Has anyone had trouble replacing the rear wheel cylinder? I have no experience with drum brakes but it seemed like a pretty easy job. I even called one buddies who has done quite a few brake jobs but he couldn't seem to figure it out either. Here is a pic. Hopefully someone knows how to fix this because I have resorted to yelling and banging my head against the wall.



There is just not enough clearance to slide it out and replace it with a new one. Do I need a puller so I can gain the 1/2" of clearance I need?

 

Remove the line, remove the bleeder, remove the 4(?) bolts holding it in, and slide it out. It doesn't need to come out very much to be able to slide out to the left or right. I've never had to use a puller of any type. Sometimes a deadblow to knock it loose, but that's it. And I recommend putting a little antiseize on the threads of the little retaining bolts when you reinstall. If you're really careful, a little antiseize on the line and bleeder threads(only!!) is a good idea also.

 

That is exactly what I thought I was getting myself into. The problem is the bore of the cylinder seems like it is larger than normal. At first I thought it was the fitting from the brake line catching so I un-threaded the fitting into the cylinder to try to make some more space. The body of the cylinder is getting caught up on the backing plate. I don't care about the cylinder so I am willing to beat it out I just don't want to bend/hurt the backing plate if it will affect how the brakes work.

 

I just did mine yesterday. Like stated above, remove the line, (2) bolts, and bleeder. Then it will come out far enough to slide one way or the other.

For me it was important to remove the bleeder for removal. Did not have enough clearance with it in.

It might also take some elbow grease and some manipulation, but it will come out.

Mark

 

I just reread your post and realized I didn't mention something.

I too had the same issue with the body seeming to large of a diameter. I had to rotate the cyl out and down before I could slide it out from the side.

Hope that helps.

Mark

 

Gizler00 thank you for your help. I was able to get it out after using about 1/2 a can of WD-40 to free up all the hardened gunk and then I had to remove the bleeder and rotate it out like you said. I think I was just being too gentle. I am used to working on RX-7's that break if you look at them the wrong way. These Toyota's need a little more muscle I guess...

 

No problem. Glad I could help.

Mine was so rusted and gunked up from leaking that I used a whole can of brake Kleen just to get most of the crap out if there.