I'm looking into taking my first car, my 86' 4runner and turning her into a project. I've always wanted to fix her up and make a bad ass trail rig, however as I get older and I realize my career as a professional rally driver will probably never happen I would like to make a moderately capable, comfortable, and reliable vehicle for my cross country trips. Ultimately, I'm looking to add a roof tent, aux fuel tank, water tank, power inverter, and other moderate creature comforts into an ultra-capable RV. However, that's another thread. I should also mention I'm on a budget, just like everyone else.
For now, I'm looking at the following options for repairs and upgrades:
Suspension Upgrades:
2" BJ Spacers
63" Chevy Springs
Spartan Locker (Rear only)
Would love to extend control arms, but that's a bit too much.
Bilstein 5100 all around
Repairs:
My A/C has failed, I'm guessing a compressor seal or relay. (any opinions there are welcome)
My Power steering gear leaks, not sure if it's worth a rebuild or buying new. Leaning towards pulling the part, paying for a rebuild, and reinstalling to save the labor cost.
Power steering pump has leaks near it, I'm guessing it's the high pressure hose.
Brake booster failed, looking to upgrade booster, rotors, calipers, and master cyl to 2nd gen brake system. (Also looking for guidance) I've noticed some 2nd get boosters have more than one vacuum tube barb. How does this work if my 1st gen only has one?
Oil pan gasket leaks, I know what to do here.
My throttle body is from 1989, previous mechanic plugged some vacuum lines in an attempt to make it work. I've never been totally convinced, however it's not easy to find a factory throttle body anywhere. Is the LCE Big Bore throttle body worth the money?
I look forward to the advice and input!
For now, I'm looking at the following options for repairs and upgrades:
Suspension Upgrades:
2" BJ Spacers
63" Chevy Springs
Spartan Locker (Rear only)
Would love to extend control arms, but that's a bit too much.
Bilstein 5100 all around
Repairs:
My A/C has failed, I'm guessing a compressor seal or relay. (any opinions there are welcome)
My Power steering gear leaks, not sure if it's worth a rebuild or buying new. Leaning towards pulling the part, paying for a rebuild, and reinstalling to save the labor cost.
Power steering pump has leaks near it, I'm guessing it's the high pressure hose.
Brake booster failed, looking to upgrade booster, rotors, calipers, and master cyl to 2nd gen brake system. (Also looking for guidance) I've noticed some 2nd get boosters have more than one vacuum tube barb. How does this work if my 1st gen only has one?
Oil pan gasket leaks, I know what to do here.
My throttle body is from 1989, previous mechanic plugged some vacuum lines in an attempt to make it work. I've never been totally convinced, however it's not easy to find a factory throttle body anywhere. Is the LCE Big Bore throttle body worth the money?
I look forward to the advice and input!
RAD4Runner
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Welcome to the forum!
] had been to places that most $40K 5th Gens could only dream of.
Quote:
...A/C has failed...
My Power steering gear leaks...
Power steering pump has leaks near it...
Brake booster failed...
Oil pan gasket leaks...
...previous mechanic plugged some vacuum lines...
Therefore^^^, forget the upgrades. Focus on making it reliable in stock form. Defrag's and Ruined Adventure's stock first-gens [and mine Originally Posted by HTGthird
... I would like to make a moderately capable, comfortable, and reliable vehicle for my cross country trips. ...I should also mention I'm on a budget......A/C has failed...
My Power steering gear leaks...
Power steering pump has leaks near it...
Brake booster failed...
Oil pan gasket leaks...
...previous mechanic plugged some vacuum lines...
] had been to places that most $40K 5th Gens could only dream of.RAD4Runner
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Power steering pump has leaks near it, I'm guessing it's the high pressure hose.
Inspect it very thoroughly (see signature).Power steering pump has leaks near it, I'm guessing it's the high pressure hose.
I had leaks around myP.S. pump, too. Turned out it was just the low - pressure hose that was seeping. Replaced with 12" hose from NAPA for $4.
