Members,

I'm slowly putting a 22RE-C back together after 4 years of interruptions. Thanks for your help so far.

My next impasse is what I think is the air pump pipe to the exhaust manifold. I've attached photos to this note. I wish I could learn how to embed images in this window like you veterans do. I've attached the pipe to the manifold OK but I don't remember there being an air pump on the truck. It's an '86 4WD pick up. I've looked all around in my boxes of parts and I just don't see one. If anyone here has a truck of similar vintage, please post a photo so I'll know what it is I'm looking for. The flange points towards the back of the engine.







Thanks
DSLee

 

I am going to search my pictures.....give me a few minutes.

re-c??? is that going to be different?

and is the bottom pic upside down, I assume so.

Photobucket account is probably best for posting pics.....I could help you once you create one , but for now let me check my pics...

 

see if this helps........

 

and this

 

These might help

 

to me, it looks like you are missing the 2nd, fully metal tube seen as the bottom tube on my 2nd pic.

 

cavalry's here.......

I LOVE your pics OLHARLY...

 

Hey Olharleyman,

Great job on the motor. I like the Chevrolet Orange color.

I have the secondary pipe [from a donor motor] but there's nothing to attach it to. I'm really missing something here.



I lightened up your photo a bit and added some text. Wow! I'm really confused with this. I have air pump port blocking plates. I'm wondering if I should just block the ports and not worry about it. Do you know if an '86 22RE-C had an air pump? How can I find out?

Regards,
DSLee

 

No air pump- they used a "Pulsed Air Injection Reaction" system which is basically a reed valve located under the intake and accomplishes the same thing. Exhaust pulses travel across the manifold (the pipe you're trying to figure out what it's for) and that creates a vacuum in that pipe, like how blowing over the top of a soft-drink straw causes the soft-drink to climb up the straw. Air is drawn through the PAIR reed valve (you might see it referenced in service manuals as an "AS Reed Valve" or similar) and is sucked into the exhaust thus eliminating the need for the old air / smog pumps.

 

OK Abecedarian,

That which you have written make perfect sense. The problem remains that I can find no such "Pulsed Air Injection Reaction" system on my rebuild's EFI housing. I can see it clearly on the 'donor' just as in the photo you provided but there is no provision for it on the rebuild and I never had the foresight to photograph it before I disassembled it.

Right now, I'm waiting for the place to warm up and I'll go back down and check some more. Of this I am sure; one motor had the air ports blocked and one didn't. I guess it stands to reason that, if the 'donor' motor has the "Pulsed Air Injection Reaction" system than my original one did not. The question remains, where did the second air tube come from? I'm so confused.........

 

It is actually Chrysler Red and not Bow Tie Orange as for the part itself it is part of the vacuum system and it is called the pressure regulator per Toyota

 

OK friends, here's the deal. I used the 'donor' exhaust manifold because the last guy had broken off two of the heat shield screws in the original one. In doing so, I double crossed myself and used the exhaust air tube as well thinking my original motor had one as well. Upon further review it appears that my original 22RE-C had NO provision for air input if you can believe that.

So I've removed the pipe and install the port blocking plates. I'm sorry for all the confusion.

Next: I have Champion #RN12MC4's and not a clue what to gap them at. I can't find a Champion gap chart on the WEB so, does anyone know what it is supposed to be?

 

champions are for lawn mowers
The best gap for them is between your hand and the garbage
Go get Nippon Denso it will make all difference in the world on how it runs

 

Thank you for the advise Mr. Olharleyman. I'm an American and I buy American whenever I can. Champions are the only plugs that held up in my stock car's Chev 350 and that's what I will always use.

 

I too am a PROUD AMERICAN and buy MADE IN THE U.S.A. whenever possible and I have a few AMERICAN only older 50's-60's vehicles(1955 Harley 1968 RS/SS CAMARO CONVERTIBLE ALL STOCK cept for the tires lol,1968 426 HEMI motor No car for it yet) and use only AMERICAN made parts on them that said your TOYOTA is not AMERICAN it is JAPANESE no matter how hard some people try to tell or convince you it is built in AMERICA that makes it AMERICAN.

There is something to the Denso's in the older TOYOTA built in JAPAN motors that they just don't like or don't have the the correct design for AMERICAN or GERMAN spark plug's. I have tried AUTO LIGHT, BOSCH , CHAMPION,SPLIT FIRE and a lot of other brands of spark plugs and for whatever reason the NIPPON/DENSO's seem to last the longest,foul the least and spark the best in these motors and you can hear and feel the difference.

 

NH ? where in NH, i lived there forever until i moved to Ca, good luck on your quest

 

No opinion is worthless to me. I try to keep an open mind .....usually.

I'm in Salisbury, New Hampshire Mr. Olharleyman

.031" it is. Thank you all again.

 

olharleyman Thanks For posting those pics it helps a ton!

 

Do you have any front view pics that you can post?