I have a 1990 toyota pickup with a '92 22-re motor that was converted to carbureted with a 1990 carburetor.. Now it starts runs for a few seconds then dies and after it's hard to start back unless my gas pedal is to the floor. This the third time in two months this happened but the first time that I have t been able to smooth it out. First time changed fuel filter, gas treatment, and tune up it worked. Second time fuel filter, gas treatment, took carburetor off and cleaned it and it worked. This time fuel filter , treatment, carburetor more thoroughly cleaned not working what should I do

 

Were gonna need way more info.
what carb? What intake? Whats your fuel pressure?

 

I am definitely new to this so beat with me.. it's the Asian two barrel carb not sure about the intake and haven't done any pressure test. But update today I finally had an extra pair of hands and I was able to run the throttle under the hood, so I could get a better look. I reved it a couple times and the gas was flooding the carb. Checked the oil and smelled gas???

 

While I avoid carburetors like the Plague, I'm guessing your float is not shutting off the fuel input. Bad valve, or sunken float. The bowl fills up and keeps filling.

 

Try to stick with one thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52450337

 

Would that cause the gas smell in the oil? If it sticking or or sunk do I need to rebuild or could there be something that's not letting it float freely?

 

Back in the day, carburetor floats were stamp brass soldered together. If they leaked, they sank. Nowadays, the last floats I've seen are dense foam, so I don't know that they can sink.

The float works a little needle valve. In the carburetors I've seen, there is a 1/2-3/4" shaft with a tapered point, and the point has an elastomer (rubber) sealing surface (the seat is just metal). Most rebuild kits (that I've seen) have a replacement shaft.

If you're flooding, you're putting so much gas into the cylinder that it won't fire. That gas has to go somewhere. Most goes out the exhaust, but some slips past the rings, even if you have good ring sealing.

You can remove the top of the float bowl, flip it over (so the float closes the valve) and blow into it. If you can blow through it, it's not working.

 

Well today I took carburetor back of and, like you said, the float was stuck. I stuck it back on and it starts better but runs really bad. Check the oil and it smelled really bad with gas.. so I drain the oil and let it drain for a while, with carburetor hooked up, and after an hour and a half it was still dipping from the oil pan but it was gas that was dripping. So now I'm worried the problem is bigger than a quick fix. Waiting on my carburetor rebuild kit to get here but now I'm wondering what else needs fixed and if I can fix it?

 

Aisin carbs need a specific fuel pressure. If you dont have an external regulator, its getting too much fuel.
your pump is designed for an efi system which takes way more pressure. Id put a regulator in the fuel line somewhere before taking the carb apart.

 

And yes, you can fix it!

 

Ok I got the pump in the tank and then the mechanical pump in front of carburetor. Do I put one in before or after the mechanical pump?

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/22re-carb-297942/

regulator comes after the fuel pump. Im not sure why you have 2 fuel pumps.

The EFI system uses the intank pump. The older R series engines used an inline pump. Im not sure if or when the carbed 22r went to an intank pump.

 

I guess he left it on when. He put the carb on... So does it need both,?? It is the intake pump cause it mount into the side of the intake. When I was changing my oil, truck was not running, gas was still coming through!! So that definitely means me carburetor bowl is leaking right??

 

You dont need two pumps.
its probably easier to remove the mechanical pump on the motor than the electric pump in the tank. You might want to test the efi pump before you remove the mechanical one.

and it sounds like you got a carb leak