o0k so let me get this straight! I can purchase these springs in desired length? and perform the mod shown here and get the desired lift and get rid of my 4" blocks
My sas'd 86 has 6" shackles and 4" blocks on the rear.
what about pinion angle?

 

I have the mod myself, it is great x10. The perfect fix is a proper top and/or bottom mount, any fab shop should be able to make one up for cheap. Yes this thread is the cheapest way to do it, but for a little more time and money it can be done the right way ... in my opinion.

 

That's 100% spot on.

I'd been researching this for a long time. I was really leaning toward the Chevy spring swap, but I don't weld and don't have a hook up for that....plus, I have a draw tite hitch bolted on, which would get in the way of moving the rear hangers 4" back.... Also, putting in stiffer springs for more height would make it ride stiffer, which was not what I was trying to do.

Adding crazy shackles will mess up the pinion angle I'm pretty certain; however, keeping the OEM springs and angling them straight down toward the ground with the coils, then adding shackles (as I plan) would probalby be OK on the pinion angle.

If I had my wish, I'd do Chevys (maybe some day I will when I learn to weld!), but for now, with my budget and level of expertise, this was the right move for me.

 

it still looks low in the back to me.

 

That's because it is

Keep in mind, as I stated earlier in this post, this truck has IFS and a 4 inch bracket lift up front. It was running on flat OEM rear leafs with 4 inch blocks.

So, imagine doing this on a NON-lifted truck - you would get 4-5 inches of rear lift out of it, which you could match up front with BJ spacers, T bar cranks.

I plan to relax my T bars to even it out, and probably get some 6 inch shackles for the rear to get it higher - I can live with a "raked" look.

 

Yes, ZUK - I've researched ALL your linked projects prior to starting this so I'm familiar with that. Shackles are probably what's next....I'll try the T bar adjustment up front first, then decide....when time allows this month, I'll do it and post up photos.

 

DJ99, I really like the what you've done with the TJ coils. My 4runner is sagging big time in the back but I don't want to weld on the frame since it's such a clean rig. I like the fact that if I'm not satisfied, I can uninstall easily and no one would know.

Quick question, did you do anything to keep the coil in there like some type of retainer or fabbed up plate? Or did you just raise it, wedge the coil in then lower it and call it a day? Call me crazy but I'm super paranoid that it would somehow end up shooting out of there...maybe as long as I'm not hitting any roadside bombs I'll be okay!

Also, did you experience any squeeks or popping noises after your install like some of the ZUK guys have noticed? Any info or tips would be greatly appreciated because I think I'm gonna just go ahead and buy these TJ springs...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...item2c539ae8bf

 

No. You're right. The shackles should flex to the back of the truck on compression so the possibility of contact is there if your exhaust is really close. Only you can make that call. You could try to really stuff it on that side and measure the extra 2 1/2 inches out at that point and see where your are.

 

I installed them like you said. Nothing to keep them in there but the spring action. Since I don't rock climb with this truck, I am not at all afraid of them popping out. If you really wanted to, you could drill a hole through the upper bump stop front to back and put a keeper bolt through there or something.

There was only a few pops from settling the first couple of trips, but I really haven't noticed much noise from there since. Let us know how you make out.

 

Ok...I think the best thing to do in the case of the weld-less method is to cut off most of the upper steel stopper leaving about an inch....by doing so, there will be more breathing room for the coil and it shouldn't make popping noises. The coil should never even come close to rattling around and falling out in a stock leafpack rearend. Philbert would probably vouch for that...he had the leafpack dropped as far as possible and he still had to compress and muscle the 14" coil in place....which means he could have left just a 1/4" of the steel stopper and it still would stay in place...even on flexy trails. Limited by shackles and stock leafs and shocks.
ZUK

 

True, ZUK -I had to use a bottle jack to "reverse compress" the springs to cram in the coils. I've driven almost 200 miles on these and no issues yet - haven't lost a spring on the freeway or anything I still hear a small creak/groan/friction noise here and there, usually at low speeds when braking.

