Air Pump
#1
Air Pump
Whats the info on the air pump..
I have a 84 4runner cali build so I have an air pump..
Do I need it?
If I take it off how will it affect my motor, MPG and power?
is it just a cali smog thing?
thanks.
I have a 84 4runner cali build so I have an air pump..
Do I need it?
If I take it off how will it affect my motor, MPG and power?
is it just a cali smog thing?
thanks.
#4
Not really, but it's a little involved bypassing it correctly. It isn?t uncommon for catalytic converters to overheat and glow bright cherry red without the extra air supplied from the air pump to cool it off. I guess you could bypass it and experiment. However, you WILL NOT pass a smog check without one.
Air pumps used in 83 and previous years suck a lot of power and gas. With 84+ setups, there isn't any noticeable difference. Not worth the effort unless you are seriously yearning to un-clutter the engine compartment.
Not by 84. I believe virtually all trucks from 84-95 had air pumps installed regardless of their location in the US. The one and only exception is the 84 22re, which I have.....and the irony is that it's a cali truck. I guess that particular setup was very clean burning and did not require an air pump. It must have to do with EFI setup combined with the older head/block design that made it so clean burning and efficient. 84 22re's had the highest gas mileage rating out of any 22r and 22re ever produced.
Air pumps used in 83 and previous years suck a lot of power and gas. With 84+ setups, there isn't any noticeable difference. Not worth the effort unless you are seriously yearning to un-clutter the engine compartment.
Not by 84. I believe virtually all trucks from 84-95 had air pumps installed regardless of their location in the US. The one and only exception is the 84 22re, which I have.....and the irony is that it's a cali truck. I guess that particular setup was very clean burning and did not require an air pump. It must have to do with EFI setup combined with the older head/block design that made it so clean burning and efficient. 84 22re's had the highest gas mileage rating out of any 22r and 22re ever produced.
Last edited by 84sr5yoty; Oct 6, 2007 at 05:41 PM.
#5
great info .. much appreciated..
I have just been looking to take off any extra spinning parts that might be robbing power and MPG...
I plan on getting rid of the fan and putting on an electic one.. mine right now is mounted on with out the fan clutch.
15 MPG is no good..
what are you getting with the efi set up?
I have been thinking about tapping my head and putting on a efi setup instead of the carb...but I want to know if its worth it first..
I have just been looking to take off any extra spinning parts that might be robbing power and MPG...
I plan on getting rid of the fan and putting on an electic one.. mine right now is mounted on with out the fan clutch.
15 MPG is no good..
what are you getting with the efi set up?
I have been thinking about tapping my head and putting on a efi setup instead of the carb...but I want to know if its worth it first..
#6
Installing a fan clutch on your setup will help you increase your gas mileage both because of fan drag and it will keep that engine at a hotter temp which will burn gas more efficiently.
My 84 is 2wd (first factory produced 22re in a truck) so my gas mileage numbers would give you a heart attack. But if you're interested I get 25-30 in town and 30-35 highway, depending on the speed.
Back in the 90's when the speed limit was still 55 MPH, I could squeak 36-40 MPG on a consistently flat surface going a rock solid 55 MPH. Doing 55 MPH anywhere on California roads would be a suicide attempt these days.
[QUOTE=Outsane;50633546I have been thinking about tapping my head and putting on a efi setup instead of the carb...but I want to know if its worth it first..[/QUOTE]
10-15 years ago I would agree that an EFI swap would be worth the effort. It's a definite NO now. These EFI systems are almost 25 years old and Toyota no longer carries critical replacement parts like new wire harnesses, clips, and connectors. Sensors are still available but at a premium cost. A rebuilt AFM will cost you almost $300 alone which is as a much as a brand new Webber carb.
I'm almost thinking about retrofitting a carb on my 84. It's only a matter of time before things start crapping out due to age. A carb won't leave you stranded because of an electrical or sensor failure, but a malfunctioning EFI system will. The only wearable part on a carb itself is the throttle shaft and that can be re-bushed. There are also a lot of options for brand new replacement carbs available too.
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#8
It wouldn't affect my emissions much if done correctly, but it sure as hell wouldn't pass the visual inspection. That's kinda why I haven?t done the swap. I?m hoping a law will pass where I no longer have to smog it in the next 5 to 7 years. It would be ridiculous to smog vehicle that's nearly 30 years old in my opinion.
#10
i think once a vehicle is 30 years or older it doesnt have to be smogged... im not sure... if anything, while it IS illegal, slip the smog guy a 20 to pass the visual inspection. ive never had to, but i know of people who have. smog in cali is what... every 2 years right? im from cali, i only smogged once every 2 years, out here its once a year... grr.. but im just glad im getting below normal emmisions.
#11
http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/
As for the K&N, stay away from it! They pass too much dirt and actually restrict air flow in the long run. Using a genuine Toyota air filter is the best overall decision to make. Here's an article about tests that were performed on the K&N.
http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=180100
"Compared to the AC, the K&N ?plugged up? nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt."
Personally, it would be best just to get a fan clutch and install it. A cheap one is under $40 and good one, like Back/Arnley, is about $90.
Replace all of your vacuum hoses if they?re original. They have a limited life span and are beyond expired.
Also check the vacuum advance diaphragms. The inner one (closest to the motor) is the one that fails first. Simply apply vacuum (using a vacuum pump or simply sucking on the hose) and make sure they both are holding prefect vacuum.
That should get you started in the right direction.
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