prayharder

Hello,

I have a 1990 22RE Pickup 4x4, that I bought last fall. I knew that it had a problem, but I bought it cheap enough that I could do some work on it.

It made/makes a bad knocking/tapping sound from the engine. I adjusted the valves and it is better but still there. The engine has 274000 miles on it, and as far as I know it has never been rebuilt.

Also, the bigger problem is it overheats. I am getting exhaust into my water jacket somewhere. It super heats my coolant and evaporates it and causes the engine to overheat. I don't know if it is my head gasket, head or block that is the problem. I assume that it is a head and head gasket. I only live about 7 blocks from work (small town) and was waiting till I could ride my motorcycle to work and around before I tore into it. Now that time has arrived.

So, now I need to know if I should just get a new complete head (with or with out a RV Cam, not sure which one to get or what difference it would make.) Get a normal rebuilt head with a stock Cam or ??? I have rebuilt engines before, so I am not scared to get dirty or have to mic stuff to check for bearing size.

I expect to buy a complete rebuild kit after I get it torn down and see what size I need for things.

What should I do about the head? and noise from the valves/cam? how do I know when they are too warn to use again?

Should I be scared that my block is cracked? Is that common on 22REs?

What are your thought on a RV Cam vs a Stock Cam and what duration of lift would be better for a RV Cam???

Thanks for all your help!!!!!


Ben

toyota4x4907

How do you know exhaust gases are getting into the coolant system? Are you running less than 50/50 mix of coolant-water? Coolant/anti-freeze not only lowers the freezing point of water, but also increases the boiling point. So running less than 50/50 coolant/water respectively (i.e., 40/60 coolant/water) would could result in it boiling, thus overheating.
These engines (22r(e)) are notorious for loud valve clatter, especially with high miles. Try adjusting the valves slightly tighter than spec, like .007" intake and .011" exhaust. Can you determine if the knocking noise is coming from the top or bottom of the engine? Do you maybe have a sound clip?

prayharder

When it first overheated on me after I got it I only had coolant to put into it, so it was like 70/30 coolant/water. Awhile after that I bought a new thermostat, and did a back flush of the cooling system, drained the radiator, then filled with new coolant/water at 60/40.

When I check the coolant it is under a lot of pressure, so much so that it sounds like a hose sprayed into the reserve. It is white foamy in the radiator untill it cools down and the pressure is gone.

I don't have a sound clip as of yet, I'll try to get one, but it will be a while.

As far as the valves, I haven't tried tightening them tighter, I will try that, although I am certain that it is the top end. I know that it is not the injectors making the noise.

Thanks so much for the quick reply.

Ben

toyota4x4907

it should be under pressure. Around 15 psi I believe. You should wait for it to cool off before opening the radiator cap. Thats probably why its like "spraying" under a lot of pressure back into the reservoir tank. My '93 would would do that if I opened it still under pressure.

How does the oil look? is it black/dark brown? Usually with a failed HG you get coolant in the oil and oil in the coolant. Coolant in the oil looks like a milkshake sorta. You can send your coolant into 'somewhere' ( dont know exactly) to get it tested for signs of exhaust gases. AFAIK, its like $20 something. You will have to search around here for all the info. Also, does it billow white smoke out the exhaust? That can be another indication of a failed HG. Have you tried a compression and/or leak down test?

prayharder

The oil is actually okay. That is why I am thinking that it is a head or block problem. And the coolant doesn't have any oil in it really. It is kinda slimy, but so is anti-freeze. It is frothy though, and I have lost a gallon or more at one time (when it was about 10 degrees F out side) So, I know that I do indeed have a problem. I do get some white smoke out the tail pipe, but not a whole bunch. It does smell sweet like coolant. And the cap is under much more than 15 psi, not sure what but much more, and I can wait a long time several hours later and it is still under a bunch of pressure.

I answered the leak down/compression test in the last post. Also, I borrowed a friends test set, so to do it again, I will have to borrow it again, which is fine, just not something I can do right now.

Thanks for the help,
Ben

prayharder

Sorry man,
I didn't end up getting the leakdown/compression in there...I just dreamed I did.

I haven't down the Leak down test yet. I did do the compression test and it was 140 on three of them and 170 on one.

Ben

Dirt Driver

At this point you might consider rebuilding the whole thing or getting another engine/rebuilt longlbock. Those three 140psi cylinders are a bit low and the the 170 makes them a lot more than 10% apart. It could be that the gasket is popped between all three, it could be the head, or it could be the rings.

If having an assembled engine core is not a concern, I would pull the head and see what's wrong. You have a BHG at the very least, but getting a leakdown test will give you a better idea of what condition the rest of the engine is in.

iselloil

Check with mike at sunwest engines, medical lake WA

toyota4x4907

Haha. I didn't see the leak down test, so I was kind of confused confused Which three were at 140? I would say given the high mileage and the problems, if you have the money, you might as well rebuild it even if its not a bad HG. But it does sound like the symptoms... You'll probably have to get the head and block resurfaced since it has overheated a number of times. Thats likely to warp the head. good luck and keep us posted.

whokrz

Rebuild your engine.