So I've got some 33 x 12.5 or will soon from a guy and want to know if they will fit on a stock setup. The tires I have on my truck absolutely suck right now and would like to throw the 33's on sooner than later. Suspension is coming before long, but dont' think my old tires can take any more beating.

 

Fit. Yes.
Turn without rubbing like a fat chick wearing cordoroy. No.

:wabbit2:

 

youll be ok but like brian said turning sharply can rub. could always go the 10.5 route and rub less

 

Ha ha ha ha ha..... That is what I was afraid of. Looks like once I get my engine put back together and all fixed up that lift will be coming sooner than later.

 

Any input on whether the 3" or 4" springs would be best? Just looking for something modest that will still have good functionality with this tire size.

 

Is that assuming stock offset or any offset wabbit? I know the SFA trucks are a little different especially because they flex better, but....... 33 12.5's on mine and had very little rubbage to fix with a 1-2" t-bar crank and probably could have made them work without the crank.

I know the front leaf springs can be an issue if the offset is too far in. Too far out then the fenders are the issue.

Just curious.

 

It will rub the leaf springs, the fender well, the pinch weld, your grandpa's bald head and the kitchen sink.

3" or 4" lift will make 33s look small.

:wabbit2:

 

so how does a 2" leaf spring lift solve the rub the leaf spring part? or do you absolutely need to run wheel spacers? I've seen 35 14.50's on a 1st gen pickup rub the leafs but very little. And that's with boggers. But unsure of the guys offset on the wheels.

 

It's too wide a tire to run properly without other modifications.
Depends on suspension, rim backspacing and type of rim, how much you massage the fender wells and if you run wheel spacers.

On a stock truck, no, IMO 33s do not "fit" properly they are too big and you will rub.

All kinds of ways to make them fit properly.

:wabbit2:

 

texcat here has got some 33's with the 3" springs and they don't look small. What am I missing here?

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...71/index3.html

Go down about 3/4 on the page or so

edit: maybe his sig means he has 3 inches of spring lift and not 3" springs. He also has the 2 inch body spacers as well which would equate to about 5 inches of total lift. Isn't that fairly comparable to what you have in your shop for the 3" springs (if not how much lift will that 3" spring bring?):

http://www.wabfab.org/Front-Lift-Kit...ypage.tpl.html

 

actually that's a 3" spring and 2" body according to his sig.

Thanks wabbit.

 

A 3" lift spring like I sell is 4" of lift when you add shackles and the front hanger.

Barney was an 84 Ext cab with OME lift that had 35s and 33s would have been small.
The 35/12.50/15s rubbed the leaf springs without wheel spacers.

There are all kinds of variables to consider, not just will these tires fit.

82 pickup at my shop has 5-6" of lift and the 35/12.50/15s wouldn't go on the front or rear without wheel spacers, as they were way too tight.

IFS axles are 3" wider so you have more room for wider tires relative to the frame and spring perches.

:wabbit2:

 

I understand that there are a lot of variables to tire fitment. Just trying to get a good idea on what lift. I don't mind doing extra work to get them to fit width wise, that's not an issue. For all the work that everyone puts into these things what is a little more. ha ha.

What's your opinion on the wheel spacers? or

 

My '85 w/ 33x9.50s (stock rims) and 3.5" lift springs:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml

 

X2

 

I have a 3" spring lift front and rear with a 2" body lift from 4crawler (thanks RB)but I have cut out the front fenders, added a leaf from the factory spring pack to the rear and also run 1-1/4" longer shackles... but I had to run 1-1/2" wheel spacers because I did the '94 calipers and Landcruiser rotors so that would be a small factor as well.
It seems that a 4" spring lift and a 2" body lift would get you close. Be prepared to rework your driveline geometry... I clocked mine slightly with a set of 4degree wedges and put in a double cardon to get rid of the driveline vibration. Seems like Roger had a good writeup on that too

 

Thanks for the info!!! Much appreciated.