Just replaced the distributor because vacuum advancer was bad. Followed procedures for idle/timing (which was way off), and it idles beautifully now. Power seems fine also. The truck has always run hot and still is. I was hoping that the tune-up would fix it but it might actually be a little worse in freeway driving conditions.

So everything I've read leads me to believe that I have a circulation problem. I have no coolant leaks, and I don't hear any strange sounds from the water pump. I put in a new thermostat and the upper hose is hot so it definitely is opening (when I opened up the housing there was NO thermostat - I put one in and other than warming up faster, operation was identical so I know the thermostat is good). I just backflushed the cooling system and got some rust sediment in the coolant, but no big chunks of anything. Looking down into the radiator, the internal fins have a coating of rust on them, and when I cut into the inlet hose to install my tee, the inside of the hoses were coated with a layer of brown gunk (after using prestone's radiator flush).

So should I go ahead and replace the radiator ($100)? Or should I go to all the trouble of removing my water pump to check the internal components?

Also, just in case it's related: After setting the idle and timing, when I reconnect the vacuum to the advancer, it advances to between 5-6 (from 0). Everything I've read says it should advance to between 8-12. Should I be concerned about this at all?

 

If the radiator is original or has alot of miles on it, you would be better off buying a new one. A good replacement radiator will run close to $200.00. If you do replace the radiator get an all metal replacement. Do not get one that has plastic tanks, there junk and don`t last.

 

I would say do both if you can afford both.

I have the $100 plastic radiator (Spectra ) that myyota is talking about. So far it works fine. It does have a lifetime warranty from Autozone, so if it fails (springs a leak) I can get a replacement for free...supposedly, haven't tried that part yet.

With the radiator out of the way, there is much more room the replace the water pump. Replacing the water pump is fairly easy, just time consuming. The water pump can be replaced with the radiator installed if you want to do one thing at a time. However, the work space is much more limited.


If you do go the metal radiator route, Jim at 22RE Performance (a.k.a. Putney’s Custom Automotive Machine), has the metal 2-core radiators. He has his shop in Chico, since you are located somewhere in Northern California. I bought my new 22R engine from him.

http://www.22reperformance.com/22RE%...n%20parts.html

Scroll down to the "cooling system" section.

 

If it will sit around and idle all day just fine, and if driving around town in stop and go traffic doesn't overheat, and only at high speeds like on the freeway causes it to run hot, the most likely problem is the radiator.

Note I said "most likely". The lower radiator hoses could be a problem as could be the water pump.

And yes, you should be concerned about the timing- check that you don't have the vacuum hoses reversed. If they are connected correctly, I wouldn't worry about it much if your mileage is decent and you're not experiencing detonation (knock).

 

i had the same problem,picked up a lifetime warrenty all metal radiator from Oreileys for $129.00.fit great and works perfect.

 

Replaced the radiator, and it's cooling like a champ. Drove it a couple hundred miles and it never went up over 1/4 of the temp gauge. BTW, I went with a plastic tank from Autozone. The old tank said "TOYOTA" right on the top. I'm not expecting to need this new tank to last 200k miles.