Watch the video and give opinions please. I had a head gasket go bad. Really bad. Rebuilt the head, new cam, new everything up top. Noise is coming from cylinder 4 area. Rear cylinder. It does get quieter at times. Definitely is not simple valve tick noise. There have been a few short times the knocking has gone away and the motor is silent. It will still tick when rpms increase. Will also sometimes get quiter almost silent after driving it a bit. It's not crazy loud like it's about to throw a rod... But does sound "to me" like it's lower than the head. I have not removed the rod caps to check bearing.. But that is possibly the next option. Please let me know what you think. Here is the link to my video on my Google Drive. Thanks everyone!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxDow1--21tVZFNQSThjYVJPVHM/view?usp=drivesdk

 

sounds like you need to adjust your valves

 

They are adjusted perfectly to spec and there is zero noise from that... I just rebuilt the head and after breaking the cam in, I even rechecked them. Exactly where they're supposed to be..

 

I couldn't say about the sound and where's it's coming from, but I'd suggest a mechanic's stethoscope as an inexpensive way to help you narrow down the source, assuming you haven't done that already. They're only a few bucks and a lot less trouble than dropping the oil pan to inspect the rods.

Cheers,

 

That's what I did to find out and describe to you where it is. Sound is loudest between thebase of the head and the oil pan. Cylinder 4. Only thing it could be is valve itself , piston or rods.

 

I have the same noise and my valves are perfect. Only had this 87 runner for a few months but have paperwork from the P.O. for a remanned engine about 40k miles ago. Some times its quiet/loud or knocks really bad on startup before the oil pressure builds up. Sounds like rod bearings or wrist pin play from rod to piston, also in cyl 4. Im just driving it until it craps out then Ill do a full rebuild. Havent gone much more into it since there are other issues I'm working out.

Good luck, please update this thread if you find the problem. Thanks.

 

Ended up being the actual rocker arm shaft's minor wear and the original hole/groove was not supplying oil at enough pressure to make the rocker float around the shaft. replaced the rocker shaft and the rocker and you cannot even hear the motor run =)

had nothing to do with the valves or the motor or anything else. this is why even though the motor had new rockers and shafts 40k miles ago, they should still be replaced after you blow the head gasket or anything else that might cause inadequate oiling or anything to the top end of the motor.

 

I have had heads resurfaced and repaired but any more I am coming to the conclusion that after all of the head work that it is about cheaper to replace the head. You can get a new head with all new valves, cam and rockers.

 

It was an engnbldr new head. When I rebuilt the motor the first time I got new rocker assembly. Due to the gasket failure it affected the rocker and shaft. Therefore I replaced them and it is perfect now.

From my personal experience, I know it is cheaper and a better choice to just replace the head with an engnbldr one. It makes the truck run amazing. Always replace rocker assemblies when replacing the head. I only had 40k on my new assembly though, so i replaced the part that was bad and I feel it wasnt worth buying a whole new assembly again because everything else was pristine.

 

22re? if you can't hear any valve train noise when the engine is fully warmed up, i'd be wondering if they are adjusted too tightly.

loose valve adjustment won't hurt things, it just lets the valve rest on the head longer, which cools it more.

agree about the engblder head replacement, hassling with old aluminum heads and valves can get dicey.

 

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