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I have a 1987 P/U that I do most of my own wrenching on... It's only got 109k miles and its a 4-cylinder R-22 4WD. I am getting an awful grinding sound from the front right side when I brake. I can hear it when I apply the brakes. I have taken a flashlight to look at the rotor and can see some surface rust and a faint score line. I don't drive the truck that hard so I want to try and nip this problem in the bud if I can. Is it hard to pull the caliper and see if I have something embedded in the brake pad? Could the brake pad have broken? With a 4-cylinder, we all know these trucks are "low on the food chain" with today's powerful vehicles but I sure like my truck payment!
If anyone can suggest what I could do to diagnose the problem, I'm all ears. I've got my PB Blaster and box wrenches ready to go.
Breaks are most likely the culprit. Pull the wheel as mentioned above and inspect. Feel both sides of the rotor it should be smooth. If it has ridges or waves then you will need to have them turned flat. Most auto parts stores can do this or know of a shop locally. New rotors are not that expensive either if you need to replace them. If you have time price things from online as well. I order a lot of parts from Rockauto. Also as mentions above this is your braking system so it's important to do it properly.
Your brake pads are probably worn out. Rubbing problem is most likely caused between pads and rotor; not caliper.
This is a simple, standard, easy maintenance procedure that everybody who wrenches on his truck should learn how to do.
No need to remove he caliper to do this.
No special tools needed. Pull out 2 pins, pull out 2 clips, pull out pads.
Here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52300709
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 12-22-2017 at 08:59 AM.
Thanks for the help guys. Here are a couple pictures of what the caliper looks like... We're having an ice storm right now so I want to hold off on jacking the vehicle up (wish I had a shop or garage...). But that is my next step. Hopefully these photos help...
I definitely agree. I am going to get some pads and pull those pins like you said. First, I am going to clean up the area with some Aerokroil. I will be sure to keep it off the rotor surfaces. Aerokroil has saved me countless times. Amazing stuff. I will check those links. I like the pads with the holes at the top for leverage in compressing the pistons.
I definitely agree. I am going to get some pads and pull those pins like you said. First, I am going to clean up the area with some Aerokroil. I will be sure to keep it off the rotor surfaces. Aerokroil has saved me countless times. Amazing stuff. I will check those links. I like the pads with the holes at the top for leverage in compressing the pistons.
Some non-chlorinated brake cleaner will help remove any extra crap you accidentally get on rotors.
Here's an update. I made some progress today. It's 5 degrees outside... I got the lugs unfrozen (thanks Aerokroil). I got the rim off (thanks Aerokroil). I got the retaining clips off... I got the pins free (thanks Aerokroil). I have attached a photo showing the inboard pad... I was able to wiggle this one loose. It's fairly corroded and definitely the source of the grinding. I got the new pads yesterday (Bosch Quietcast) and they came with the retaining clips so I will be able to replace mine. I literally have to stop working every 45 minutes to prevent frostbite. I know most of the folks here could do this one with their eyes closed... I just have to be careful that I don't screw something up and have to get my rig to a warm shop. Wish I had a garage! Here's a photo showing the inboard pad (red) and the pin corrosion (yellow) that I had to clean off to get the pins out. It's supposed to be 15 tomorrow so hopefully I'll be able to finish the job.
Oh my...
Your pads are gone. Those are the metal plates rubbing against the rotor. The rotor does not look very worn out, fortunately. I hope it's as good inside as it looks outside.
The rubber seals on the cylinders look cracked/dried up too, and could that dark stain on upper left-hand one be evidence of a leak or of someone trying to seal it with siicone?
If you need replacement and OEM is too expensive, I suggest you try NAPA. I'm very happy with rear components I bought there.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-06-2018 at 03:57 PM.
Once you have metal-on-the-rotor, the rotor is almost certainly toast. (If there are grooves in the rotor, even shallow ones, they will destroy the new pads quite quickly.) Back in the day, we'd have to take the rotor to a machine shop to get it "turned." Today, the foundries in India are so efficient, rotors are made much thinner and should be replaced when scored.
As low as $7.50 at RockAuto (though shipping will inch that up a bit).
Passenger side... DONE! You guys are a life saver. I am going to try and do the other side after I warm up my hands. Wow it's cold. My moment of grace was gentle pressure on the pistons until they started to retract.
Driver's side 2nd pin still stuck... I hit it with Aerokroil and I'm going to hope it breaks the bond by tomorrow morning. The driver's side pads have a little left on them but I really need to get them done. It's 15 now but it should be in the low 30s tomorrow. I'm going to get up before work and try to pop the 2nd pin (the low one). The top pin is good to go. Ugh... what a pain in the rear.
Your new pads won't last long if you don't replace or reface the rotors and your passenger brake caliper looks to be leaking unless that is Aerokroil you sprayed on it.
I got the driver's side done... Phew. I definitely agree that I need new rotors but that will have to wait until spring. In full disclosure, the way I drive (like an 80 year old), I think I'll be ok for the time being. Lots of great help here. I will start looking at what it's going to take to replace the rotors. Hopefully, it's something I can do.
While you're in there, you should measure the axle-nut size. Since it takes next-to-no torque, they make "sockets" in that size that are just formed sheet metal. But you have to find the right size. In my case, the cost of the correct light-weight socket plus shipping was more than a Craftsman full-blown socket. If you're delaying that step, you can be on the lookout to find the right tool.
12-22-2017, 01:47 AM
