i retarded the timing a little bit so its now in the midde of where i had it last and fully advanced. runs like crap. or like it used to. hesistation came back, never had it when fully advanced. on a timing light fully adcanced was a good inch and a half off of the little measurement bar. where it is now is about a centimeter past. where i had it originally, 12. im tempted to crank it back to fully advanced because it ran so good but i also wouldn't like to burn the valves. didnt kyle or someone else say it might be a vaccum leak? how would i check those conections?

 

whoops its right up there allright so my question about that still stands. with the motor running? and spray in the diriction into or out of the carb?

 

Vac leak...could well be.

Get some carb spray, it is flamible, so be careful and do it out doors, not it a house or building. I have used carb spray many times with no problems. many other people use it also, so I would not expect problems, but a warning to do it out doors, just seemed like a nice thing to do.

Ok, start the rig, spray the carb cleaner ( a MIST ) no need to coat things. Spray along the intake manifold, EGR vavle, rubber vac lines even spark plugs. Base of the carb where it mounts is also another good place for a vac leak. Again you don't want to coat things, just move along as you spray.

What you are listening for is any change in the motors rpms. If all the gasket are good, the motor will not suck up any spray so the sound of the motor will not change. If the rpms jump of it coughs, you have a vac leak. Spray the area that it jumps at again to verify that is the place.

I won't be on over the weekend. Good Luck.

 

alright did that today. no jump in rpms. covered the whole carb, where carb meets the manifold, and every hose and vaccum i could find. no jumps. if anything the rpms went down but that was when it got sprayed into the top of the carb.

 

Getting in the top and the motor slowing is normal. Sounds like there is no vac leaks. So week spark, maybe bumped a spark plug putting it in and changed the gap, or back to timing. I saw another thread in the off topic area, it may be of use to you.

Look for

4wheeler Problems...etc....
RednekYank,

or the link below may get you to it.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f185/4wheeler-problems-im-out-ideas-80841/

 

my problem is different i think. i adjust his carb and everything was well. my carb was rebuilt and tuned by my mechanic. so all of that should be in good working order. i just dont know what to do, its really annoying me how i cant figure this out. i thought for sure it was going to be a vac leak. whats next on my list is to put the timing back at 12 degrees like my manual says and then crank the idle up to where it was idling at fully advanced and see if that does anything.

 

retarted the timing back to stock. cranked idle up. no hesistation. but it does backfire now. could the EGR be bad? also, is there a timing vac. that when i accelerate it advances the timing a little to get it going or something like that. that could also be a culpret if it exists. ive noticed it ran a lot better and had a better low end with the timing advanced. now it seems to bog down all the time. any ideas?

 

did some more tinkering. borrowed my buddies timing light and played with the timing and the idle. got the timing at 12 degres like my repair manual says to and got the idle at my magical non hesitation rpm of 1100 to 1400, somewhere in there. it tends to fluxuate a little. revved the motor and the timing advanced as the motor revved. so if my guess was correct those vaccums are working or something else moves the pully i dont know but it moves and im pretty sure thats good. havnt driven it yet. test drive will be to school tommorow.

 

Vac-advance hose should hook to the top of the dist. There is a metal nipple for it to go on. You should be able to see the hose, by just looking at the dist.

Sounds like the vac- advance is working as the timming is moving.

Does back fire now...
When you press the gas fast, what does the motor do. Act like its going to rev up, then just die down and slowly build up rpms?

Motor rpms jump up and continue to climb with no misses or pops.

Motor rpms jump and then the motor bucks and runs ruff.

....The slow climb back up shows retared

....Rpm's climb and motor stays constant...is how it should be

....Motor jumps to life then craps out a bit...too far advanced.

EGR?? could as it plays with the air/fuel mixtures going into the motor. if it's clogged and not letting enough air get by, that could cause the lag in power.


