OK I've got a 1994 Toyota 4x4,with 22re engine only 3200miles on complete rebuild.....first it started out losing cylinders yesterday well come to find out fuel filter was stopped up along with 3 injectors...So cleaned injectors installed new filter,and man this thing has never had that much power,OK this evening under a load up hills it fill like it has a miss or stumble,so I install new plugs and cap /rotor botton still there only under a load,and it will bust out very bad when you rev it to 4250 rpms any help would be nice !!!!!!

 

Is it possible that you had so much dirt floating around in your system that you've stopped up an injector again? Or the fuel filter?

Ignition timing right on?

 

In your rebuild did you also install a new fuel pump??

Did you have the tank out and clean that out as well.

must have been working in the dark if you managed to get dirt in the injectors .

it could be your having fuel delivery problems .

Then some of these Engines have a issue if you run any wires but Toyota.

coil and igniter getting tired ??

Just remember these engines are not a high rpm engine i have had some that anything over 3500 rpm they just die.

 

The rev limiter is set from the factory slightly above redline. If the ignition cuts out before this it's a sign of failed shielding on the ignition signal wires. Also permanent magnets don't fail (in my experience) but the pickup coils do.

Of course all that is academic..

You know you have fuel supply issues and don't mention checking the tank and lines. Recheck the filter isn't cloged or broken, the injectors aren't cloged or frozen, the suppy lines aren't damaged or pluged, then inspect clean repair or replace the pump it's pickup filter and the tank.

 

The total rebuild was the engine only,just got back from driving it tonight,and it seems to run fine until you drive it for around 15-20 mins then when you take off from a dead stop and really turn it up it starts bucking just like you are turning it on and off fast,then when you put it in a lug as in 5th gear going up a small incline it starts it again.....also when you start off in it first thing like leaving work it will flood smoke and smell raw fuel like threw 4th gear???????

 

Also forgot to mention tank was cleaned and new pump installed 3 month ago...

 

Have you checked the resistance of the coil once you have warmed it up after your 15 to 20 minutes of driving.

If your smelling gas do you have a gas leak ?? Maybe at the cold start injector .

As for the smoke have the rings seated yet how many miles.

It always smokes when you start the engine after sitting any length of time??

This would be black smoke?? A blue gray colored smoke??

it is possible to have a stuck injector dumping fuel into the cylinder at all times more dirt.

You must live in a warm dry climate because you did not mention any thing about needing a new fuel pump bracket most often the ones I remove come out in pieces.

Just how did you clean the injectors?? they all have a good spray pattern??

Cleaned the cold start injector as well??

Are we dealing with a manual or Auto?? I have heard of these ECT`s doing strange things.

Are you using Toyota wires some of these engines can be picky

 

Have you checked for stored ECU codes?

 

I had similar trouble after a fresh rebuild on my 22re. The rebuild took me about a year (low budget, low priority) during which the fuel lines were left open. I did not clean my tank or replace the pump.

My problem was caused by 2 things:
1.) A missing ground connection (the one that bolts to the power steering pump) I would check all your grounds
2.) crap in the fuel/lines; I ended up replacing my fuel filter twice after the rebuild. (and a third time about 2 years later)

 

OK changed coil,another set of new plug wire,air flow meter,and CSI thought it was fixed but started again......pulled fuel tank off and what a mess black junk built up everywhere sock on pump was also full of same stuff just installed new tank and pump hope it's fixed!!!!!!!

 

Fixed........but tach shows 4250rpm but verus snap on scanner shows 5250rpm So I guess the tach need replaced......

 

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../6combinat.pdf
BE-33, Once you've verifiedthe Ohm readingis ok you can adjust the tach with the trim pot onthe right hand side of it. It's detailed in the SR5 Cluster swaps, incase you can't find it.