To upgrade or not to upgrade
02-19-2018, 05:32 PM
#22
irab88
Thanks, I think while i'am doing this I will upgrade the brakes in the front, if only I could get some straight answers from the people who have done the upgrade.
Seems like I need:
dual booster
1" master cylinder
V6 calipers
vented rotors
All of which can be from a V6 89-95 4 runner.
I looked at a thread that dropzone posted in his stickey's "notebook for ideas" for links to other web sites about brake upgrades that have this information and this is what I ended up with
Sure wish he would comment on what I have here to see if I'm on the right track
I wasn't going to do the upgrade but have since decided to go a bit bigger on my wheels to 35s
Thanks, I think while i'am doing this I will upgrade the brakes in the front, if only I could get some straight answers from the people who have done the upgrade.
Seems like I need:
dual booster
1" master cylinder
V6 calipers
vented rotors
All of which can be from a V6 89-95 4 runner.
I looked at a thread that dropzone posted in his stickey's "notebook for ideas" for links to other web sites about brake upgrades that have this information and this is what I ended up with
Sure wish he would comment on what I have here to see if I'm on the right track
I wasn't going to do the upgrade but have since decided to go a bit bigger on my wheels to 35s
Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; 02-19-2018 at 05:34 PM.
02-21-2018, 02:16 PM
#24
Anybody do this?
How does it work?
If the rod on the LSPV goes up and down then how does this work with a bolt going in and out, Confussed
.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=804330
How does it work?
If the rod on the LSPV goes up and down then how does this work with a bolt going in and out, Confussed
.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=804330
Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; 02-21-2018 at 02:18 PM.
02-21-2018, 04:47 PM
#25
Anybody do this?
How does it work?
If the rod on the LSPV goes up and down then how does this work with a bolt going in and out, Confussed
.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=804330
How does it work?
If the rod on the LSPV goes up and down then how does this work with a bolt going in and out, Confussed
.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=804330
02-21-2018, 06:38 PM
#27
the arm/rod turns the valve/bolt. The bolt adjusts the pressure..
I don't recall off hand if it's a valve body on a spring or a needle valve its adjusting but the effect is the same. Arm moves up relative to the valve body the valve/volt moves inward and routes more to the rear lines.
I don't recall off hand if it's a valve body on a spring or a needle valve its adjusting but the effect is the same. Arm moves up relative to the valve body the valve/volt moves inward and routes more to the rear lines.
02-22-2018, 10:29 AM
#29
Many ppl simple tie the arm of the LSPV up so it is in the most open position all the time, I did this for years. Some have cut arm off and use a turn buckle to "adjust" flow to back brakes. Is a guy on pirate that machined brass pieces to make LSPV a manual proportionate valve.
I have not troubleshot LPSV to verify function.
I have not troubleshot LPSV to verify function.
02-22-2018, 11:46 AM
#30
Many ppl simple tie the arm of the LSPV up so it is in the most open position all the time, I did this for years. Some have cut arm off and use a turn buckle to "adjust" flow to back brakes. Is a guy on pirate that machined brass pieces to make LSPV a manual proportionate valve.
I have not troubleshot LPSV to verify function.
I have not troubleshot LPSV to verify function.
See the problem I see where people just tie it up is that you "might" get to much braking power to the rear wheels causing the rear wheels to lock up and cause "fishtailing" I would rather have it work the way it was designed allbeit maybe not the best design to start with. Next would be a way to adjust it so as to regulate the pressure. I still don't know how to check the valve when it's off the truck.
02-22-2018, 02:10 PM
#31
muddpigg
See the problem I see where people just tie it up is that you "might" get to much braking power to the rear wheels causing the rear wheels to lock up and cause "fishtailing" I would rather have it work the way it was designed allbeit maybe not the best design to start with. Next would be a way to adjust it so as to regulate the pressure. I still don't know how to check the valve when it's off the truck.
See the problem I see where people just tie it up is that you "might" get to much braking power to the rear wheels causing the rear wheels to lock up and cause "fishtailing" I would rather have it work the way it was designed allbeit maybe not the best design to start with. Next would be a way to adjust it so as to regulate the pressure. I still don't know how to check the valve when it's off the truck.
02-22-2018, 02:19 PM
#32
NY - I get what you're saying. My comfort on working on and changing from stock have greatly changed from 12 yrs ago.
I've never seen "how to" a LSPV function test. You could test it by measuring flow rate. So bleed all air out of the system then change height of LSPV arm, but get a baseline in either up or down, then measure amount of fluid (quantity) that can be bled off a rear cylinder on a single pedal stroke. Fluid quantity should change with arm height adjustment. Will need a to be able to measure small quantity. Maybe a syringe would with CC/ml scale with just enough brake fluid in it so no chance of air slipping into brake system. Us medical types call it "bleeding the the line."
I fully understand concerns of fishtailing from rear brakes locking up under heavy braking. Makes me cringe every time I see a member posting how the removed the LSPV and do not run a manual proportionate valve. With disc brakes rear I run the manual valve just above the lowest setting. How I set it was find a relative safe straight away and hit the brakes hard. Then adjusted accordingly, I did want any surprises when a hard braking situation came up while regular driving rig. You can do the same means of "adjustment" with tying up LSPV if you decide to go that route.
I've never seen "how to" a LSPV function test. You could test it by measuring flow rate. So bleed all air out of the system then change height of LSPV arm, but get a baseline in either up or down, then measure amount of fluid (quantity) that can be bled off a rear cylinder on a single pedal stroke. Fluid quantity should change with arm height adjustment. Will need a to be able to measure small quantity. Maybe a syringe would with CC/ml scale with just enough brake fluid in it so no chance of air slipping into brake system. Us medical types call it "bleeding the the line."
I fully understand concerns of fishtailing from rear brakes locking up under heavy braking. Makes me cringe every time I see a member posting how the removed the LSPV and do not run a manual proportionate valve. With disc brakes rear I run the manual valve just above the lowest setting. How I set it was find a relative safe straight away and hit the brakes hard. Then adjusted accordingly, I did want any surprises when a hard braking situation came up while regular driving rig. You can do the same means of "adjustment" with tying up LSPV if you decide to go that route.
02-22-2018, 03:12 PM
#33
Thanks
muddpigg
Thanks also, I guess I'll figure it out when the rear end if done and put back in.
Thanks
Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; 02-22-2018 at 03:14 PM.
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