Every time I see the letters TR all I can think of is texas ranger haha. So besides the brake lines stretching you haven't broken your j arm while under flex (as some stated this could happen). If I remove mine it would be only during the time i'd be wheelin it., reattatch when I'm hittin the road. Think that would cause any issues?

 

See here:

Ford, Chevy, Dodge, etc who used a SFA and leafs used crossover. Toyota used Push/pull for some god forsaken reason

 

Not true.
&0's chevy trucks have push pull, and none of them have the torque rod mentioned here.
But i think i know why.
The 70's chevy trucks have a wider track width, longer leaves, and a wider frame.
So the longer leaves aliminate alot of the axle wrap, as well as the brake-steering.

 

Makes sense with the longer leafes, we were wondering about that with blaines gmc.

 

Still wondering if would be safe to take off for trail use only? Anyone personally have any problems on the trails with it removed?

 

Have done it and did see some increase in flex (with 3.5" lift springs). But do realize that now your drag link and steering J-arm will be the droop limiter for your axle, so steering arm breakage is more likely.

 

Any thoughts on fabbing up a beefier steering arm? I'm not too crazy about lifting my truck which is why I just want to get the most out of stock suspension.

 

I may not be completely right about this but if you have military wrap style leaf springs you can eliminate the torque rod. I think the extra wrap around on the eyelets eliminate the axle from moving back and forth under braking and bumps.

 

well I learn't something tonight. I had always called these "torque bars" traction bars. And I was under the impression that they were purely for stopping axle wrap upon hard accelleration/braking and stopping wheel hop and thus preventing broken u-joint/driveshafts.

As for minit, What exactly do you mean by the axle moving back and forth? The extra wrap would help control the axle rotating due to more stiffness in the spring pack.

 

Mil-wrap only comes into play if you break the main leaf, that that 2nd leaf wrapped around the spring eye helps to keep the axle located.

But a mil-wrap doesn't do a whole lot to control for spring wrap, especially under braking. And it is the axle rolling back and forth under the springs that is what the torque rod helps with.

 

i would go with 5in shackles in the front and 5.5in in the rear. it will give you a little lift and a little more flex i had that on my truck when it was stock. i never took off the tq rod tho. if you plan on keeping stock leaf springs i have a nice set of rear springs that you could maybe try building a pack out of just a thought.

 

if you lift your truck in anyway fashon or form it is advised to modify the torque rod accordingly. nwor sells a bracket that welds on that allow you to adjust it for the lift. most are correct in saying that it is to prevent axle roll and wrap under hard accel or braking. it is also used to minimize that hunting associated with uneaven road surfaces. most full size leaf vehicles dont have the same style steering as stock toyota. generally the pitman arms runs left to right and does not depend on ridigity to move the steering like the toyota. thats why when you change to crossover you dont need it. if you remove it in trail situation you eliminating a safety that protects the steering and most likely if you need what little flex that will allow you could have done it with it on there anyway. I have a straight axle truck. i have lifted it both ways one keeping the factory steering and lengthing the torque rod and draglink and the other w/crossover. crossover is by far the way to go. I got 6in of lift in the front and crossover fits great. just man up and do it.