84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

85 runner hesitates and stumbles above 40 mph

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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 12:17 PM
  #1  
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From: Jupiter, Florida
85 runner hesitates and stumbles above 40 mph

When I drive my runner will go 65 but it is bucking and hesitates the whole way there and then I let off the accelerator and hold it to maintain speed and it smooths right out. If I try to accelerate like when a hill comes it starts doing the same thing.

I have new plugs, wires, rotor, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, just blocked off my egr valve (after the problem started), took off my cat and checked it (seems clear, I can see through it pretty well), and replaced the muffler.

I am pretty well sick of taking my friends and family's advice and getting nickle and dimed at the parts strore.

I think that I have gone through pretty much everything like I'm supposed to. Gas, Air and spark. Am I missing anything.

Thanks guys,
Robby
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 08:11 PM
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From: Carson City, Nevada
Originally Posted by Fireball81
When I drive my runner will go 65 but it is bucking and hesitates the whole way there and then I let off the accelerator and hold it to maintain speed and it smooths right out. If I try to accelerate like when a hill comes it starts doing the same thing.

I have new plugs, wires, rotor, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, just blocked off my egr valve (after the problem started), took off my cat and checked it (seems clear, I can see through it pretty well), and replaced the muffler.

I am pretty well sick of taking my friends and family's advice and getting nickle and dimed at the parts strore.

I think that I have gone through pretty much everything like I'm supposed to. Gas, Air and spark. Am I missing anything.

Thanks guys,
Robby
Sounds like your issue happens only under a high engine load, right? Hgher RPM, higher throttle settings? When the fuel demand is the highest?

Get a fuel pressure gauge, and see what the fuel pump is putting out during the failure. I suspect a weak fuel pump.

Ok, wait.. Is this a 22RE or 22R? Is this a WOT condition?

Last edited by martinfan30; Aug 27, 2010 at 08:15 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 08:25 PM
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From: GrangeVille, Idaho
Originally Posted by Fireball81
When I drive my runner will go 65 but it is bucking and hesitates the whole way there and then I let off the accelerator and hold it to maintain speed and it smooths right out. If I try to accelerate like when a hill comes it starts doing the same thing.

I have new plugs, wires, rotor, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, just blocked off my egr valve (after the problem started), took off my cat and checked it (seems clear, I can see through it pretty well), and replaced the muffler.

I am pretty well sick of taking my friends and family's advice and getting nickle and dimed at the parts strore.

I think that I have gone through pretty much everything like I'm supposed to. Gas, Air and spark. Am I missing anything.

Thanks guys,
Robby
Pull the throttle body off and clean it, while its off check and adjust the TPS, or if its bad replace it. A bad TPS can cause the problems your having. Another thing i just thought of is the 02 sensor, if its original or has a lot of miles on it then replace it.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 08:31 PM
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From: Carson City, Nevada
Originally Posted by myyota
Pull the throttle body off and clean it, while its off check and adjust the TPS, or if its bad replace it. A bad TPS can cause the problems your having. Another thing i just thought of is the 02 sensor, if its original or has a lot of miles on it then replace it.
Good advise here.

Throttle bodies get dirty, but the usual result is a sticky throttle, or sometimes IAC issues.

TPS problems... Can cause issues trying to set timing. If the IDL contacts stick open, you cannot get a good reading for base timing. Tap the TPS lightly to try and free it up.

O2 sensor... If there is slow response/non-response from the 02 sensor, you will get a DTC out of the ECU. The ECU's are calibrated quite sensitively to monitor this problem. Bad O2's will not cause a poor running/misfire issue. Maybe a poor fuel economy issue. Thats it.

Last edited by martinfan30; Aug 27, 2010 at 08:34 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 06:29 AM
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From: Jupiter, Florida
Thanks guys,
Get ready because you might have just met the bonehead of the year. I pulled my plugs and plug #1 has a huge cancerous growth connecting the gap. So I put a $3.20 spark plug in and my truck runs like a top.

The "old" plugs only have 3k miles on them so...... Now my question is: is this an issue with the head or rings.

OK Let the flaming begin. I accept full responsibility. You guys rule.
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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 08:08 AM
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From: Carson City, Nevada
Originally Posted by Fireball81
Thanks guys,
Get ready because you might have just met the bonehead of the year. I pulled my plugs and plug #1 has a huge cancerous growth connecting the gap. So I put a $3.20 spark plug in and my truck runs like a top.