Again I suggest you put #1 at top dead center and pull the cap off the dist and see where the rotor is pointing. if it is not pointing to the right spot, the dist could be off by a tooth. That would help explain why it back fires when set correct.

 

it back fires when i shift and stuff. like when the rpms are high and then when i put the clutch in and the rpms slowly go down, pop pop POP! pop pop.

 

bump. is this the EGR or a badly tuned carb? i know either the gas going through the carb is pushing way too much or its not recirulating the exaust gasses.

 

Manual pump. not too much chance it's pushing way to much. I did some work on my 84 22r this weekend. New gas filter and all new vac hoses. I told the guy to give me 20 feet of vac line for the 22r. So he measures out 5 feet and starts folding the hose to get to 20 feet. At about the 15 foot mark he looks up at me. I smiled and said, ok I know I don't know how much I will need. But I'm dam sure going to have enough. At .48 cents per foot why not.

About 15 feet later, I fire it up and it runs Way Better. I fired it up after changing the fuel filter(checking to make sure it worked before moving on to vac lines) not much differance, but after I changed all the vac lines. WOW.

Some were cracked and some were soft. I wonder if they were collapsing under vacuum. Soft hoses will do that. Anyway it made so much differance in mine I thought I would mention it to you.

 

yea even my brother was looking at my hoses and saying dang! those have to all be original and you should replace them. so what do you think. relace all the hoses first or the EGR vaccum?

 

the guy at autozone said it couldnt be my EGR. i dont konw if i trust him tho. but while i was there i went on a old hose replaceing spree. got 15 feet of vacuum hose. and other small hoses that were craked and turned to plastic hoses. runs better now. the hesistation is officially solved by idle. autozones computer said to put my timing at 8. so i did and at 1k rpm. hesistate. at 8 and 1400 rpm. no hesistation. but it runs alot smoother now thanks to those vac. hoses.

 

Cool,

So 10 bucks in vac. hose and the correct timming has solved the thread???

 

not quite. its back. its back like the freaking terminator. running at 8mm and 1400 rpm its back. tommorow im going to advance it back to 12. it probably will run better. my old guetto repair manual is the original toyota manual from 1985. i dont know what reading autozone has but at 12 it didnt hesistate. probably doesnt make too big of a difference. at least its still on the scale when i had it all the way advanced it was wayyy off the scale. tommorow im gonna call my buddy and borrow his timing light again, set it at 12 and then play with the idle and see how low i can go before it hesistates on me.

 

I'm new to Toyota's so maybe somebody who knows more than me about toy carbs will set me straight but on most carbs you can see a stream of fuel in the venturi when you work the throttle and look down into the carb with the rig not running. That spray is coming from the accelerator pump and is to compensate for the sudden increase in O2 coming in when you open the throttle.

Why not just look into the top of the carb with the truck shut off and work the throttle and see if there's a stream of fuel being injected? It's what I do on every other vehicle I've ever had that had a carb.

You might as well quit screwing around with your timing and idle. IMO you're just masking the real problem with a high idle.

That's my $.02

 

the whole carb is new. the accelrator pump is working and the AAP are working like they should. until i can track down whats really going on, and my starter breaking while wheeling today i dont want to stall in an intersection. i know all im doing is masking it but its working

 

You know that or just because you don't have fuel in that vacuum line you assume that to be true? If you have looked and seen fuel being sprayed into the carb then ok but if not then don't assume.

I would bet any amount of money if it were my truck that it's a carb problem. You don't know anyone with a carb'd toy you could borrow the carb off of? That could narrow it down a ton with an hour's work.

 

so the carb rebuilding mexicans were drunken carb rebuilding. sob. haha. but think about it. old carb and new carb same exact problem. could they have missed/forgot to replace something during the rebuild? i do agree it really really sounds like its the carb but after having it rebuilt the odds of them missing the main problem of why im having my carb rebuilt. doesnt seem likely. and no all my buddies has fuue injected toys. maybe we could trade motors for a while