All,
My 95 4runner will not start I have checked the following:
1. Spark - I am getting spark
2. Starts if I feed fuel manually but dies after that fuel is gone.
3. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail at the bango bolt. Jumped B+ - FP in the diagnostic module and turned the ignition on. No fuel pressure.
4. Took off the return fuel hose from the fuel pressure regulator and I am getting no fuel dumping from it so definitely no fuel pressure.
5. Checked fuel pump fuse it is fine.
6. I changed the fuel filter about 5,000 miles ago.
7. At this point I could use some help on what to check next and how to check it.
Potential problems.
- Fuel Pump is not working.
- Wiring to fuel pump. How to check ?
- EFI relay? Does this need to be checked at this point.
- Any other relays.?
- Can a faulty Engine control module cause this?

Any experience or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

B+ is straight from the EFI relay. With KOEO, check for battery voltage (~12v) to ground. If you don't get battery voltage there, check for voltage at the EFI fuse. (There are metal tabs on the top of the fuse for just that purpose. Check both for voltage to ground.)

FP goes straight to the Fuel Pump. With key-off, check resistance to ground. It should be very low (<10ohms). If very high, could be an open in the pump (replace pump) or a broken wire; check at the connector at the pump.

When you jumper FP to B+ (w/key-on) you should be able to hear the fuel pump. If you can, but still get no pressure, you may have a broken/disconnected fuel line inside the tank. (If broken outside the tank, you should be standing in a puddle.)

 

Thanks!
I will give your suggestions a try and let you know what I find.

 

The voltage for the EFI fuse and Relay 11.3. I also checked the battery straight up and it is 11.74 kind of weak.

For the ohms on the FP with ignition off I set the multi-meter to 200 and I do not get a reading at all (just stays on 1). So I changed the setting to 20K and then it register 5.4. So from what you said that would mean a bad pump or broken wire at the pump. Correct?

 

First, "1" is a reading. (You're not alone. It's really difficult to understand what's going on when someone says "I put my meter on it, and I got nuthin'") You know your meter; I assume that means "resistance greater than the maximum for this [200 ohms] range."

Yes, 5.4 kOhms (5400 ohms) is way too high for a fuel pump. [It's also too low for a broken wire, but if you have enough dirt back there you could get this reading.] The "open" is somewhere between the FP pin and where the fuel pump is connected to ground (including the pump). If you can get to the connector at the pump, you can narrow down whether the open is in the wire to the pump, from the pump back to ground, or in the pump itself.

You're getting close. Good luck!

 

Yeah, that is exactly what I meant, the resistance it greater than the 200 ohms range..The correct way to describe it. Again thanks for getting me pointed in the right direction.

 

Wanted to give an update on this. So I dropped the gas tank and messed with the wires back at the fuel pump and it started working. Since I had dropped the tank I decided to just drop it all the way and replace the fuel pump while I had it apart. For those of you who have done a fuel pump replacement you know what a pain-in-the-ass it is getting the tank off so I did not want to do that again. Denso fuel pump is only $74 (that includes shipping). I got it all back together and it is working great.

Thanks for your help again scope103.

 

That tells me that your problem probably was a bad connection to the pump at the tank. Your pump might have been okay (but $74 to replace it is reasonably cheap insurance). So you should very carefully examine the wiring that you "messed with," as you probably have a broken wire that you temporarily reconnected. It's not going to stay reconnected for very long.

 

I don't know about the later model 4Runners, but the older ones, like the 86 on, had a "hatch" under the back seat to access the fuel pump without dropping the tank. Lift the back seat bottom half up, as though you were going to fold the seat normally, and it's right there in the metal under the seat. A circular plate, I'm guessing 3-4" in diameter, held down with screws around the outside. A bunch of screws. Take the plate off, and there's the fuel pump hose fittings, electrical connectors, and so on, all right there on top of the tank. Easy to see, easy to work on.

Hope this is still accurate for the 95 model. The way my luck runs, of course, Toyota did away with the access hatch...
Pat☺

 

One of the connections was full of dirt, I cleaned it real good.Man I hope that does it. Other than that the wiring looked real good.

As for the access panel, 95 4runners don't have it. I did watch a few video of DIYers cutting their own panel, decided not to do that. Thanks for the info though.