5000 miles. 3000 miles. etc. there were a few that i didn't record because they died so quickly. original pump replaced @ 110,000 miles on 3-14-2014.

changing the pump is relatively easy. i've done it on the side of the road, in early March, when the temp was 5* F. sucked only because i had just filled the tank with fuel about 7 miles previously, so a lot of gas fumes, but i got it done, since by that time i had a spare pump with me (and still have the same one since 2016 as a spare, just forward of the driver side roll-bar forward mount.

 

Well tested the COR. Once I figured out how to operate the multimeter and replaced the EFI fuse I blew by using the multimeter to short the hot wire to COR. . . duh! It tested within the specs (mid range, 22 for STA-E1 and 108-111 for +B-Fc) Of course right now the truck runs fine sitting here, but I assume resistance on the COR would be bad even so. Connections all look good, so I'm back to thinking it is the fuel pump.

That was very helpful 2Toyguy, Thanks.

 

I had a great time tracking down an intermittent fuel issue. Like the kind of fun that pumps 17 gallons of gas onto the garage floor. Moral don't short pump get frustrated and go take a break while pump is shorted out, after all it was a intermittent issue.

I tested and tested.

In the end there was a damaged wire in wiring harness between passenger seat that goes through floor runs along frame to pump and sender. sheathing was damaged on pump power wire and wire strands inside were heavily corroded. Pump was getting power but not enough voltage. so less than a $.50 fix except I damaged pump holder to soft fuel line. That was spendy. Replaced pump with a Aisin, well test light said pump was getting power. Moral voltmeter is better for such work over test light.

Loads of colorful words were heard in the garage during course of finding the fix.

 

I'm so thankful you didn't get torched or burn your house down.
I'm glad you found your problem and got it fix, even if it took some colorful language.
THANK YOU for posting your outcome!

 

Yes, thanks for letting us know what the real culprit was

I'm very glad there wasn't a fire problem. Fuel all over the floor is a dangerous thing indeed! It's the reasoning behind the COR.
Colorful language is an entirely different subject. That seems to stay around forever. Especially when the wife hears it. They have LONG memories.
So do kids. They can't remember their spelling words for the week, but they hear a "bad" word once, they remember it for years.

Did you put a grommet in the hole the wire go through, where they had rubbed? If not, the wires will rub again...
Good luck!
Pat☺

 

Well you do know about fools and idiots😂. But yes, very fortunate.

Being as the factory routing of wires got damaged to begin with I rerouted and through cabin and did grommet/loom/tape harness. Have also had plug at passenger seat to pump harness get fouled with water. Easy trail fix but just another reason I don’t like mud holes and playing in big water when avoidable.

kids and bad words; with 2 of 3 moved out and onto their adventures they both cuss like a grunt. No idea where they get it from🤔🧐 it happens.

 

Best price I see online for Denso 950-0150 is on CARIDdotCOM.
Do u guys think it's a good vendor? Any experience?
TIA.

 

i've ordered a few times from them. received the correct parts each time. decent pricing/shipping.

 

Okay, finally getting back, because I just got the right pump yesterday. Well it is a Napa one and it doesn't fit quite right and had to cut the wires and splice them because original comes with studs sticking out of top of pump and the aftermarket Napa one has wires in a plug so you have to splice, so I'm not real happy with that. Of course first pump I got wasn't the right one, the local Napa is usually great at getting the right parts (half-owner worked at Toyota garage for 20 years) but they were drinking beer at the counter right at closing time when I went in the first time and they ended up giving me one for a 22R instead of a 22RE. Really fought getting the high pressure line loose, ended up putting a 3 foot cheater pipe on the wrench holding the solid end that goes into tank to be able to hold it and not bend/break it. However, I put it in and it didn't work. Had power to the plug at top of the tank but the pump wouldn't kick on. Took the pump back out and tried it direct to battery and it works. Finally figured out that there is a crack in the silicone/rubber on the top of the pump assembly that covers the positive wire connection, and underneath that wire was ate off by the deicer crap they spray on the roads any more.

So now I get to figure out how to fix that.