1992 4Runner 3.0 Fuel Line issue...
#1
1992 4Runner 3.0 Fuel Line issue...
Hi all, first post here, I've searched for this particular problem, found some answers, but I need help locating this part.
I found this thread here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...35/index2.html
and on the 2nd page, first reply, from MT Goat, there is an exquisite picture of my predicament. Although it isn't EXACTLY like mine, the arrow that points to "Fuel Line" is where my fuel line is cracked, and SPRAYING fuel. I cannot for the life of me find this part. I need the hose (Rubber, with metal crimped ends), that goes from where this arrow is pointing, to the engine.
I was changing my Slave Cylinder, when I inadvertently cracked this line where it connects right where this arrow is pointing.
I didn't want to necro this old thread, and decided to start a new one.
I've called my local toyota parts dept. and they don't seem to know what I am talking about...
really need to get this part, this is my daily driver
I found this thread here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...35/index2.html
and on the 2nd page, first reply, from MT Goat, there is an exquisite picture of my predicament. Although it isn't EXACTLY like mine, the arrow that points to "Fuel Line" is where my fuel line is cracked, and SPRAYING fuel. I cannot for the life of me find this part. I need the hose (Rubber, with metal crimped ends), that goes from where this arrow is pointing, to the engine.
I was changing my Slave Cylinder, when I inadvertently cracked this line where it connects right where this arrow is pointing.
I didn't want to necro this old thread, and decided to start a new one.
I've called my local toyota parts dept. and they don't seem to know what I am talking about...
really need to get this part, this is my daily driver
#2
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I'm not as smart as the guys at the parts dept, but the there are only two flexible fuel hoses in the engine compartment; one goes to the cold start injector, the other from the fuel rail (near the pulsation damper) to the hard line back to the tank.
So I'm going to guess it's the latter. PNC 23811B is "Fuel Pipe No. 1"
Part No. 801-65023. About $35-$45
If you do replace that line, DON'T FORGET to order replacement seals for the engine end. (23807J and 23270B in the drawing.) They're raw aluminum, one-time use, so I would get two sets just in case I put it together and had to redo it. They don't cost much. (Can you reuse the old ones? Sure, and you can use duct tape to stop your current leak ...)
But I'm just guessing. Only you can take a picture that actually shows something.
Last edited by scope103; 08-25-2010 at 08:28 AM.
#3
yeah, I managed to get that PITA Toyota EPC installed, and found it. It's the 23811B, I'm 99.99% sure of it. The local dealership wants 60 bucks for it though...
This is starting to look more and more like something I can't do in a weekend. From the looks of the location of this one (where it goes under the plenum), I'll have to remove the fracking intake to get to the banjo fitting...
thanks for the tip about the OTU seals, I'll pick up a couple of sets just to be on the safe side.
Also, any tips on what to spray on these fittings to loosen them up? I've soaked them in PB Blaster for days, and they are still not wanting to come apart.
This is starting to look more and more like something I can't do in a weekend. From the looks of the location of this one (where it goes under the plenum), I'll have to remove the fracking intake to get to the banjo fitting...
thanks for the tip about the OTU seals, I'll pick up a couple of sets just to be on the safe side.
Also, any tips on what to spray on these fittings to loosen them up? I've soaked them in PB Blaster for days, and they are still not wanting to come apart.
#4
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http://www.toyotapartszone.com/Page_...onentsIndex=27
I've never ordered from them. Their site's search-by-part-number doesn't seem to work for me, but you can drill down the list if you have an inkling about the part number. They do have a pretty exhaustive list of Toyota-brand parts.
Sorry, I've only had to use Liquid Wrench. Do be sure you're using a flare nut wrench (probably 14mm for most of them), and not trying to take these apart with a plain open end wrench. The fittings are brass, and once you round them over you'll need to replace the whole fuel line.
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