Now, if I install longer shackles, I would run the risk of them slipping out ONLY under extreme flex, right? Or, because the distance between frame and axle would be increased, the coil's own pressure holding it in place would be reduced, and may lead to chances of popping out, correct?

I don't go crawling or anything - mostly asphalt and occasional snow and camping....

 

Try it...get the longer shackle and flex the heck out of it and with the wheel dropped down as far as it will go, I bet it will still be tight.

That groaning that you're getting....I bet if you hack off another inch or 1.5" that the coil will not interfere with the steel uppers. The edges on the steel need to be flared out or relaxed....I think they are catching the coil.

 

if all else fails, attach some safety wires

 

I finally got around to adjusting the T bars on this guy to try and level out the front. Never done it before. From what I understand, there was to be a lock nut atop the adjusting nut. I found the locknut on the pass side, but the driver side DIDN'T HAVE ONE!! Is this bad? I cna thank Big O tires for losing this years ago I believe, since they installed the lift kit....and had forgotten to adjust the T bars (the IFS was riding on the frame for a bit...).


Anyway, I adjusted the nut on the T bars 3/4" on both sides, and got about an inch of drop (from fender to wheel rim) it looks like.

Here are some progress pics:


Before the ZUK Coil mod (rear riding about an inch off the bumpstops with 4" blocks; 4" IFS lift):




After the ZUK Coil mod (4" rear blocks GONE!):


After adjusting the Torsion Bars this weekend (dropped about an inch up front to even out):



Now all I need to do is figure out my exhuast - I thought I was going to have to relocate it to accommodate longer shackles (due to the issue with the ride heights), and it has slip joints, so it's rattly and stinky...need to get it welded. It also buts right up against my spare tire (and sometimes pass side rear leaf) - is this normal (it's not OEM size - it's 32" I believe)?

Notice the ghetto use of the OEM hanger (I actually screweed it into a part of the frame that's about 2 inches farther back than the stock location):


You can see how precarious it is:

 

Hey Phil. The uncrank looks good. Pretty close to level. Thinking about your exhaust/shackle deal. I know you cut your exhaust to get it to fit, I did as well, Mostly bc the hanger near the exhaust tip wouldn't work otherwise.

I had to get my slip joints welded (they leaked pretty bad, even though I used sealant in the slip joints during assembly. If you decide to do it, have them extend the rear hanger or just lengthen it so you can lengthen the exhaust as far as you can in order clearance the longer shackles.

As for the spare problem, I have a stock size spare, mine doesn't touch, but its close. I am sure it'll get a little more snug when I finally pick up a full size spare.

Lookin good.

 

thanks Jason!

I definitely need to get it welded. Right now, with this setup from yesterday, it's bumping up against the driver side rear storage area (above axle, in front of spare) and making some vibrations at certain RPMs. Is lengthening a hanger a big deal - do they just cut, splice and weld? Trying to get an idea of the cost of having this done and the slip joints.

 

Geez, never even thought about it until I looked at your post this morning. I have no idea what the cost would be. I just ran out and checked my rig, the bend over the axle sits by a little welded on square piece, and I have about a half inch clearance or so, and have never had problems with bumping.

I figure they could add a piece onto the hanger, or just get you a longer hanger so the tip will be the same height, but the hanger on the exhaust pipe reaches forward to connect to the body.

 

I stopped by a local mufler shop and they said it would be about $40-50 to weld the 3 slip joints.

Also, I stopped by Auto Store today and picked up some generic aftermarket muffler hanger extensions, which I'll try out soon.

I did seafoam today too, so my truck is extra stinky with the exhuast leaks!

 

semi reviving an old thread but did u have any settling with the springs just wondering cause i was thinking about doing this mod and liked your thread

 

it creaks/groans here and there, but i think that's due to the sides of the bumpstops being longer than others have done, so it rubs against the springs more. Nothing bad/scary though.