bamacooner1591

Okay, so it's about time to start replacing old wore out front end parts. I was wondering if anybody could list all the major things that need to be replaced. I already ordered balljoints, but i want to replace everything up under there and could use a list of all the parts that wear out. Its alot to ask but would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. I'm not a newbie to yotas, just IFS yotas

92dlxman

thinkin about the same thing myself. then i say screw it cause "One of these days, Im just gunna throw a solid axle under there". . . . . . . .right.

anyway, i would save and order any replaceable joint, and any part with non-replaceable joint. i would think tie-rods and control-arm bushings would be the most in need of replacement

edit: im no suspension/steering guru though, im not sure i even know where all my zerts are lol. just basing my assumptions for yours off of my shot inner tie-rod joints (they're the source of my "supercool" off-road noise) and that my control arm bushings are, well, visibly crap. still tracks strait and true though

bamacooner1591

I wanna tear everything apart and rebplace it and repaint all the components. Im in the process of a semi-frame off restoration. Got most everything under the hood replaced, no for the front and rear end.

bmcghie

Ah, another "Old IFS" case.

Does it still drive more or less straight? Any clunks at any time? Is your sway bar still on? How old are the shocks?

In my experience, the torsion bars never seem to go bad for stock application, so I wouldn't worry about them. It's also rare for the upper A-arm bushings to go out. Pitman arm also seems very stout and seems to go on forever.

Things to replace?
-You got ball joints, cool.
Also get:
-Lower control arm bushings, 2 for each side. You might also need camber adjustment bolts from the dealer if they are rusted in (one of my 4 was... what a PITA to replace.)
-Idler arm: specifically, the FA5040 autozone cheapy thingy... and then put 4crawler's bronze bushings in there. They are worth every penny. see: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/IdlerArm.shtml
-Tie rod ends: inners, outers, and adjustment sleeves. I've found mine never seemed to get really bad... but the rust gets them eventually and it's just easier to deal with new parts in there.
-Shocks. Your choice... but I hear bad things about Rancho and Procomp. Good things about Old Man Emu (I love mine) and Bilstein.
Finally:
-Sway bar: If yours is still attached, you will probably need new bushings where the bar pivots by the frame. You will almost certainly need new bushings on each of the endlinks. I don't know if you can get those separate, or just get new endlinks (should be under $10 a piece).
-CV joints: any clicks while driving? Turning? If so, you'll need a new CV soon. Some like the lifetime warranty on Autozone reman stuff, but OEM ones ARE stronger and take more abuse. If you don't have clicking, check both boots on either joint. If they are torn, you should remove the joint and replace them, or else road grime and crap will eventually get in and lead to joint failure.

Hope this helps, sorry if I gave more detail than necessary.

92dlxman

the above post is awesome, thank you for me, sure the OP will agree also

bamacooner1591

that was alot of help, that just about sums it up for me. and another question i have(a little off topic), is i went and got in a little mud the other day and afterwards a new noise came up. Seems to be coming from the right side of the truck and isn't a constant sound, just happens around 40-50mph. Any ideas?

bmcghie

Cool, glad to help. I'll reiterate: the Idler arm is the weakest link on the front end. The bronze bushings will be excellent for all but harsh off road use... then you might want a brace as well.

As for your noise... what does it sound like? Rattle, clunk, vibration, whine...? In 4hi or 2hi, both? Maybe you threw a wheel weight?

Badfish740

Actually if you wouldn't mind, how about a little more detail? Specifically, what special tools do you need if any for these services? Also, I'm assuming the truck will need an alignment afterwards?

bmcghie

Arg, I had a massive post ready for you... and I wasn't logged in and it went bye bye. Curses.

Long story short, I will elaborate as necessary; you need:
Jack, jackstands (duh)

Sockets, wrenches, breaker bar.

Locktite! Blue stuff! Use it on the 4 bolts on each ball joint, and nearly everywhere else can't hurt.

Anti-seize! Use it on the shock bolts. It really helps when you go to change the shocks later in life, or simply need to disconnect the shock for service.

C-clip pliers or patience+needle nose pliers for the CV joints.

Ball joint puller and/or a pickle fork (I find the pickle fork easier, but maybe I'm just barbaric.)

For the A-arm bushings... sigh, you will probably need a grinder or preferably a sawzall, in the even the camber adjustment bolts are rusted solid to the bushings. You WILL need a hydraulic press capable of 5 tons pressure or so... the bushings are BRUTAL to get out (well, for me they were. Local highschool machine shop helped!) New bushings go in easy with a bit of moly grease in between the metal surfaces.

Sway bar, shocks, idler arm, and usually ball joint replacements do NOT require an alignment. Everything else... ya, you probably should get it done.

Also, when your wheels are in the air... grab at 12 and 6 and check for play (try to rock the tire on the vertical axis). Any more than a teensy teensy tiny bit and you should probably repack your bearings. You need a 54mm socket for this, and a good torque wrench, and some patience and willingness to learn. Good tutorials are on this site somewhere.

Hope that helps. General rules? Jack up the truck, support it securely, remove wheels, disconnect parts until you can replace the part you wish to, then bolt it all back together. Nothing super tricky up front, except maybe wiggling the CV joint out and down.

Good luck!

5runner

yes for the idler arm deff do the brass bushing kit!!!! or u will be replacing it again and chewing up tires!