Friend's Camry also had P.S. fluid dripping. Before she took it to the shop, I found loose OEM hose clamp at reservoir. Replaced it with worm-screw hose clamp I always have in my spares kit. A dishonest mech could have easily told her her P.S. pump was bad and rip her off.
For door panel, see Grego92's build for posh version.
or mine for spartan/utilitarian version.
I'll check that out, I just assumed it to be the high pressure side. I'll let you know Monday what I find.
Any type on the back window only going up with the interior switch and only goin down with the key in the tailgate?
Any type on the back window only going up with the interior switch and only goin down with the key in the tailgate?
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NEED A VOLT-METER if you are committed to working on your truck yourself. (Pls see signature)
AND could be bad switch contacts and/or broken wire in tailgate flex harness.
I hate that roll-up window. It does not belong on a spartan, utilitarian truck like the first-gen.
However, here's how that stupid system works, and how to troubleshoot it: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52355907
Without a volt-meter, you can still do a quick test. See parts locations in link above, do the following and report back:
Console switch Operation:
Connecting wire going to pin 4 (Green with yel stripe) directly to ground should lower window,
Connecting Pin5 to ground (Red yellow stripe) in same manner as above will raise it.
Tailgate Key operation:
Wire to pin 11 (light blue-white stripe) when connected to ground will lower window.
Wire to pin 12 (lt blue-blk stripe) when connected to ground will raise window.
Bare, shiny metal of the body will usually be good ground.
Quote:
In the past 31 years, someone must have poured coffee, soda or beer on those console switches - LOL!Originally Posted by HTGthird
Any tips on the back window only going up with the interior switch and only goin down with the key in the tailgate?
AND could be bad switch contacts and/or broken wire in tailgate flex harness.
I hate that roll-up window. It does not belong on a spartan, utilitarian truck like the first-gen.
However, here's how that stupid system works, and how to troubleshoot it: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52355907
Without a volt-meter, you can still do a quick test. See parts locations in link above, do the following and report back:
Console switch Operation:
Connecting wire going to pin 4 (Green with yel stripe) directly to ground should lower window,
Connecting Pin5 to ground (Red yellow stripe) in same manner as above will raise it.
Tailgate Key operation:
Wire to pin 11 (light blue-white stripe) when connected to ground will lower window.
Wire to pin 12 (lt blue-blk stripe) when connected to ground will raise window.
Bare, shiny metal of the body will usually be good ground.
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SomedayJ
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Any type on the back window only going up with the interior switch and only goin down with the key in the tailgate?
Check the center console switch first, maybe it's dirty.Originally Posted by HTGthird
I'll check that out, I just assumed it to be the high pressure side. I'll let you know Monday what I find.Any type on the back window only going up with the interior switch and only goin down with the key in the tailgate?
Check if the wires in the lock cylinder are good, they are under the rubber cover (see photo)
Edit: the electric schematic's for the 88 model.
I have a volt meter, I've troubleshootededededed the back window before when I was much younger and less patient. I appreciate the feedback, I look forward to finding a bad hose clamp to fix my power steering leak too. lol
Also I'm hitting up my local LKQ Pick Your Part tomorrow morning. Anything you fellas would recommend I look for specifically? I'm definitely checking on the 2nd Gen brake parts already and maybe some leaf springs.
Righto, so I have searched more than a dozen junkyards across Florida looking for a proper brake booster. I ended up yanking one off of a 1991 Previa, it was a stupid, last ditch move that may end up giving me more headaches than I want. I'm considering making a quick adapter plate to get it installed and my 4runner running again.. The Previa Booster is on the right, you can see the bolt pattern is square with the larger hold dead center, the factory booster is rectangular bolt pattern with an offset.
While we're talking about this, what experience do you guys have with vacuum leaks? Where and what are the most obvious culprits? What kind of permanent fixes have you found success with?
While we're talking about this, what experience do you guys have with vacuum leaks? Where and what are the most obvious culprits? What kind of permanent fixes have you found success with?















