Distributer is brand new..???
^^darth brian
The cap and rotor, or the hole thing including the shaft that goes down into the motor?

I ask because under the rotor there is moving parts in a dist, we don't see them, but they do move. Right now I'm thinking of the vacuum advance, that small rubber tube that hooks to the top of the dist is where the vacuum for the vacuum advance comes from. That tub supplies enough vac. to move a plat inside the dist, that changes the timing so to speak. So when you step in it, the vac. increases in the tube, it moves the plat so the time the spark gets sent to the plugs changes. Once you get out of it, the vac. lessions and the advance goes back to where it lives when you pull the cap off. So if that rubber line is cracked or not on tight, hooked at both ends, the timing is not being moved ahead, so the motor bogs. Much the same a if you just turned the dist while the motor is idleing standing infront of the rig.

If not the dist, back to EGR.

Something is messing with either the timing or fuel mixture to cause your problem. They say the carbs not bad and the timing is right. other than a leaking intake manifold gasket, carb at the manifold, what other than the EGR could mess with the fuel mixture.

There not real bad to take off. There are three bolts, two across from each other and one down below, then the small pipe that goes into the EGR has to come off, track it back, just two bolts up by the carb. With those 5 bolts removes you can pull the EGR, look to see if it is clogged and then of course look at the connecting pipe. If you pull it you will need two new gaskets, one for EGR and the other for the pipe up by the carb. Depending on how bad the blockage is most can be cleaned with a coat hanger.

EGR..not all 3 bolts heads are the same size...well there not on my 4Runner.

 

i'd start out with a can of carb spray and spray all the vacuum hoses, the base of the carb, and around where the intake manifold meets the head. if spraying any of these spots brings the engine speed up, you've got a vacuum leak.

 

both. the cap and rotor are new and the distributer itself that goes down into the motor. all new.

 

forgot to add, after the install of the new dist. i did the timining according to my '1985 truck and 4runner repair manual.' so im assuming those were the stock settings and it ran better after i did that too.

 

i'd take a look at your spark plugs after some normal driving. that should give you a hint to what's going on inside, better yet, take a picture and post it.

 

what do you mean after normal driving? after a day or two or cruzing around town.

 

while the motor is running?

and spray into the direction inside the carb or out of the carb?

 

I still think the timing is retared a little, as you set it, if you tinker with it, you can reset it again...Right. (thinkng so)

You may wish to just make a quick chalk line to mark were the dist is now. Anyway loosen the 13mm nut, turn the dist to the right (as if tightening a bolt) just a bit. Right advances, Left retards. Tighten the bolt up and take it for a rip. See if any of the hesitation goes away. If yes maybe move it to right some more...unless your happy with it. If it does not help, put it back to the chalk line. Of course you will want it at operating temp.

I keep coming back to timing cause you have changed out so much stuff and I think a vac leak would show at all rpms, not just when you get in it. The complete dist was changed so it "should" be safe to believe the vac-advance is working.

What the heck, it'll take 10 minutes and its free.

 

yea i assume the timing is all stock. i set the crankshaft pulley to TDC of 0 degress. installed the dist. with the rotor in center position. cranked the crankshaft pulley back to 12 degrees. just like my repair manual told me too. ran better but maybe just the slightest adjustment could make the difference who knows.

also that does make sence how it doesnt happen at all rpms. it will only do it from idle to go. if im stopped and right when i hit the pedal... baaaa vroom. little hesitation that some in some very frustration times causes me to stall and look like an idiot who doesnt know how to drive. also note, it hesistates some times not all the time and does it more often when the motor is cold i'll try advancing it a milimeter or two and see if that helps out.

 

alright. been advancing the timing slowly little by little all day long. if is hesistated on me. pulled over and moved it more. current position is allll the way over. cant advance it anymore its on the edge. hasnt hesistated on me YET! dont know if it will again but we'll see tommorow morning when the motor's cold. its running better i may have a little more power. not sure its probably imagination. only thing is idle speed varys from 1200 to 1500. the other issue is did i fix the hesistaion or did the higher rmps make it so that it wont. remember it only did it at low rpm(mainly idle). tommorow if it passes the morning test i'll adjust the idle screw to see if it will still not hesistate at the lower rpm. probably turn it to 8 or 900.

 

You don't want to leave it advanced all the way, you are correct in thinking it's raising your rpms. You can have a dead cylinder and Almost mask it by turning the timing up to far.

When retarded the spark happens after the piston reaches top dead center.
When advanced it sparks before the gas is fully compressed, so it may well be your imation that it has more power. It's just not dieing down before you take off. leaving it advanced is hard on the valves, so put it closer to the spot you started, but advanced just a bit.

Do you have a timing light?
My thought is put it on each wire and let it flash for at least 30 seconds on each wire...looking for a missing flash. A missing flash would be a miss at the spark plug, loss of power. A bad spark plug wire can leak spark when it wants not every time. that is why I say at least 30 seconds.

I bet it starts a little ruffer being fully advanced.

 

i have a timing light but it doesnt work. the spark plugs and wires are all new along with the dist., cap and rotor, igniter, and coil. i wouldnt imagine their being a problem or one of those not working correctly. when advanced just a bit it sill hesistated. i moved it until it stopped. which happened to be all the way. i need to find a timing light somewhere and i'll report on where its firing and like you said look for missing fires which i doubt but hey, with the electrical experecne ive had in this rig. anything can happen.

 

i say that you sell it and get an IFS truck.....haha its running a lot better since you messed with the timing but now we have to adjust the idol....maybe the idol running higher is making it run better?

 

maybe, it would only hesistate at low rpm. about 700-900 or somthing like that whatever my idle was. now it avreges idle at about 1100-1300. how much more gas could i be using now? i dont think its THAT much right?

 

Are you still fully advanced? You really don't want to leave it there. You can turn up the idle a little, but back the timing off from full. When you press the gas peddle you can see a cable move up by the carb. The cable hooks to a piece of metal that moves with the cable. That piece of metal rests on a screw. Turning the screw in will speed up the idle, 11,13K is high for a idle.

Unless you sit and idle for long amount of time, your milage will not change to much with it that high. But you will brun the valves if you leave if full advanced too long.

I was out 4Xing all weekend, finally got to go on roads I've waited 30 years to go down. 22r ran great.

 

yea man these trucks are bullet proof. even though mine doesnt run quite perfectly. its still a champ and crawls over just about anything

 

even if its not pinging is it still bad for the valves?

 

Perviding all is right in the motor, yes. But if something is off as far as the timing internal parts.

You have it all the way to the right. So grab a 13mm loosen the bolt and start turning it to the left. Near the middle of the distance it can move will be colse to correct timing. As you turn the rotor, do it kind of slow, you will hear the motor run smooth. Retard it too far and it will start to run bad again. You will hear a happy spot that the motor does not stumble, or should. Again that will be right right of middle..betting. Try driving it in the spot the motor sounds happiest. You can always advance it some from there as you have.

Early timing the valves are not seated/sealing the intake/exhaust holes like they should be. So they are taking the blast from the gas/spark plug before it was designed to. The heat and compression is escaping the cylinder.

 

could i have possibly been one tooth off when installing the new dist. and the happy spot is all the way advanced because if i was on the correct tooth it would be near the middle? i hope that made sence.

 

I don't know what to say about the 22r on that. I do know most motors don't want to run that way. But your theory kind of makes some since. I guess bring #1 to TDC and see where the rotor in the cap is pointing. If it's off by a tooth, the the rotor will show it.