22r engine mounts
#1
22r engine mounts
Hey y’all. I just replaced my engine mounts (OE) on a 1987 Toyota pickup 4x4 with a 22r in it. I couldn’t find the specs for mounts in my Haynes manual but did find some specs on another post. They were saying
18ftlb - mount to bracket
33ftlb - mount to engine
i torque everything but now it’s worse then the worn out mounts I had in it. If I rev the engine the whole trucks pulls to one side.
does anyone have specs for the engine mount? Are these defective or do I need to crack on them more?
thanks!!!
18ftlb - mount to bracket
33ftlb - mount to engine
i torque everything but now it’s worse then the worn out mounts I had in it. If I rev the engine the whole trucks pulls to one side.
does anyone have specs for the engine mount? Are these defective or do I need to crack on them more?
thanks!!!
#2
All the give should be in the cushion rubber
. When you say OE, do you mean genuine Toyota parts???
If the bolts/nuts are up tight that's all that should matter. The torque specs are just to insure they won't come loose.
. When you say OE, do you mean genuine Toyota parts???
If the bolts/nuts are up tight that's all that should matter. The torque specs are just to insure they won't come loose.
#3
By OE I mean aftermarket but same design. There not the bomb proof mounts is really what I’m getting at.
The rubber is certainly absorbing the engine movement but I’m tempted to crank down on the engine to mount to compress the bushing cause this movement feels out of hand. Any harm is putting a few ftlbs onto the bolt and seeing if anything improves? I’m also wondering if the trans mount is worn and with new engine mounts it’s moving more then it should.
The rubber is certainly absorbing the engine movement but I’m tempted to crank down on the engine to mount to compress the bushing cause this movement feels out of hand. Any harm is putting a few ftlbs onto the bolt and seeing if anything improves? I’m also wondering if the trans mount is worn and with new engine mounts it’s moving more then it should.
#6
Alright tightened it down to 50 ftlb on the bushing and no real difference. I’ll probably leave it that way given the aftermarket mounts had an extra 3/16” of threads. The movement is only side to side and not front to back which maybe is just how it’s supposed to behave.
I’ll do the trans mount then. Should be done anyway, this truck hasn’t seen much love till I’ve been working on it. Need it bomb proof for duck season.
thanks!!
I’ll do the trans mount then. Should be done anyway, this truck hasn’t seen much love till I’ve been working on it. Need it bomb proof for duck season.
thanks!!
#7
Read aftermarket Toyota engine mount can be hit or miss. I have the Toyota OEM mounts that came with new engine brackets. Have yet to install.
Did you use a socket wrench to remove the mount to bracket nut? Use an extension? I can't get mine to fit. I am tempted to install the whole new bracket/mount assembly as I can easily reach the engine bolts from under the truck.
Did you use a socket wrench to remove the mount to bracket nut? Use an extension? I can't get mine to fit. I am tempted to install the whole new bracket/mount assembly as I can easily reach the engine bolts from under the truck.
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#8
I’ll read those forums. If the transmission mount doesn’t change anything I’m gonna need to change out the mounts cause it’s pretty ˟˟˟˟ed up.
I used a mix of box wrenches and extension. I took off my air intake and unplugged the spark plug wires and worked from above. A wrench on the nut and different sized extensions helped get it off pretty fast. I didn’t need to touch the bracket attached to the block. 3/8 torque wrench was really helpful getting it to spec given the small space.
when it comes to assembly I’d mount the bracket loosely to the block and do a mix of lowering and shaking to thread the bolts into the lower bracket. I had to move the engine up and down to get the drivers side bolts into place because the plates were just offset enough.
let us know how the oem mounts are!! Might need to switch.
I used a mix of box wrenches and extension. I took off my air intake and unplugged the spark plug wires and worked from above. A wrench on the nut and different sized extensions helped get it off pretty fast. I didn’t need to touch the bracket attached to the block. 3/8 torque wrench was really helpful getting it to spec given the small space.
when it comes to assembly I’d mount the bracket loosely to the block and do a mix of lowering and shaking to thread the bolts into the lower bracket. I had to move the engine up and down to get the drivers side bolts into place because the plates were just offset enough.
let us know how the oem mounts are!! Might need to switch.
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