Truck runs poorly for 20 seconds, then dies
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Truck runs poorly for 20 seconds, then dies
I have been trying to get my truck to run. I have just installed a new head, head gasket, timing chain and water pump. I also had the intake manifold matted so looks alot better.
I have ever thing plugged back in except the vacuum hoses to the Bi-metal Vacuum Switching Valve (BVSV) because I accidentally broke it
The truck sometimes starts but will only idle for at most 20 seconds. If i press the gas pedal, it will die immediatly.
Here is what I have done/checked:
- I currently have no ECU codes.
- I checked the AFM by stealing my buddies and trying using his because his truck runs amazing. Didn't help.
- I adjusted the TPS.
- I have also have the ignition timing set to 5 degrees.
- My fuel pump turns on when I use the Fuel Pump Test Connector
Something real weird though is my temp gauge in the cab reads warm when the truck is definitely NOT warmed up.
Do you guys have any suggestions? I have done extensive research on here and Pirate4x4 and have done what alot of people have said to do pertaining to this problem.
Thanks in advance,
Leon
I have ever thing plugged back in except the vacuum hoses to the Bi-metal Vacuum Switching Valve (BVSV) because I accidentally broke it
The truck sometimes starts but will only idle for at most 20 seconds. If i press the gas pedal, it will die immediatly.
Here is what I have done/checked:
- I currently have no ECU codes.
- I checked the AFM by stealing my buddies and trying using his because his truck runs amazing. Didn't help.
- I adjusted the TPS.
- I have also have the ignition timing set to 5 degrees.
- My fuel pump turns on when I use the Fuel Pump Test Connector
Something real weird though is my temp gauge in the cab reads warm when the truck is definitely NOT warmed up.
Do you guys have any suggestions? I have done extensive research on here and Pirate4x4 and have done what alot of people have said to do pertaining to this problem.
Thanks in advance,
Leon
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Just got done putting a new fuel filter (that sucked). Still acting the way it was.
Verified the fuel pump was coming on though.
I also tried to start the truck without the Cold Start Injector plugged in. The truck wouldn't start at all.
I also have a Code 6 RPM SIGNAL-NO SIGNAL TO ECU FROM DISTRIBUTOR.
So, what would make the injectors not work and how do I get rid of the Code 6. I am obviously getting spark because I can get the truck to run with the Cold Start Injector connected.
Verified the fuel pump was coming on though.
I also tried to start the truck without the Cold Start Injector plugged in. The truck wouldn't start at all.
I also have a Code 6 RPM SIGNAL-NO SIGNAL TO ECU FROM DISTRIBUTOR.
So, what would make the injectors not work and how do I get rid of the Code 6. I am obviously getting spark because I can get the truck to run with the Cold Start Injector connected.
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So.....I am stuck.
1. The truck will idle for about 10-20 seconds with the Cold Start Injector plugged in. Seems to idle pretty well for those 10-20 seconds.
2. The trick WON'T idle if i disconnect the Cold Start Injector.
Points to the real injectors not opening, ya?
3. I have a Code 6 - RPM SIGNAL-NO SIGNAL TO ECU FROM DISTRIBUTOR ("Ne" OR "G") AFTER ENGINE HAS BEEN CRANKED
This obviously causes the injectors not to open because the ECU can't calculate the engine speed, ya?
4. I have tested the Coil and the Distributor by getting my voltage/ohm meter out and testing the points specified in the manual.
5. The Spark plugs are definitely getting spark because it will idle with the Cold Start Injector plugged in.
6. When idling the Tach does give the RPMs. What does this mean?
I have pulled the fuse to the ecu many times to reset the code but it just comes back.
Do you guys think that my truck won't run because of the injectors not opening?
If so, what do you think could also cause this?
I am seriously running out of ideas
1. The truck will idle for about 10-20 seconds with the Cold Start Injector plugged in. Seems to idle pretty well for those 10-20 seconds.
2. The trick WON'T idle if i disconnect the Cold Start Injector.
Points to the real injectors not opening, ya?
3. I have a Code 6 - RPM SIGNAL-NO SIGNAL TO ECU FROM DISTRIBUTOR ("Ne" OR "G") AFTER ENGINE HAS BEEN CRANKED
This obviously causes the injectors not to open because the ECU can't calculate the engine speed, ya?
4. I have tested the Coil and the Distributor by getting my voltage/ohm meter out and testing the points specified in the manual.
5. The Spark plugs are definitely getting spark because it will idle with the Cold Start Injector plugged in.
6. When idling the Tach does give the RPMs. What does this mean?
I have pulled the fuse to the ecu many times to reset the code but it just comes back.
Do you guys think that my truck won't run because of the injectors not opening?
If so, what do you think could also cause this?
I am seriously running out of ideas
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I am pretty convinced that my real injectors are not firing but can't figure out why. I also am getting a code 6 which is for RPM signal not found. I checked most everything for that and it looks good and when I can get it to idle i DO get signal to the TACH as the needle shows the rpms when idling.
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