The "old" plugs only have 3k miles on them so...... Now my question is: is this an issue with the head or rings.

OK Let the flaming begin. I accept full responsibility. You guys rule.
What did the "growth" look like? Was the plug wet/dry, white, dark?
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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 05:11 PM
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From: Jupiter, Florida
It was white and ashy, and dry but when I broke it off it was black inside.
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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 05:16 PM
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
hmmm this is funny but third time I am posting this link this week. Everybody seems to be having the same types of issues with their plugs. It seems as though I starting things off a few weeks ago when I "tried" running e3 plugs on my carb'd truck. Didn't work out so well, back they went and put my trusted NGK v-powers in.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...qs/faqread.asp

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; Aug 29, 2010 at 05:17 PM.
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 07:39 AM
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From: Moyock,NC
Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
hmmm this is funny but third time I am posting this link this week. Everybody seems to be having the same types of issues with their plugs. It seems as though I starting things off a few weeks ago when I "tried" running e3 plugs on my carb'd truck. Didn't work out so well, back they went and put my trusted NGK v-powers in.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...qs/faqread.asp
I think the e3 plugs are trash I put them in my 911 which has twin webber stacks and the car drove like crap.
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 07:42 AM
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
yeah I don't think they like carb'd vehicles. Some people on here have had luck with them but all of them have 22re's.
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 07:46 AM
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From: Carson City, Nevada
There is no replacement for ND or NGK in my experience.
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 07:56 AM
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I'm running ngk and have had good luck with them in the past.

..........said the newb
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 09:12 PM
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if you are fuel injected take a look at the pulsation damper, they tend to leak out from underneath from the screw and oring causing pressure drops and excessive fuel usage,cutting out at specific RPM ranges but when your not running higher rpms or (checking your fuel pressure) what happens ......no leak, ...stable fuel pressure, just went thru the same crap man and almost went completely nuts figuring it out
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 06:03 PM
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I am going to look at that pulsation damper since you brought it up but I'll tell you what. I blocked off my egr and pulled the plug from the vsv and my truck is a new vehicle. I can't believe more people don't rave about that simple 10 minute free job.

Thanks for the post, now I am going to go find out what the heck a pulsation damper is.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:57 AM
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From: Van Buren, ARKANSAS
I'm running a 22R and forgive me i'm no motor mechanic but can someone explain the EGR valve block off? I've heard of this and would like some more info on it. I'm not running any catalytic converter and have a header (unknown kind) on it.

Thanks for the help.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 07:09 PM
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EGR delete

In a nut shell I simply got some high temp rtv the orange if memory serves me right. But I pulled my egr and layed it on a thin sheet of metal and traced and cut the two sides out. One side on the block down low and one side on the intake. That joker is right against the fire wall so it was kind of a pain in the neck but I got it done. I looked in the egr tube and the carbon in it left a hole that is smaller than a #2 pencil. So I put some RTV on it and bolted it back up. Some guys said they used a soda can for the metal but that seemed a little thin to me but do what you want.

I left my egr fully intact incase it didn't work I could just remove the block off plates and put the modulator back on and be in buisness. Some guys cut the ends off and weld the holes closed to clean the engine bay up a bit. To each his own.

Then all that is left is to remove the modulator and the vacume lines. Then unplug the vsv for it. Look in the manual.

I am no mechanic yet either but we're working on it.

One more thing mine is efi I don't know much about the caruburated models but I'm sure you can just shoot from the hip. With the block off plates you can always remove them and be back to stock. Good luck brother.
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 09:18 AM
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From: Charleston, SC
What did you use to plug the vaccum lines?
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 05:41 PM
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I pulled the vaccum lines off and put rubber caps over the hard lines that come out of the intake. The EGR modulator and rubber lines I placed ever so gently in the garbage can.

The caps were litterally less than a dollar. If memory serves I only needed a small box from advance auto parts. 5 or six I think. I did not need any plugs.

If you need any further help I can take some pics and give you kind of a tutorial or you could just shoot from the hip after reading the manual. Just give me a shout and I'll be glad to help.
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 04:45 AM
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From: Charleston, SC
Thanks brother. I just ordered the $15 EGR delete kit from LCE and it looks pretty self explanitory. I just wanted to know how to block those lines off right w/o making it ghetto.
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