I just finished installing new heads on my 94 3vze . icant get the engine to idle. If I let it sit for a few minutes I can usually get it to idle for half a second before dying . My timing is perfect and all my vacuum lines are new. Efi fuse is good, I know I'm getting fuel to the rail because my CSI fuel line was pissing gas from a crack in the line (fixed). I haven't tried the FP to b+ yet. It sounds good for that half second of idle I can occasionally get out of it. The tail pipe doesn't really smell like gas even after a lot of cranking. I'm pretty sure this is fuel system related no start ...any help would be great. I don't have a fuel pressure tester BTW. All mysparkplig cables are where they should be. Mac is connected, no vacuum leaks...I just want to here this thing run already

 

Is there fuel at the cold start injector? crack it and see if it sprays

 

Ill try that and see. I did have a bad fuel line to the CSI and it was pissin out a lot of gas so I'm assuming I have pressure there. I also tried starting it with the CSI electrical connector off just for kicks with no luck...any idea where the FP pin is on the diagnostics port? The cap on mines missing

 

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...87fuelpump.pdf

 

For some reason I can't open that download...I turned on the pump by wedging the AFM door open with a rubber hose. I could definatly hear the fuel pump whinning but still didn't start up. I cracked the banjo on the CSI and got plenty of fuel pressure there....maybe this is all spark related...plugs gapped at .031, timing is set, all spark plug cables are in the right spots. Plenty of juice at the battery. Coil connections are all plugged in, my grounds all look good. It sounds like it really wants to start. Maybe I should jump the FP at the diagnostic port and see

 

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i have a question, my 3vze runs until it gets warm and dies starts right back up when its cooled of also sometimes will start and run while feathering the gas or wide open while it is still warm

 

I think theres a coolant temp switch for the fuel injectors on the back of the intake...maybe something to do with that? Sounds like a fuel issue or a temp sensor somewhere

 

That can be approximately 1,000 things. Make sure the ignition timing is set correctly. Make sure the idle speed is at least close. These are basic places to start, and you skip them at your own peril.

 

it eventually stalls out even at a high rpm. it runs good tho when it runs. a friend thinks egr

 

idles at 1000 until warms up then around 800 all within 10 minutes then will shut right off or run rough for a second and stall

 

i tried the paper clip trick for fuel pump it has new o2 sensors, fuel filter, injectors, plenum gaskets. plugs wires. i never messed with distributor tho. i planned on that and coil next.i put paper clip in tei and ei check engine stayed solid when i turned key to on. light does come on right before it stalls out but if i manage to get rpms up it smooths out and light goes out. i can manage to make it run but it starts very hard and i have to keep the rpms up over 1800 to 2000.

 

if the CEL is solid, you haven't activated the diagnostic circuit (probably because you haven't made a good connection at the diagnostic connector).

Getting your stored code could help.

 

i have codes 14 24 and 31

 

Okay, now what?

(Hint: you need to find out what those codes mean. A few seconds wandering this site will tell you exactly how to do that. The codes won't tell you, for instance, the part to replace. But in your case, they point to an obvious location ....)

 

so i took igniter plug out and it was full of water. truck seems to be running good and not quitting.