I just picked up a 1984 P/U and it has 2 in lift springs on it. It pulls to the right and I noticed its missing the torque rod. I tried to fit the torque rod off my 1980 to the 1984. Its too long. In my mind I was thinking it should need to be longer due to the lift. This sound right? Is there something I should look into that might need to be addressed? I don't want to cut and sleeve a stock rod to later find out I have other issues.

Thanks
Mike

 

Most guys including me remove the torque rod after a lift. My 84 in avatar has no torque rod. It drives fine. Highway and trails.

 

No pulling to the right under hardish braking?

 

That would be more of a braking issue then a torque rod issue IMO. The torque rod is basically for axle wrap under hard braking which if in correct means that your springs could bend or bow to the weight shifting forward on the hard braking meaning you really shouldn't get much pull unless one caliper is sticking more then the other. I may be wrong on this but I don't think I am. I have had no issues at all and I'm sure others will probably say the same. But like I said I may be wrong. Hopefully someone else steps in here

 

I believe the torque rod helps against the pulling to one side under breaking but that only applies if you dont have cross over steering? Dont quote me on it though, something about the push pull under breaking without the torque rod has a bad effect.

 

No issues here with pulling during braking. No torque rod. Plenty of lift and 35's.

 

. . . . .

 

Whenever you lift a truck you change chassis geometry. That is why most experienced manufacturers supply a complete kit with all of the components included to make sure it gets installed right and is safe. To mount your Torque Rod you need to purchase an extended bracket or an adjustable Torque Rod. Most extended brackets are good for up to a 3" lift and most adjustable Torque Rods are good up to a 4" lift. I read we amazement sometimes what some people do to their trucks and I just hope I am never on the highway near them. People should save their money and do things right and safe the first time.

 

On my 85, the stock torque rod is a little longer than the mount. Almost by half an inch. I bent mine into "S" shape to shorten it. After that, I start having turning with hard braking. Believe that Toyota made the torque rod slightly longer than the mounting bracket to preload the torque rod. That way, under braking, the axle does not rotate and cause the truck to steer.
Another reason to have to torque rod is to save the steering arm. Especially with a lift, the stock drag link is already at the angular limit. If the suspension drops down, the drag link will run out of angle travel and break something. Usually the steering arm. If the driver side wheel drops down and you hit the brake, chances are the drag link will run out of travel and place a large load on the steering arm. Torque tube will at least prevent the axel from rotating and using up more travel on the drag link.
Of course, all this issue goes away with cross over steering.
Hope this makes sense.