Normally i wouldnt post but I'm on a wheeling trip and not near my fsm.

86 pickup 4x4 22re automatic

problem
truck will fire and start, stay running for a few seconds then die and not start again.

I jumped the terminals to test for codes and am getting a code 11 which points to the tps.

The truck was running fine yesterday and now wont start at all.
I want to remove the throttle body to test the tps but before I do that is there anything I can test before that?

All fuses are good

New fuel pump, new fuel lines, new fuel filter, new air filter as well. Egr deleted, and has been gone for 6 months with no issues.

id really like to get this figured out since I'm not even close to home and trying to have a good time wheeling.
thanks for the help.

 

Normally I would say check your TPS to make sure its properly adjusted but since you havent been fooling with it at all can you pull your TPS to ensure that its mechanically ok and properly springig closed when the throttle body closes?

 

So heres an update on what I've done.

I got code 11.

Went through and check the ecu, all plugs and wires from ecu to the tps.
Everything checks out.
Fuses relays and resistors check out as well.
All engine grounds check out.

So I checked the tps.
Found the tps to be faulty.
Bought a new one, installed, checked, and adjusted properly.
now codes are gone.
gost getting a single code for normal

Still wont start.

I'm at a loss on what to check next.

 

Basically the truck turns on, runs for a few seconds and dies. I cant push the gas to keep it going, nothing. It just dies and wont start.

 

Ever?

I assume you can cycle the key, and go through "starts-runs a few seconds-dies" again.

That's the classic sign of a VAF-COR issue. Jumper FP to B+ https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTr...CheckConnector With key-on, that forces the pump to run (I can hear my pump while standing at the diagnostic port). If that "solves" your problem, you're getting close. Take out the jumper, with key-on, push the vane in the VAF with your finger. That should start the fuel pump. Work your way through the COR and wiring until you find what you need to fix.

Don't drive around with the jumper in. If you get in an accident that breaks a fuel line, you want the pump to shut off instantly.

 

thanks for the input.

I'll Look into that this weekend when I get back home and give an update.
the information on this site is invaluable.

 

All good advice given and would try the advice mentioned above. Dumb question though, Did you cross check that your new TPS had the exact same numbers as the one you took off? I believe Toyota used multiple different TPS in the same model year.

 

Code 11 is the idle contacts open, or AC switch closed, while in diagnostics mode.. None of these are going to keep the engine from starting or staying running once the engine fires up. The ECU is actively ignoring all of the sensor inputs during cranking and start up until the engine sustains > 500 rpm at which point the ECU takes over the igt (ignition trigger) signal and starts looking for feedback on igf (ignition fired) from the igniter. Even at this point the ECU is only going to set a code, if it doesn't see igf responding to igt, and the igniter will keep firing based on the distributor NE signal..

Classic starts runs dies like scope mentioned is usually a fuel pump/relay issue. The code and your tps are red herring..

 

I did end up getting a code 7 as well and had a bad tps in the mix. But I will be checking the fuel pump/relay later today and reporting back with findings.
Thank you guys so much

 

Okay heres an update.
I checked all fuses tonight again, everything is good.
Jumped the fp and b terminals and have power to the pump.
removed jumper wire
Pulled small wire on starter
turned key to on...I hear no clicking from the COR on the passenger side.
reinstalled starter wire
Installed fp and b jumper
tested COR and everything tests within spec. I tested the plug for the COR and am getting proper signal.
Tested the resistance on the COR and everhthing is within spec. One terminal had a little trouble reading which makes me suspect.
Main relay was tested and is good.
I checked all the pins for the afm and was within spec.

I do plan to re test the afm as it got dark on me and I rushed through a few of the readouts. Will probably have another update sunday.

my starter is also either going bad or just sick of me clicking it over and over between tests lol.

The truck starts, will run for a bit longer than before although it's a very rough and tumble idle. Then will die again.

So I feel like I'm making progress.

I also tested the resistor on the passenger side fender and that was out of spec or got no readouts. Would that cause this non running issue?

 

So many details left out here!

Let's start at the top.

"Checked fuses" how, why, and under what conditions?

"Jumped FP..", you say you have power to the fuel pump, how did you determine you have power (power=volts*amps!) There are two wrong answers here that come to mind and one of them is at least better than the other. You heard the pump running, is partially acceptable. You had the pump wire unplugged from the harness and read battery voltage with your meter, is bad. This tells you nothing about the power applied to the pump.

" pulled solenoid wire ", this is a flawed test just because it clicks doesn't mean it can handle the power load (remember, power=volts*amps)

" tested COR and..." Details!

"Tested the plug.." Unloaded circuit tests only tell you the wire isn't completely severed. (Are you seeing a theme yet?)

"Resistance test...one signal had trouble..." This completely invalidates all your previous readings with your multi-meter, and gives no details. (Why, because we way over here on the other side of the internet need to trust you can make solid connection and not slip up and touch the probe for one reason.)

Your electrical system, specifically the starter system and the fusible link have a very low duty cycle for crank time which I'm to lazy to.go dig out right now. This is something like 30s on and a 5min cool down period from memory, basically about 10% on time. You'll over heat the brushes or melt the fuse wire, both of these are bad and one of them will cost you a $100 and a lot of wasted time!

...
"The truck starts, will run for a bit longer than before although it's a very rough and tumble idle. Then will die again."

Need details here, the most important one is are you doing this with the FP line jumpered or .. ?

Just willy-nilly pulling things apart, touching wire harnesses in general, is a bad test method. You need to start with visual inspecting what the harness might be touching and noting down these spots, typically this is important for short circuits but it's also relevant for wires damaged internal to the harness and water intrusion.

Now you want to do noninvasive tests like probing the Fuel pump diagnostics terminal (FP) with your test light when you're cranking the engine over. Once that's done you want to back probe as close to the fuel pump as you can, on the 4runner there is a hatch under the rear seat and on the truck the connector is on the frame rail directly behind the cab, with your test light to ensure its getting power (power=volts*amps). Reading just voltage doesn't tell you if 19 out of 20 of the wire strands are broken but trying to run a load like you test light will tell you "hey bro I can't provide that much power".

This isn't a guarantee, since your test light only draws a few Watts at best if it's an incandescent bulb and barely anything at all if it's LED. You can step this up a bit more by using a headlight bulb but you need to be aware of the current capacity of the fuse to pick.between your head lamp or marker light..


I've rambled long enough. The more details you give the better equipped people are to help!

 

I see what you're saying and will try to provide some better information.

When testing the electrical I am using a test light that lights up and makes an audible noise when there is current/voltage.
Then using the voltmeter to measure volts/amps and doing the corresponding resistance tests via the links provided. Im back home now with my fsm and can do the tests provided in the fsm.

I run a fuel cell with an external fuel pump that is the exact same gpm and fpr as the stock pump. I can audibly hear the pump a running as well as watch the fuel return to the tank via the return line. I've also pulled the pump and put power to it to see it pulling gas through.

I'll report back with more accurate info and possibly videos this weekend