84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

How bad is this HG failure?

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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:05 PM
  #1  
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How bad is this HG failure?

Long story short: timing cover hole, coolant in oil, had to drive it home (one of those days), overheated, headgasket failure. And yes, I already know I'm an idiot.

Looking back on it, I believe I ran it for several days with coolant in oil. There was large amounts of coolant/oil in the intake manifold, head, and block (lots of water/oil mix when I drained the oil).

My concern is the amount of time water was in the motor (while running) and having bearing failure a few weeks after sewing this thing back up.

I'm at a decision point: should I proceed with the HG and see how it goes? Or should I just cut my losses and pick up a long block? Are there any other tests or things I can check to help my decision?

Also, there is a ton of build up on the pistons (more so than some of the other pics I've seen); should this be cause of concern?

(Of course, I'll be checking deck and head, etc. before I continue with HG)

Thanks!

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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 01:42 AM
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
How much coolant do you think was in the oil? A small amount is one thing, gallons is another.

Last edited by rworegon; Oct 12, 2013 at 08:03 AM.
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 05:57 AM
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Shows how tough the 22r is right here!... When i first got my truck I went through the same issue as you did. I was inexperienced with the 22r and ran it for about 1000 miles like that. My head gasket blew and i was leaking into cylinder no. 2, just like you i did not notice for sometime. I ran about 1000 miles, filling up the radiator every time i filled up fuel. Now i had the truck barely 3 weeks and had been fixing a million other problems as well. After a few good dudes on here lead me to know my HG blew i replaced it. 300 miles later it blew, then my oil pan seal, i replaced that. it blew again and i noticed gold flakes in the oil from the bearings... needless to say it was over at that point. Rebuild the bottom end as well is my advice!
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by rworegon
How much coolant do you think was in the oil? A small amount in one thing, gallons is another.
Originally Posted by ojm3
Shows how tough the 22r is right here!...
Agree with both above.

Rebuild the bottom end as well is my advice!
I've just been through this decision process, so my 2 cents... depends.

Since you already have the head out, just inspect bottom block if needing a rebuild.

Earlier, I could not find a local rebuilder so I was really interested in getting 22RE Performance's Stage 2. However, leadtime is too long for me, and on last minute someone recommended a shop with only good reviews who would do above for me. So, Ruby Tuesday's in the shop now, getting her engine rebuilt.
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 07:02 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Antifreeze will destroy the bearing material.

If it was just plain water you might squeak by myself I would not take the chance.

May as well fix it all now.
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
Antifreeze will destroy the bearing material.

If it was just plain water you might squeak by myself I would not take the chance.

May as well fix it all now.


Agreed!

Just go ahead and do it now to save yourself the frustration. You'll have better piece of mind knowing is fresh. And if you decide to beef up the camshaft and valve train you know the bottom end can handle it. You'll test easy knowing the bottom won't blow 3k miles after a new top end.
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 08:51 AM
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Originally Posted by lmc
There was large amounts of coolant/oil in the intake manifold, head, and block (lots of water/oil mix when I drained the oil).
Re-reading, I noticed "lots of water/oil mix"....yes, it's time to do the lower end too, IMO.
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
Antifreeze will destroy the bearing material.

If it was just plain water you might squeak by myself I would not take the chance.

May as well fix it all now.
Originally Posted by rworegon
Re-reading, I noticed "lots of water/oil mix"....yes, it's time to do the lower end too, IMO.
Now I concur. Might as well re-build. On mine, shop found typical wear on my cylinders and I have no maintenance record from PO, so I decided to have complete rebuild (with metal timing chain guide), and replace everything to protect the engine from overheat- new hoses, water pump, belts, radiator (because it's got a repaired rad on there).
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 11:11 AM
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From: San Antonio, Tx.
a set of main and rod bearings with thrust washers is only $70. I just did mine and it was SUPER easy, just had to go slow to get everything to seat properly. bearings are cheap, replacing a failed rotating assy isnt.

if your's look like the top bearings you'd might as well replace em.
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 10:34 PM
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Alright guys, I really appreciate the insight

It's time for me to get off the tit and finally do some real work.

So this is gonna take some time (family first, need to acquire a few tools, etc.) which I don't mind as this isn't my DD.

Where should I start (aside from the obvious of pulling the block, etc.)? Do I disassemble and then take the head and block in for inspection? Or, can I do some of the inspection myself first to see what I really need?

From your experience, whats a next good next step here?

How does your interaction with a machine shop usually go for a rebuild? I've read various ways people go about the rebuilds and different phases that they leave to the shop. I certainly want to learn and get my hands dirty, but I'm also well aware that some things must be left to the professionals.
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 08:15 AM
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If your going to rebuild yourself by the book I advise you set aside enough time to work consecutively to finish in a timely fashion. You dont want it apart for 6 weeks so you can forget what went where. If your itching to start yourself, then pull the motor, take off intake, exhaust manifold, and carb. Then rebuild the carb or swap it. Maybe a new intake or header?
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 08:20 AM
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If you plan on rebuilding yourself by then book, i guess you could pull the head, send it off to be machined, new valve guides, seats, seals, cam, bushings, check your rockers see if they are reusable. At this point might as well get bigger valves and a 3 angle job lol! Of course new springs, aftermarket or not depending on lift...dude i could go on haha
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 07:36 AM
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Thanks, ojm3. Due to family constraints, it's going to be a drawn-out process but I do my best to stay organized and keep a record of what I'm taking apart (lots of pictures as I go).

I'm currently doing some research and homework to get my plan squared away.

How do you like the 261C cam?
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