22R-E Temp Sensor threads
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22R-E Temp Sensor threads
Anyone know the thread size and pitch of the temperature sensor in the top of the intake, between #2 and #3 runner on a 22R-E? The threads in the intake don't look great and I'd like to chase them, but my biggest tap is a M12x1.25 and it's bigger than that. Toyota also uses M14x1.5 and M16x1.5 fasteners, but I don't know that this sensor falls under those sizes. It seems the sensor bottoms out on a shoulder, so maybe it's tapped with parallel threads instead of a pipe taper. Anyway, anyone know?
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If nobody else chimes in soon enough for you, you could take the sensor to an O'Reilly, Lowe's, etc.....someone with a bolt fitting chart.... and check it that way. I've done that looking for bolts on my exhaust manifold and oil sending unit. Unfortunately, they had nothing that would match the sending unit. I was looking for an adapter for a bypass oil filter. Had to wind up calling the guy who dealt the filters for spec and fitting.
Sorry...wish I could help more. Best of luck!
Sorry...wish I could help more. Best of luck!
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Thanks thook, that's actually not a bad suggestion and pretty much exactly what I'm gonna do. I put a touch of grease on the shoulder down in the hole and ran the sensor in, seems like it touches so it might not even be an issue. But now I am wondering and will have to find out just so I know!
#6
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We used to have an Ace Westlake Hardware store in Fayetteville....the nearest metro area. They had all kinds of things unimaginable for the DIY'r. Including a chart and fittings for everything. Then they shut down due to the neighboring competition...Looowe's! Loooowe down, more like it. And they, of course, don't specialize in much of anything, so finding anything (like what you're dealing with, as I have) is very challenging. Why is diversity so terrifying? You'd think people would know homogenous is not necessarily a great thing....lol!
When you find out what you need to know, post up so that we may all learn from your finding.
When you find out what you need to know, post up so that we may all learn from your finding.
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#8
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That's what I was thinking. I just couldn't remember the exact term...exactly. The sending unit, of which I spoke, was/is just that. And, yes, it was a bugger to find a match. Why? I don't know. Toyota components can't be the only thing made with BSP.
#10
http://sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16339 these are the adapters I used
#12
Mine is smaller.
Mine seems to be a bit smaller. or perhaps a different pitch. . The sensor I removed was only one turn in, and the new one only goes in one turn.
This is an 86 22re 4 Runner.
Both the old sensor and the new one measure out at M16 X 1.5 tapered. I am unable to get a good reading on the threads in the manifold with a pitch gauge, due to its location. There is also a step down inside the hole, as if the shoulder on the sensor bottoms on it. The hole appears to be straight, not tapered. Why the threads on the sensor would be tapered is a mystery to me.
The previous owner had a shop replace the head, and they might have put a different intake manifold on, one with a different pitch hole. It could be M16X2, but a M16X2 bolt also just barely starts and then tightens. . I should check it with a M16 X1.5 bolt, but the closest 9 hardware stores do not carry them.
Should I tap it out with a M16 X 1.5 tap and install the new sensor? I guess a bottoming tap would be best, on account of the step. Of course, no one seems to stock a bottoming tap, just the ordinary starting tap. I will have to cut the end off to make a bottoming tap, I guess.
Or is there another sensor that has matching threads that will work?
Or should I tap it to 3/8 NPT and go with an aftermarket mechanical gauge?
At this point, I fear a previous owner or mechanic boogered the threads, and I will probably need to hunt down a M16X1.5 bottoming tap to clean them up and hope it seals and stays tight.
All suggestions and information much appreciated. I am lost, here.
This is an 86 22re 4 Runner.
Both the old sensor and the new one measure out at M16 X 1.5 tapered. I am unable to get a good reading on the threads in the manifold with a pitch gauge, due to its location. There is also a step down inside the hole, as if the shoulder on the sensor bottoms on it. The hole appears to be straight, not tapered. Why the threads on the sensor would be tapered is a mystery to me.
The previous owner had a shop replace the head, and they might have put a different intake manifold on, one with a different pitch hole. It could be M16X2, but a M16X2 bolt also just barely starts and then tightens. . I should check it with a M16 X1.5 bolt, but the closest 9 hardware stores do not carry them.
Should I tap it out with a M16 X 1.5 tap and install the new sensor? I guess a bottoming tap would be best, on account of the step. Of course, no one seems to stock a bottoming tap, just the ordinary starting tap. I will have to cut the end off to make a bottoming tap, I guess.
