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Bad day today, my brand new 20r fit for weber intake manifold doesn't fit! The thermostat hosing is facing right at my fuel pump.
I don't know what intake i have now. My intake the housing bolts for the thermostat are about 90 degrees to the bolt on flange for the head , where the new one the holes are about 20degrees toward the rear................all the 20r manifolds I'm looking at on ebay are the same way........so what mainfold do I have? a 22r? will it fit a 20r head?
I really wish I knew what the PO did here.
Help!
If the carburetor and intake manifold are from the same engine, the carburetor could tell us more about what the intake manifold came from.
The carburetor looks to be from an early 22R, being the same style as the late 22R carburetors except it has the Idle Compensator Valve which the later 22R carburetors don't use.
If I remember correctly, the 20R intake manifold had round intake ports, where this manifold has the rectangular intake ports.
Other than that, I do not know. Like you said, the previous owner did some weird things so who knows where the intake manifold came from.
I can't put them side by side, the new one is on the engine right now, that's when I noticed I had a problem with the thermostat housing.......Also, if you look at my old manifold it doesn't have that slot in it between the #1 and #2 intake ports.........all other 22r have that slot
This one is from ebay
Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; 05-08-2018 at 08:07 PM.
If I remember correctly, the 20R intake manifold had round intake ports, where this manifold has the rectangular intake ports.
[/QUOTE]
You're correct, the 20r intakes had round ports........So what the heck do i have here, a 22r is not supposed to fit on a 20r head, I know the head is a 20r because in has round exhaust ports not the pear shaped on a 22r
I'm so $%&**(((^%% confused..........
Ok
So here's what I figured out I have, a 20r block, stamped, I have a 20r head, round intake and exhaust ports, and the PO had a 22r intake manifold on it. Now, I must have read about a dozen threads from different sites which say "you can't put a 22r intake on a 20r head" WELL kids I got news for all of you "you can" and it works!
Anyway, I'm glad I got to find out what was going on. Just good old stupidity!
Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; 05-09-2018 at 06:57 PM.
Ok
So here's what I figured out I have, a 20r block, stamped, I have a 20r head, round intake and exhaust ports, and the PO had a 22r intake manifold on it. Now, I must have read about a dozen threads from different sites which say "you can't put a 22r intake on a 20r head" WELL kids I got news for all of you "you can" and it works!
Anyway, I'm glad I got to find out what was going on. Just good old stupidity!
Here's what the "you can't put a 22r intake on a 20r head" might mean - given the info here.
1) obviously the one you have can and will bolt on - all that means is the bolt pattern is the same.
2) the engine will run.- that means the ports match enough so air/fuel mixture will flow through to the combustion chamber.
and, not to piss on your parade route . . . but
3) that does not mean: a) the ports match as designed, b) the ports flow as efficiently as designed.
Not a big deal, you're not raining on my parade. The point was that "they" all say that it can't be done meaning to me, it wont even bolt up and "somewhat" work. I know it's not right, square ports matched up to round ports, thats crazy. When I bought it other then the Aisin bad carb, when it warmed up it ran rather good. Efficient, hardly about 7 MPG...........But it ran
Now that everything matches round to round ports and the new Weber on it, it should be 1000% better............well maybe 100%
Can't wait but I'm a ways away. I'm going to see if I can finish the engine and finish cleaning up the transfer & tranny, bolt everything up, drop it in the frame and without the cab on, fire it up. All my wiring is on the floor so I can route the wires I need and see if I can start it up. check for leaks, and such. I don't believe I've ever read or seen anybody do that before.
Not a big deal, you're not raining on my parade. The point was that "they" all say that it can't be done meaning to me, it wont even bolt up and "somewhat" work. I know it's not right, square ports matched up to round ports, thats crazy. When I bought it other then the Aisin bad carb, when it warmed up it ran rather good. Efficient, hardly about 7 MPG...........But it ran
Now that everything matches round to round ports and the new Weber on it, it should be 1000% better............well maybe 100%
Can't wait but I'm a ways away. I'm going to see if I can finish the engine and finish cleaning up the transfer & tranny, bolt everything up, drop it in the frame and without the cab on, fire it up. All my wiring is on the floor so I can route the wires I need and see if I can start it up. check for leaks, and such. I don't believe I've ever read or seen anybody do that before.
