So I'm guessing this has to do with stablizing the front axle under braking. What would happen if I removed it? Seems like I could get a little more flex out of the front by doing so, kinda like removing the stupid swaybar. Anyone know any pros and cons of doing this? (Note in the picture its pretty much right in the middle of the img. Connected to the axle and the frame) [IMG][/IMG]

 

i was wonderin the same dang thing, also has any one moved their front axle forward 1" and the rear back about an 1" using the other hole in the spring perches? im also looking for more flex out of a stock suspension.

 

Bizump

 

It's called a torque rod. It helps prevent axle wrap. Definitely something you want to keep installed.

EDIT: Sure, change the thread title. Make me look like a moron stating the obvious. What'll they think of next?

 

it looks like every one who has trussed their axle or has a lift dose not have this torque rod, why is it so important for a stock rig? and i did a search and came up with nothing.

 

HOLY WORN OUT LEAF SPRINGS!!! haha just sayin
take it out and see what it changes, you can always put it back on as long as you dont break anything while takin it off!

 

Can someone who doesn't have ifs share their imput

 

O.k., you got me, I don't have a solid axle on my rig.(But odds are I could still out-wheel your ass without one!)

However, I can read. And everything I've read says that without it you will experience drastically noticeable changes in how the truck handles. Examples stated were pulling to one side while braking, nose-dive while braking, wandering, breaking "J" arms, and the previously mentioned axle wrap(a.k.a. spring wind-up). Once again I have to state "it's NOT rocket science". Though some have stated that with cross-over steering installed it's no longer necessary.
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/tec...n/torq_rod.htm
http://www.wildyoats.com/vbulletin/s...ad.php?t=13721
http://www.northwestoffroad.com/part...omponents.html

You're welcome! Ya ingrate!

 

Let's do this. For pinks.
Thanks for the other info though. Any idea why fullsize trucks dnt have them though? Same goes for jeeps

 

Leave it until you upgrade to crossover. I took mine off when I still had push and pull steering and my rig was all over the place while I was braking

 

i took mine off right after i got my truck, along with the sway bar. it pulls a little when braking but i also don't do 80 in my truck. Like previously stated take it off and see what you think.

 

The reason most full size's and jeep's don't is because they have link front suspensions, and they also have a trac bar to handle side to side motions, such as steering.

 

i think he was talking about leaf sprung jeeps, and leaf sprung full size trucks, i have a 72 gmc with leafs and push pull, no torque rod and that brakes and steers great, even with a slide in camper.

 

Blaine you know me too well. Actually you know this cause we've been discussing this. But yeah. I'm talking about leaf sprung vehicles.

 

Assuming you are referring to Toyota solid front axle trucks w/o the torque rod. The reason many don't is that they have crossover steering. Why does that matter? Simple, w/ stock (push-pull) steering, look at the torque rod and look at the steering drag link:



See how they are essentially parallel? That is no accident, in order to work right, the T/R and D/L must be lined up and it is the T/R that controls axle rolling forward and backwards and having that motion enter the steering.

With cross over steering, the drag link is parallel to the axle and thus having the axle roll back and forth has no impact on steering. So no need for the T/R, and in fact, the steering parts live when the T/R would have run, so it must be removed:

 

Could I run cross over steering with stock suspension? Any thoughts on moving the axle via the spring perch holes?

 

Generally need at least 3" of lift to fit crossover steering parts between the springs and frame. Even then it is a tight fit.

Easy enough to move the axle with the spring perch holes, check both perches before drilling as there are often extra holes in one of them. But you'll need to shorten up the drag link (or run an adjustable length version) and possibly shorten the torque rod, so it is a bit of work on the stock setup.

 

thank you, your info was very useful. most people just shoot you down for having a question and act like your an idiot for wondering, your examples and explanation were great.

 

For the record I would suggest crossover steering when doing ANY sort of lift for this very reason. Without that torque rod, the axle will "dive" a little upon braking. If you have the push/pull steering with the stock J-arm, that translates into the front moving (all of which was explained before)

With a lift, that movement will be multiplied due to greater weight and leverage forces; IE the higher you lift, the more of a lever it creates. This is also why you can't run blocks in the front. Since the truck is trying to push OVER the front axle assy, you don't want the axle to fold UNDER the truck. With no blocks its not an issue, but I think you understand my point about the steering.

 

I can agree with DeathCougar's analysis and the physics behind what would make the TR useful, but how is it then that other leaf style front ends on other trucks do not have such a part?

Frankly I find it to be useless and you will acquire more flex without it. After removing both the torque rod and sway bar, I found that the truck now flexes well enough that the brake line stretches out... so its time for new lines evidently. On the other hand, body roll increases tremendously on windy mountain roads... pros and cons.

The stock braking system for an 84-85 Toy SUCKS. I'd be suprised if someone could ruin a front leaf spring from braking power on a stock setup. What I will suggest is that it MAY help retain alignment during hard braking (I think thats what Cougar was saying). I never gave it much thought, but my truck never pulled to the side while braking until "around the time" I pulled the TR off. This led to caliper rebuilds, turned rotors, and new pads but she still does it. It may have to do with the factory steering all linking to the driverside with the old style "J arm". (I have the stock steering setup BTW).