I can't seem to find what refridgerent (sp)? my 84 4Runner with 22r takes?
and gettin close to the HOT weather again...

 

Being it's an 80's rig, it will most likely take the old very expensive if you can find it at all, R-12 refrigerant.

Think that's the number of it, correct me if I'm wrong.

 

what's the cost for converting to r134??? i think that is right...?

 

Check with a local A/C shop. System needs to be flushed and some components changed.

 

you can get r12 at some shops i believe..

if not you can get it in Mexico..

 

I'am A/C certified tech. Save yourself some money and do most of the work yourself. This is what you need to do if your A/C system is EMPTY: Remove A/C comressor and empty the old oil out of the compressor into a plastic cup. Then use PAG oil with a medium viscosity with roughly the same amount you took out but add an ounce more. Your compressor should not take more than 4-5 ounces of PAG oil. Once you got that done put it back in the truck and if needed replace the o-rings/gaskets. Put the retrofit adapters on your high and low side ports which comes in the kit. Once everything is back together, turn the front of the A/C compressor by hand 10 revolutions. This prevents the compressor from dry starting and seizing. Once you got all that done, all the technician has to do is put it in a vacuum and recharge it. Just make sure you told him what you did. The most critical part of the R134A conversion is the compressor oil. He may have to add an ounce of oil for the rest of the system since only the new oil is in the compressor. Also make sure he puts a dye in the system so if it leaks, he can find it with a UV light. This should save you from paying him to do all that labor. You can actually do it yourself except you need a vacuum pump and they are not cheap. A good used one will set you back roughly $100 but it may not be worth it for you if you are just going to use it one time. I just did my 87 Mustang today and it blows 44*.

James

 

JamesD

I have an 84 and 4 cans of r12.. I live near the border...

I also have a set of gauges...
the AC has not worked in many years.. how hard would it be for me to get it back going.. and I am mechanically inclined.. but have not worked with AC yet..

 

Thanks James, I love this site always find someone who is a professional.
What is the cost for a mech. to test for leaks?

 

By all means stick with the R12 if you can. If it has leaks then you wasted the R12 which is expensive. You need to make sure the compressor has oil in it and it spins over easily by hand. This is where evacuation machine comes in handy. If you got the R12 cheap or for free and it has a leak then you didn't waste much money and you can always convert.

One thing to mention. On older R12 systems when converting to R134A, you will have small leaks through the hoses due to the fact that R134A molecules are actually smaller than that of R12 and the pores of the rubber hose allow over a period of about a year, leak out the R134A. Sometimes it may take a couple of years. Ford's and GM's are known for this when converting. So if the next year the system is low, it may be what I explained and not an actual leak.

James

 

They will charge you for evacuation, recharge and then evacuation again plus the dye. It varies, my old shop charged an hour of labor plus the dye which was roughly $100 just to check for the leak. It can take some time finding the leak.

James