84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

weber 32/36 vent line stall fix

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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 09:05 PM
  #1  
creswellhick's Avatar
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From: vancouver wash right now and creswell or
weber 32/36 vent line stall fix

ok so ive been looking around for a write up on this well a good one anyway and i cant find one any one got one ?
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 09:23 PM
  #2  
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From: vancouver wash right now and creswell or
its a electric choke btw and what im looking for is running a line from the carb so excess fuel can be drained on incline
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 02:10 AM
  #3  
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From: PNW
you mean like this?
Originally Posted by ocdropzone
Found this one on a Local 4Wheeler board linked from the Marlin Board:
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index...8356#msg588356

compliments of dropthattaco:
Ok, so I have a Weber 32/36 DGAV on my 81 4x4. The Weber works great on the 22r, and picked up a bit of pep and the driveability is loads better than stock. Even gets 18 MPG much to my surprise. Unfortunately, the Weber really does not like going up hills. Deciding this was unacceptable, I took it upon myself to remedy this situation. The problem is the location of the bowl vent. When the truck tilts back, the fuel spills into the air horn, making the truck stall. To fix this there are three things you need to do. First, make sure the float level is AT MOST spec height, preferrably 1-2mm lower. Second, install a fuel pressure regulator. I use this one:

and it's set to 2psi. NO MORE.
Third, you need to relocate the fuel bowl vent. This is the hardest part, and the one I'm going to focus on.
To relocate the bowl vent:
Remove the top of the carb.

You will notice a couple of rectangles that pass through the top. One of these is the the bowl vent. It is the one closest to the fuel inlet, furthest from the choke tower. You will need to plug it. I used JB Weld. Here:

And here it is after the JB weld:

Now you will need to make a vent to replace the one you plugged. Luckily there is a blanked port that isn't used on these carbs. Here's what you do.

Drill some holes in the port to allow the vapors out. You will be able to see your drill bit through the hole in the end. Then you will need to vent the vapor somewhere. The fitting in the end is 3/8" inside diameter, so I bought some copper tube from ACE hardware and hammered it in.

and from the top:

Then I routed it to the stock carb charcoal canister (under the battery) using 3/8" fuel hose.


And here's the finished product:

Runs up hills like a champ now. Good luck!!!
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 04:10 AM
  #4  
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
^^^ I am good with these carb's but yet I have no nuts to do that. But that is how you make a weber climb hills.
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 07:38 AM
  #5  
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From: vancouver wash right now and creswell or
after my regulator then il do this dosent seem to complibated and would be worth it has anyone done this
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 12:59 PM
  #6  
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From: Park City, UT
I've thought about it, but in this sandy desert area I haven't gotten traction where it's steep enough to need to. I lose traction first, even locked/welded at both ends.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 09:46 AM
  #7  
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From: Twentynine Palms, CA
I just finished the mod. It was cake to do. Just be careful with the drill and let the bit do the work. I didn't even have a carbide bit and the metal was really easy to drill.
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