live4soccer7

So, I've gotten to this point and I put my rotor assembly on with the oil seal and the two bearings. I put the spindle nut and torqued it to 43 ft-lbs like is says in the manual then I gave it a few good turns both ways and then loosened the nut until I could turn it with my hands. The seal drag read around 10 lbs. I then torqued the nut to 18 ft-lbs as stated in the fsm and then placed on the lock washer and other spindle nut. I then torqued the outer spindle to 33 ft-lbs and retested the drag. It was now about 19-20 lbs. This doesn't seem quite right. According the manual I'm within spec from the original measurement of 10lbs (says I must be 6.6-12.3 lbs over the first test).

I went and measure the other side because I haven't taken it apart and it's like 5lbs. That's with the caliper still on there (guess that could be why I'm rebuilding).

Any ideas or input on those numbers?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

If you are following the FSM then you are good. New stuff is going to "loosen" up over time like the old side.

live4soccer7

Alright, thanks....

waskillywabbit. I know you've rebuilt a ton of these things, just curious on what kind of numbers you get on a final drag pull once you have both of the spindle nuts tightened to spec? Just looking for a ballpark for my own satisfaction and easement, know that mine are at least close.

Should have the rest of the hub assembled tomorrow and then I get to see how fast I can do the other site.

whokrz

When I repack/rebuild mine I follow the FSM. After about 2 weeks they seem to settle in and are slightly loose. At that time I follow the FSM again on the torque spec and pull scale without removing the bearings. After the second time they are nice and snug with no play and they seem to stay that way.

live4soccer7

What kind of measurements are you getting for the final pull with the scale?

whokrz

Don't quote me on it but I think mine was around 10-12lbs. It was at the top end of the spec, but I like to have mine snug for big tires. I would set it to spec and run it for a week or two. Then jack up the tire and wiggle it. I can always feel a very slight amount of play after the first time. Then I retorque it with the pull scale and a torque wrench. I doubt that most bother I am just a little on the paranoid side.

eugenedbrooksiii

What vehicle are you working on?

The FSM for the 91 4x4 truck lists the front wheel bearing pre-load at 6.4 to 12.6 lbs. It does not indicate that this should be in addition to any earlier measurement of the seal drag. The first nut is tightened to this pre-load and then the second nut is torqued and the pre-load is checked again. Invariably, the pre-load will go up when you tighten the second nut because it will take up some of the thread clearance on the first nut. If the pre-load has increased out of range you have to adjust the first nut and try again. You avoid having to try again by adjusting to the light end of the pre-load on the first nut, leaving you in range when you tighten the second "lock" nut.

If you are getting a 10 lb front the seal drang alone I would be worried that something is wrong. Are you pulling on the scale in a direction that is tangent to the bolt circle?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Look at the forum section. Only SFA here.

I go mostly by feel and how well it spins but you will get 10-20 lbs of pull. Gotta remember you are testing the pull with a fish scale.

live4soccer7

Yes, I am pulling tangent. Here is how I got the drag seal. I torqued the spindle nut to 43 ft-lbs, turned it a few times and then backed it off until I could turn it by hand and then took my measurement. It was about 10lb on the drag force. Then when I snugged it up to 18lbs and then torqued the outer nut to 33lbs, the force became nearly 20lbs to move the rotor. There isn't much that you cam mess up on assembly. There are two bearings and an oil seal. THey are in the right directions and the oil seal it seated. Both races were fully seated also and the bearings were packed with grease and the oil seal was coated with grease as well (as stated in the FSM).

It's an 84 4runner.

live4soccer7

It's a pretty stiff to turn it. If I turn the other side it almost turns effortlessly (haven't rebuilt that side yet either).

eugenedbrooksiii

Sorry, I landed in the wrong forum in error.
The specs are obviously different for the earlier truck,
but your measured seal drag seemed high.
Did you grease the lip of the seal?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Just busting your chops. IFS and SFA assembly are pretty much the same in regards to wheel bearings.

If you are following the FSM you are fine. It will loosen up once things heat up and get settled in.

live4soccer7

I'm thinking the oil seal may not be completely set b/c I can't get the snap ring on that goes on after the hub body. That would be the only explanation b/c I torqued the spindle nut to 43 and that should have seated everything when I did that step. I'm guess it's just barely not seated. It seemed just above flush with the surface which it was seated in.

drew303

Did you pull the Birf out? IE put a bolt in the threaded end of it so you can pull it out and then slip the snap ring on.

The oil seal regardless wont effect how far out the birf can go..

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Yep. The axles wiggle a bit so pull the axle out a tad with a bolt in the end or use some plers and then the snap ring should go on there. It is still a tight fit but without the snap ring you will destroy the oil seal quickly from axle movement in and out.

live4soccer7

I guess I never thought of that. I would NEVER put the rest of it together without the snap ring