So i've done a little reading on google and on the site for bleeding brakes. Basically what I've gathered:

1.. fill the reservoir up
2. get some of clear tubing to fit the bleeder screw/valve on the caliper
3. fill a small container half full of fluid
4. place the tube in the containter's fluid
5. depress the brakes (someone else do it)
6. open the bleeder valve
7. let the fluid spew through the hose
8. close the valve
9. release the breaks
10. repeat until air or clean fluid is visible.
11. Keep the reservoir full
12. Repeat for each wheel, starting with the longest lines

My questions are:

I removed the front calipers when I rebuilt my hubs/knuckles, do I need to bleed all the brakes (4 total)?

Where are the bleeder valves on the front and rear brakes?

Also, if anyone has any advice or input on the bleeding job, please feel free to chime in because I have not done this before.

 

Basic steps are correct.

Only need to bleed the brakes if you opened up the hydraulic lines.

Bleeder screws look sort of like grease fittings, may have a rubber cap on them, 10mm wrench (flare wrench works the best) to loosen and tighten them.

 

Did you Take the calipers all the way off, or just hang them off to the side. If you took them all the way off you are going to have to bleed the master cylinder first.

Go to Autozone or advance and get the "One man brake bleeder". $10.00 the instructions are pretty plain.

Start at the master cylinder, Use a 10mm line wrench. Soak the fitting down with penetrating fluid. Put the wrench on and tap it counter clock wise with a hammer. The "tap" will set up a vibration and allow you to get the fitting off without stripping it, or damaging the fitting and line. Stick the tappered end of the brake bleader into the center of the port on the MC. Then go pump the brakes slowly about 5 times. If there is no air in the line, quickly pull the bleeder hose, and put your finger over the hole. Then quickly but not so fast the you put the fitting in cross threaded, put the fitting back on, and tighten. Do the same for the other one.

Then take your brake bleeder to the back drivers side, and bleed it. Then the pass rear, then the LSVP, The the Pass front, and then the drivers front. You may have to do all the wheels several times. So be patient.

Do all four tires and get the old crap out. Dont reuse the crap that comes out. And dont let the MC go below the min line. It is a long process but worth it.

Good luck.

 

Thanks, What is the LSVP?

Yes, I opened the hard lines. I can't remember why I did, but I had a good reason at the time. I suppose it will be good to get all the old brake fluid out and changed with new stuff.

 

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ortioningValve

 

make sure the person pressing hte brake pedal down pumps the brakes at least 4 - 6 times everytime before you open the bleeder, if you do it once you will not get much of anythign out. AND MAKE SURE YOU KEEP FLUID IN THE RESEVOUR lol you dont want air in the system

 

Gravity bleeding works great if your by yourself with nobody to help you,
open the first bleeder(rear right side always start at the brake farthest from the master cylinder) and let it stay open till there is no air/bubbling coming out and only fluid coming out close it up go to the next one and repeat till you have them all bleed.

 

mm Good one. I have done a million times the stick jammed from the seat cushion to the pedal, then under vehicle n back to the cab again. Gravity it is, next time.

 

thanks for all the suggestion

 

gravity? how would you bleed them if you dont have the pedal pressed? yes i know SOME will come out but not enough to be efficient right? lol ive always had help lol

 

and remember not to fully compress the brake pedal when pumping it. Its not a clutch

 

I use a one-person vacuum brake bleeder to do mine:
- http://www.jcwhitney.com/DELUXE_BRAK...;0;2004108;0;0

Just pull a vacuum on the bleeder fitting, crack it open and pull fluid through until it is clean and the major air bubbles are out, then close the fitting. I usually pull 4-8 oz. of fluid out at each fitting and that results in flushing the system of old fluid.

 

Vaccume Bleeder? Sounds great!
$74.00!

I'll just have my wife pump the pedal. LOL

 

74 bucks i'll get my dog to help.

 

For some reason those vacuum bleeders have gone way up in price. I think I paid under $30 for mine, very handy for other things, too. It is a vacuum pump and gauge and handy for testing out vacuum operated things on the engine, etc. I actually upgraded my setup last summer by swapping the hand pump for an electric vacuum pump I had sitting around. That makes a sweet setup, a lot faster and you can leave it running while you top off the reservoir with fluid.

But here is one without the gauge for about $40:
- http://www.jcwhitney.com/TUNE-UP_BRA...;0;2004110;0;0

Or they make pressure bleeders that run $100+ that are supposed to work even better. I have one of those but need to make/buy the Toyota reservoir adapters.

 

4Crawler, these links simply carry you to the JC whittney home page. I know thats not your fault. This is just an FYI. Thanks for helping.
aalan

 

They seem to take me to the product page, but if that is not working for you, try searching for "vacuum" and that is where I found the links.