Yup sounds like it's all in alignment now.
My bet would be that the 7mpg had more to do with the manifold situation than the carb. Fuel was likely falling out of suspension and pooling near the manifold/head interface.
Have you opened up the Weber and recorded what jetting is in there?
Have you opened up the Weber and recorded what jetting is in there?[/QUOTE]
No, not yet. In my rebuild thread I just placed it on the manifold, not bolted. Do I just loosen the 6 screws on the top and it comes off? Like I said, I get a little nervous about taking a carb apart. I need to watch some youtube on how to take one apart without screwing something up. If you know of any just post a link.
.I haven't bought the high altitude kit yet either, it's on my next purchase list.
Have you figured out what jets we're going to use?
Do I just loosen the 6 screws on the top and it comes off? Like I said, I get a little nervous about taking a carb apart. I need to watch some youtube on how to take one apart without screwing something up. If you know of any just post a link.
One of the advantages of the Webers is they're simple. Don't worry it's just the top screws to see into the bowl etc.
- relax and enjoy a cool beverage while watching. But no popcorn - you don't want that stuff getting in your carb.
Originally Posted by NYHumpinUtah
.I haven't bought the high altitude kit yet either, it's on my next purchase list. Have you figured out what jets we're going to use?
Where is this "high altitude kit" unicorn you've mentioned - link me. It can only be the - buy a bunch of jets and we'll make a bunch of money type deal.
Jetting a Weber, like other carbs, is not just about altitude. The level of prep the engine is at (bone stock or full race) is part of the process.
There's rarely a wham bam fix or product.
I was just watching that, It really doesn't show him just taking off the top to get to the jets Couldn't find any on re-jetting the 32/36. Maybe you should do one!
Ps. My cool beverage will be water, and I don't do popcorn anymore
Here is the kit https://www.lceperformance.com/Produ...35029&CartID=1
Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; 05-11-2018 at 07:50 PM.
I was just watching that, It really doesn't show him just taking off the top to get to the jets Couldn't find any on re-jetting the 32/36. Maybe you should do one!
Ps. My cool beverage will be water, and I don't do popcorn anymore
Here is the kit https://www.lceperformance.com/Produ...35029&CartID=1
Yes, you have to remove whichever choke mechanism you have - again simple. Take some pics for reassembly especially one of the linkage rod - there is a bit of an insert and turn to get it off and on. And for ˟˟˟˟'s sake don't wear surgical gloves - it's a carburetor not hazardous waste.
First things first, before you think about that kit you need to know what you are starting with. It is what I thought it is and you're gonna end up with a bunch of extra un-needed jets.
Have a beer or maybe RAD4 will offer a nice beverage.
Yes, you have to remove whichever choke mechanism you have - again simple. Take some pics for reassembly especially one of the linkage rod - there is a bit of an insert and turn to get it off and on. And for ˟˟˟˟'s sake don't wear surgical gloves - it's a carburetor not hazardous waste.
First things first, before you think about that kit you need to know what you are starting with. It is what I thought it is and you're gonna end up with a bunch of extra un-needed jets.
Have a beer or maybe RAD4 will offer a nice beverage.
Alright, maybe tomorrow night I will bring it in and take it apart, no gloves,no popcorn, LOL and if Rad4 ever gets here maybe a cold beverage. It's a manual choke so I think that makes it easier...............yes?
And yes, I watched that one, that's easy changing those out, you don't have to take anything apart! And the word simple is (only if you know how to do it) simple!
Alright, maybe tomorrow night I will bring it in and take it apart, no gloves,no popcorn, LOL and if Rad4 ever gets here maybe a cold beverage. It's a manual choke so I think that makes it easier...............yes?
And yes, I watched that one, that's easy changing those out, you don't have to take anything apart! And the word simple is (only if you know how to do it) simple!
Yes there are less parts to deal with on a manual choke.
Far as jets go I still have 5 or 6 DGs in my shop - maybe we could work on a trade type deal. Do you still have the altitude adjustment link I posted?
Rad confirmed, should be here on the 16th, why don't you join us?
I wish I'd known earlier I'm on a good $$ job at the moment. Also, I'm not close to the AZ/UT border - it's about 375 miles 1 way.
Say Hey to the RAD4 nut for me.
05-08-2018, 06:51 PM
