SuaveGato

Hello,
new to the forums here hopefully someone can help me? I just bought a 1987 std. cab 2Wd with a 22R. 104,000 miles, really nice low mileage truck but it has oil pressure problems. on start up, the top end clatters loudly and the oil idiot light is on. Then as it warms up and the light flickers then goes off as oil gets pumped up to the top end, it quiets right down. If I back it into my driveway, so the front end is angled down a bit, it seems to help the oil get to where it is supposed to go better and or faster. When driving it, the light stays off but it will clatter sometimes, be quiet sometimes. I can tell, when it is getting sufficient oil pressure, it purrs nice and quiet. So I just need to figure what is causing the low O.P. and fix it.
any thoughts or sugestions are welcome? I have the Toyota Factory Repair & service manual for 1986 toyota, that should cover this one as well?

thank you,
biGjOhn

fierohink

Have you put a gauge into the hole for the sender on the passenger side of the block just above the lip of the oil pan and below the oil filter?

This will give you an idea as to your starting pressure.

Then the first thing I'd replace would be the oil pump. My service manual says you need to drop the pan, but I've done it without. I think a new pump is like $100. But it's worth it compared to cooking your motor and getting a new pump anyway.

SuaveGato

No I haven't yet... I don't have a tester gauge but did find a permanent one at the local Kragen for $20. I'll probably go get it and install it tomorrow, so I can see what the O.P. is doing? I did change the oil & filter and went with a little thicker oil, (20W50) it seems like it may have helped a little? who knows? I may also remove and inspect the oil relief valve on the oil pump. I'm thinking that if it is worn out, broken spring etc... it may be "by passing" the oil flow before it reaches sufficient pressure? and it's easy to get at and check... If not, I may have to drop the pan to check the pic up and pull the pump to check and or replace it?
any thoughts?
thanks,
biGjOhn

kyle_22r

i'd just yank the pump. you don't need to drop the pan -- it's just bolted on the front of the timing cover.

SuaveGato

Hello and thanks,
any "guestimate" on how long it might take to replace to the pump? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have all sorts of tools, air tools too.. just never done one. I'm thinking I may drop the pan as well though, while I'm there... just to make sure that nothing is wrong in there too? I'd hate to get it back together and then find out the sump or pickup was clogged etc... plus, will be an oil pan leak prevention... it looks like the front crossmember just unbolts, and then the pan would drop straight out? Bueller?
thanks guys,
biGjOhn

kyle_22r

if you want to drop the oilpan, you'll need to jack up the engine or take the front diff loose. pretty straightforward from there.

the hardest part about removing the oil pump is getting the front pulley off. remove the skidpan, then take a 19mm socket and a 1/2" breaker bar, put the socket on the pulley and wedge the breaker bar up against the bottom of the frame on the passenger side. then disconnect the coil and give the starter a bump. 9 times out of 10 that takes the bolt right out. usually the pulley will slide right off, but sometimes it requires using a puller. oh yeah, dont' forget to take the belts off first.

after that, the oil pump just unbolts and slides right off.

fierohink

When I did my top-end, which included everything up front, I didn't pull the skidpan. I just did everything from up top.

If you go that route you'll have to pull the belts(no big deal), pull the fan clutch (also no big deal), and pull the crankpulley. I too used the starter method where you jam the ratchet into the frame, pull the coil wire, and then bump the starter. And the crank pulley should slide right off.

From there it's like 4 or 5 bolts that hold the pump on. Provided nothing breaks on disassembly you should have the pump out in about and 1-1.5hrs. And then reinstall should be an hour or less cause you don;t need to break loose bolts at that point.

SuaveGato

Kewl, sounds easy enough! thanks for the starter-pulley-bolt-removal-tip! sounds a lot easier than elbow grease and busted knuckles! good tip on removing the bolts first and disconecting the coil wire too, DOH! that would be fun to watch (on someone else's truck) if it started! :-O Maybe I will just do the oil pump first. It doesn't look like there is any "cross over" removal requirements for the pan & the pump? I.e. no duplicate removal of stuffs neccesary? and maybe the pump will fix it and I'll be done?
thanks, I'll post my findings & results, maybe some pix too?
biGjOhn

Tim Davenport

cant just subscribe to this thread...