Or is there another sensor that has matching threads that will work?
Or should I tap it to 3/8 NPT and go with an aftermarket mechanical gauge?
At this point, I fear a previous owner or mechanic boogered the threads, and I will probably need to hunt down a M16X1.5 bottoming tap to clean them up and hope it seals and stays tight.
All suggestions and information much appreciated. I am lost, here.
Last edited by Billat908@yahoo.com; 08-22-2012 at 04:33 PM.
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http://kbctools.com/usa/Navigation/N...fm?PDFPage=102 ~$15 for the 16 x 1.5 straight tap.
I would be surprised if it were a straight thread, though. How would it seal? The tip of the metal sensor to a metal shoulder seems unlikely to provide a seal. And you believe the new sensor has a tapered thread.
I would be surprised if it were a straight thread, though. How would it seal? The tip of the metal sensor to a metal shoulder seems unlikely to provide a seal. And you believe the new sensor has a tapered thread.
#15
Scope, I am of two minds on this. Standard US aftermarket mechanical temp gauges often have a bulb that seals simply by compressing the flange of the temp bulb against a shoulder in the adapter. However, all the electrical temp bulbs I have seen use a tapered thread.
My eyes cannot really determine if they threads are straight or tapered. I did turn a piece of scrap to the same diameter as the shoulder of the sensor, and it seems that it wiggles around a little less as it descends into the bore, indicating tapered threads. But I have no way to determine if the tapered threads of the sensor make the seal or if the shoulders abut to make the seal, like the US aftermarket mechanical ones.
My eyes cannot really determine if they threads are straight or tapered. I did turn a piece of scrap to the same diameter as the shoulder of the sensor, and it seems that it wiggles around a little less as it descends into the bore, indicating tapered threads. But I have no way to determine if the tapered threads of the sensor make the seal or if the shoulders abut to make the seal, like the US aftermarket mechanical ones.
Last edited by Billat908@yahoo.com; 08-23-2012 at 05:43 AM.
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Whatever you have now, you're probably best off "converting" (?) it to match the replacement part, which you've determined is a tapered thread. I have no idea where to get a 16 x 1.5 pipe tap (but I do believe they exist).
But if you think that the manifold was originally tapped correctly and just needs the threads cleaned up, you could consider running a straight tap in only far enough to clean up the threads, and then stop. What I DON'T know is how far that is. But it sounds like you're no stranger to a micrometer, so you could measure the tap then measure the sensor to see where to stop. (And you already know that a "taper tap" is not a pipe tap; it doesn't cut a tapered thread.)
But if you think that the manifold was originally tapped correctly and just needs the threads cleaned up, you could consider running a straight tap in only far enough to clean up the threads, and then stop. What I DON'T know is how far that is. But it sounds like you're no stranger to a micrometer, so you could measure the tap then measure the sensor to see where to stop. (And you already know that a "taper tap" is not a pipe tap; it doesn't cut a tapered thread.)
#17
Thanks, Scope..... I more or less did what you suggested.
All I could buy locally was a plug M16 X 1.5, and the way it bit into the metal, I think I was making parallel threads out of tapered threads. I used special aluminum cutting oil, so it came out pretty smooth. I am at a loss to even guess how the threads got bad in the first place. Anyway, the tapered threads on the sensor seem to be sealing, so no leaks and good readings. I will keep an eye on it for leakage, and will use some Permatex or teflon tape if it leaks. That, of course, could louse up the ground, but a hose clamp will get it back.
So far, so good.
All I could buy locally was a plug M16 X 1.5, and the way it bit into the metal, I think I was making parallel threads out of tapered threads. I used special aluminum cutting oil, so it came out pretty smooth. I am at a loss to even guess how the threads got bad in the first place. Anyway, the tapered threads on the sensor seem to be sealing, so no leaks and good readings. I will keep an eye on it for leakage, and will use some Permatex or teflon tape if it leaks. That, of course, could louse up the ground, but a hose clamp will get it back.
So far, so good.
#18
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1/8 BSPT, same as diff breathers, oil pressure fitting..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXqzJ...ure=plpp_video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXqzJ...ure=plpp_video
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But Billat908@yahoo.com "measured" his at M16x1.5.
Could it be a 3/8" BSPT, which is approximately M16.66 x 1.34 ?
See generally , http://www.newmantools.com/taps/bsp.htm
Could it be a 3/8" BSPT, which is approximately M16.66 x 1.34 ?
See generally , http://www.newmantools.com/taps/bsp.htm