mick.j.becker

I have been driving myself crazy trying to figure out whats going wrong but i can't so i decided it was time for a little help from the pros.

I am rebuilding my soldix axle at the moment. I am down to installing the hub and rotor assembly. My problem is that i can not get the wheel to spin at around 10 lbs. I torque it to 43 then spin then back off then spin then torque to 43 then spin then back off and spin. Then I finally torque to 21 ft lbs. I put the scale on the stud and it wont rotate until about 27 lbs.

I thought that I maybe installed the hub seal backwards so I put a new one on but reverse from how I had it before (so that the rubber is facing the inner bearing not the knuckle), and now it wont spin until 48 lbs.

The bearings all packed with the matching races. All races are fully seated and i greased the spindle, bearings, seal and around the seal and the shoulder the seal sits on and I cannot figure this out.

Question 1: Why is the rotor so tight?
Question 2: Whats the proper way to have the seal installed in the back of the hub? (what way does the rubber part face and the metal little lip face?)

Pics would also be great. Thanks

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

I've never used a scale and maybe that's bad, BT I've never had a bearing failure either, on past customers or my own vehicles. I usually pack bearings, lightly lube outer race, pack the open area between bearings and seat the first nut. Spin it a few times both ways while loosening and snugging the nut with the 54mm socket in my hand, no ratchet. Then I will just barely snug the nut and finish with the star washer and tighten the 2nd nut with the ratchet. After both nuts have tabs bent over a side I just finish everything else.

And it could be the extra resistance is from the grease. I've found different brands to have varying consistencies. Hi-temp will be different than high pressure grease. Same with a plain moly grease. Which I'm sure are different than whoever Toyota uses to make theirs. But any disc brake bearing grease should work for you.

The seal is hard to say. Usually the flat part of the seal is out, as in toward the differential if rotor is installed on truck. There shouldn't be any concave part of the seal showing when its done. But seals look different with different manufacturers. The main sealing lip should angle in towards bearing if that makes sense. So it will slide over seal lip but keep grease in. The spring on the seal lip should NOT be visible once everything is ready to put on the spindle.