I just recently rebuilt my 22RE. I am trying to get it started but it doesn't seem like fuel is entering the cylinders. I have cranked it over for several seconds and do not smell any fuel in the chambers nor is the end of the spark plug even slightly damp. I have checked the spark and that is not an issue. How would I go about checking my fuel system to make sure that fuel is getting in there? Any information would be greatly appreciated.

 

jump the fuel pump, or tap into a fuel line and test for pressure, not 100% on the RE, but most fi vehicles actually have some type of fuel testing port to hook a meter up to...

 

how would I go about jumping the fuel pump? It doesn't seem to be turning on with the ignition. I have tried turning the ignition to the on positon and I cannot hear the fuel pump at all.

 

Well I jumped the pump with +B and FP terminals. When the ignition is turned to the on position, I get noise from the pump and the pressure regulator. However I don't have a fuel pressure gauge so I can't really tell where that is at. I am starting to think that it may be the wiring to the injectors then. Does that sound right?

 

That would be the next choice. Injector resistance is in the 1.5-3 ohm range, make sure they are not burned out. Then you could see if you are getting 12V to the injector ballast resistor (B-W wire) on the passenger side fender, looks like a big heat sink. If so, see if you are getting somewhat less voltage on the other two wires out of the resistor that feed the injectors. One wire feeds #1 and #2, the other wire feeds #3 and #4. If the voltages are the same (input and output) then that means no current is flowing through the resistor and therefore through the injector(s).

 

SIGNS OF LIFE! Well....sort of. I am getting fuel pressure in the fuel rail which is a good thing. Using starting fluid I got it to fire a few times. Playing with the distributor a rough idle was achieved however the distributor was moved so far that the bolt would not go in. Tried moving a tooth on the distributor and then had no luck of it firing other than the occasional backfire. Could it be that the timing is off by a lot? I have tried playing with the distributor but have not had the same luck again. Any suggestions or ideas?

 

Sounds like your timing is off, as you suggested. You need 3 things to make the engine run, air, fuel and spark. Sounds like you have 2 out of the 3.

 

Making progress: I set up the motor at TDC on the compression stroke (could feel air be forced out of the spark plug hole). Put the distributor in with the rotor over the #1 wire. Tried to start it and it sounded like it would start and then died almost instantly. No luck. Should I try advancing the distributor a tooth foward or back? What else should I check?

 

Is the rotor over #1 when it is fully seated or when you start to insert it? You might try hooking up a timing like and seeing where the timing marks are while cranking the engine over.

 

The timing is at 8 deg. with the check connector shorted

 

Where do I go from here?

 

Base timing should be 5 deg. BTDC. Does the timing change when the jumper is installed? It should jump from about 12 deg. to 5 deg. when the jumper is installed. If not, check the Throttle Position Sensor to make sure it has a good IDLe reading.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

And you might give a double check for air leaks between the air filter/AFM and the throttle body. Even a tiny leak or hole/crack in a that intake tubing can make an engine not run.

 

I checked my solenoid resistor since the injectors are still not firing. It is getting power from the ignition so that checks out. When I checked the resistance from +B to the No. 10 and then the No. 20 terminal, I got readings of 3.4 and 3.5 ohms respectively. My Haynes manual says this reading should be between 2 and 3. Would a half of ohm make the difference of my injectors firing or not. How exact do the tolerances need to be?

 

Depends on what all is included int he circuit. Each injector by itself is supposed to be 1.5 - 3.0 ohms. A little variation would not be that bad I would think, when they fail, the coil usually burns out or shorts so you would see 0 or infinite ohms. If youa re including the ballast resistor, hen that will add to the overall resistance and since 10 and 20 terminals have two injectors on each, in parallel, you are looking at a more complex circuit.

 

Just to clarify my previous post: I just tested the connectors of the solenoid resistor, not the length of wires from the resistor to the injectors or ECU

 

Well then the resistor seems like it should work then.

 

UPDATE: Here is some data that I collected that makes my theories on faulty wiring a little sketchy:

Injector resistance: All 4 ranged between 2.7 and 2.8 ohms. This is towards the limits of the specs (1.5-3.0) but good nonetheless.

Injector power feed: The yellow wire off of the solenoid resistor was continuous to the #1 and #3 injectors (isn't this supposed to be to 1 and 2?). The blue wire (although the splice looked a litte corroded) was continuous and led to the #2 and #4 injectors. Assuming that the solenoid resistor is good, this would mean that the injectors are receieving proper power.

Injector ground to ECU: The white and white/red strip wires both led from the No. 10 and No. 20 pinout on the ECU to a splice where both were put together w/ a butt connector to the 4 injector wires. Checked for continuity between the ECU connector and where the wires were spliced together and it was good (<1.0 ohm). Checking between the injector plugs there was a large variation in resistance. Between the #1 and #2 grounds, resistance was around 3 ohms. Between #2 and #3, resistance jumped to 50 ohms. Between #3 and #4 resistance was about 60 ohms. I am not sure if this should make a difference.

Engine Ground: Checked brown wires from ECU to engine ground point (stud on intake/plenum seam towards firewall) and they were continuous with resistances < 1 ohm.

Does all of this information seem like what I should be getting for a functioning injector system? If that is the case, where should my focus shift?

 

Well that says there is nothing open in the circuit, all parts have continuity and are close to or within spec. electircally. One option would be to send the injectors out for flow testing, cleaning and matching:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...html#Injectors

A good thing to do if they have a lot of miles on them. Or the FSM lists a test procedure where you measure fuel flow rates, but this requires SSTs.

 

Injectors have already been sent out to cruzin performance. They were cleaned and flow tested. All checked out well.

 

Then they aren't your problem. You aren't getting fuel somewhere else or maybe they aren't firing due to a bad connection with the ECU.