Hello everyone! I recently picked up a partially SAS'd 1994 Toyota pickup with 135xxx original miles from what I know. It sat for many many years before I purchased it. I was able to get it running with a new fuel pump before I began my tune-up process which included:

- new ignition components (rotor, cap, wires, plugs, etc)
- refreshed injectors with new filters and seals/o-rings along with a new fuel filter
- cleaned throttle body/replaced throttle screw o-ring
- cleaned IACV and tested in boiling water (works fine from what I can tell - moves in and out based on water/coolant temp)
- TPS has been adjusted to pass all tests, timing has been properly set, etc
- thorough coolant flush along with new Toyota thermostat

I'm sure I'm missing a few little things. For the first start up after all the recent tune-up work, it started right up and sounded strong. No hesitating, bogging, etc. Now, a few days later, it's running worse and worse. It can barely go up a driveway without dying or stumbling over itself. It rocks and shakes at idle, almost like a misfire. I've confirmed that each spark plug is getting spark, and have listened to each injector firing (all sound the same). Any ideas? Is there something I'm missing? I know these engines relatively well, and am stumped.

I've read many many threads about similar problems, but none seem to help me. Thank you for any and all advice!

 

Further diagnosing... pulling both spark plugs wires 2 and 3 makes no difference while it's "idling"... I've got spark going to each plug so now I'm looking at the injectors. I've got a guy down the road who does injectors so I'll get them cleaned and flow tested with him and will post results. Should have them back within a few days!

 

Turns out I had two injectors that slowly clogged until eventually no gas was getting through. I had them cleaned and it is now running quite well.

Current "problem": I'm chasing a higher than normal idle. I don't have a tach to know the exact RPM, but it's higher than other healthy 22RE's I've had in the past. IAC valve has been confirmed working, and there is no blockage in the coolant lines anymore. The hoses leading in and out of the IAC valve are both warm, so I know coolant is flowing. I can get my idle below the "brake pedal press fuel cut" threshold by adjusting the idle screw, but it is only turned 1/4-1/2 out from being bottomed out. How far out are your idle screws set? I have a brand new o-ring on the screw (it holds everything in place just fine). Also no known vacuum leaks. Ideas?

 

Thank you for posting your fix!!

 

I think for 22re throttle set screw is supposed to be like 1/2 turn from contact with the throttle body. Check the FSM to be for sure but it’s barely enough to make the tb blade just not be 100% closed and stick.

 

I知 sorry I meant the idle screw, located on top of the throttle bottle, before the actual butterfly valve!

My throttle stop screw was properly set 1/4 turn past touching when I was setting the TPS sensor.

 

Okay perfect. I had an intermittent higher than normal idle problem for a few months that was solved by removing my dashpot. It was old, cracked and packed with silt from desert shenanigans. Couldn’t find a new one so I just removed it. Also I lubed my blade pivot and that helped. You’ve tried spraying carb cleaner around all the intake to be 100% you’re not getting unmetered air, right? I’m not sure how many screws from closed my idle adjustment screw is out from bottom but I can check this afternoon for you.

 

Yes I've checked for vacuum leaks in the past and couldn't find any. Wouldn't hurt to try again though.

Dashpot is old but works fine. IF you move your idle screw on my behalf (thank you!!), please make sure to put it exactly back where it was. Also note, if your o-ring is old and gets disturbed, it may begin to jiggle itself loose. Just know that. If your o-ring needs replacing, you can go to Ace Hardware and pay less than a dollar for a replacement o-ring. It is a Danco branded o-ring, part number 41933 (7/16 OD x 5/16 ID). I can confirm this is the correct o-ring. I am currently running it as we speak with no issues. Just lube it up to make sure it doesn't bind as it is twisted in.

 

No worries I have one of the stainless ones from LCE on my throttle body, and plenty of o rings. I’ll check when I get home today

 

2.5 turns out from bottom out

 

Yeah something isn稚 right with mine. Possible IAC issues or a vacuum leak somewhere I知 sure. Thank you for checking! I can keep it in check with the idle screw less than one turn out from bottom, but that痴 just a band-aid solution.

I知 going to begin timing chain work very soon. It痴 developing a nasty rattle when cold. It only has 135k miles. Sounds about right mileage-wise?

 

If it’s rattling it needs to be replaced along with the tensioner.

 

Of course. I知 thinking of going dual row. Always wanted to!

 

Aaaaaaand decided against dual row. Too much money for a truck that largely sits. The idea of ultimately reliability is entertaining, but sadly not justifiable in my eyes.

 

Quick update: engine is now back together and runs quite well. Now that the cooling system has been thoroughly flushed, the IACV works well and the truck idles very smoothly.

I took the valve cover off to inspect the top end and saw a little bit of milky oil but ONLY at the front end of the engine, almost located exclusively around the hidden bolt on top of the timing cover. I went and re-RTVd that top bolt and let it sit overnight. Any thoughts?

I opted for replacing the oil pump, water pump and timing cover while doing the timing chain job. All components in that area are new. I used an OEM head gasket and new head bolts. Let me know what you all think!

 

For peace of mind you can pressure test the cooling system and see if it bleeds down, but I'd suspect that might just be residual. I'd clean up and just monitor fluid levels. Maybe do a oil change soon.
The parts stores usually have a pressure tester in their loaner tool program.

 

I値l definitely have to pressure test it. I知 assuming pressure test the cooling system with the head off so I can inspect everything (ie bubbles, leaking noise, etc?)

I知 somewhat relieved as the milky oil was only on top of the head and around the first two rocker arms, essentially all isolated in the same place. If I had pressure washed the engine bay aggressively I would even assume that water got it somehow some way (but this isn稚 the case). Very odd indeed.

Does that top timing cover bolt even touch a coolant passage? I知 trying to visualize the cover itself and what this bolt is near. I don稚 think it痴 near coolant?

 

You can leave the valve cover on. If you do the test and have a drop then you can dig deeper. That bolt doesn’t go near a water jacket that I’m aware of.

 

I値l definitely do this. It値l be a few weeks before I have more time to tinker, but I値l for sure post my results in hopes to fix the problem myself but help others as well.

 

I'd pressure test. Than block test. If it passes both I'd do an oil change and monitor. Is the underside of the oil cap clean? Having that look like a malted milkshake was always the sign of bigger issues on the 22R#.