I had my truck stall on me while I was waiting at a light. Had it towed home and started checking everything I could think of. I did a number of searches here and found allot of great advise on what to check and what the problem could be, but I an still am having issues. I have replaced the fuel pump, EFI relay, and ignition module, coil; check all the fuses under the drivers kick panel and under the hood. The only item not replaced is the ECC. Anyone have any suggestions about what I might have missed or something I could check?

 

Could be LOTS you've missed... Depending on how you started, ya know? Sorry man, it's frustrating to have a glitch like this... but just get ready to dig in(WITHOUT throwing any more parts at it) and you'll get it, no doubt!

Obviously it's EFI, lol... So, you have to be more specific as to whether you have "Spark/Fuel/Compression/Timing" on point, ya know?

1. Spark is the easiest to determine and I'd start there.

2. Fuel to the rail and fuel pump activation would be next on my list
...a. I would check the C.O.R.(Circuit Open Relay)... http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ORelayLocation , first thing on this end.(Not as likely as I would think it would be more of a "Wont start from 'engine off' situation", not as likely to stall it out). Anywhooo, you can hear it when you go between STA and actually turning over the motor at the key... it's behind/right of the glove box over the ECU.
...b. Test for fuel pump......... http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump


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That's a start^^^. And, you should find the 'ignition' testing easy to locate in even the Haynes, but in the FSM And multiple threads, it's testing is available. YOu basically want to pull a plug wire and turn it over, looking for white hot spark with the wire end placed next to the block or just arcing off a well insulated screw driver(JUST DON'T DO THIS WITH THE COIL! lol), not dim orange spark... PRIMARILY, 'SPARK AT ALL' is your goal, lol.

 

Another good rule of thumb is if any work was done on it recently, look in that area. Loose ground wires, bad connections, burnt wiring, etc.

Follow ChefYota4x4's advice and check the obvious too (spark, compression). If you have spark and good compression and it won't start, most likely a fuel problem then. If you use ethenol gas, it doesn't take very long for the corrosion to start forming and clog the inlet to your fuel pump.

Good luck.......

 

Thanks gus. I'll re-trace the wiring and see what I can find and make sure I have spark.

 

Good idea to follow wiring back/check polarity/grounds for solidity..... But, keeping it really simple and reading what you wrote, right off the bat, ... "Came to a light and it STALLED".... Sounds to me like something failed. This is a VERY COMMON symptom of a failing Coil. It's happened to me in more than one hot rod, and 2 of my buddies have experienced it with their Toyota's. IF COIL IS BAD-NO SPARKIE! lol ..... IF IGNITOR IS BAD-NO INJECTOR INITIATION. Like I said, .... VERY rarely have I seen a failed Ignitor... Coil is more common. But always check the obvious 'THEREAFTERS' first, after you find either NO SPARK or NO FUEL or NO COMPRESSION(look into it in that order, too<<<< ).

1. Check for spark(self explanatory)

2. If spark is there, check for Fuel(jump the fuel pump testers and listen/maybe crack the CSI banjo to find if there's pressure there)

3. If fuel is there, check that injectors are firing(if the upper 2 are present, THEN your gremlin hunt intensifies JUST a lil bit).

* I'm very curious how it was running before this incident?

* I'm ALSO very curious as to whether or not the C.O.R. can cut off and interrupt fuel pump polarity. (I'll read 4crawlers stuff again, don't remember. I think once it's running, the AFM is keeping the fuel pump running. The C.O.Relay is just that, a relay.... So as I said before, I doubt it's your issue.. But I know Roger/4crawler did write something up on how his went out.... And, well, mine went out as well, lol. I rolled into the auto parts store fine, ... but wouldn't start again. Replaced it, VOILA! And, I'm assuming you don't turn your rig off at every stop light, right? LOL).

 

Thanks for the additional item to check. It was running well before it died. The motor only has 10,000 on it with a slight valve tap, nothing major. I do have another coil to through on. I did find it is not getting spark, so I am working that right now. I will keep you posted.

 

AHHHH, 'No sparky, no worky!', my Masta sayz! lol.

I'd test in this order;

* Coil

* Secondary Coil on Dizzy(does the 94 have that? lol)

* Ignitor

* Wait, ..hmmmm, maybe the rotor exploded? lol.

Best wishes, man! MAN, i sure wish My gremlins would be so easy to pinpoint right off the bat! lol... I KNOW, you still gotta find the cause.

 

Massa very wise. I replaced the ignitor, and check the rotor, it's good. I did replace the coil, but put the old one back in because it was not the corret one. I am going to steal the one off my buddies rig and and see if that works. If not I am going to swap out his ECC and see if that works. He also has an 85 wih EFI.

 

Double check the EFI fuse. Better yet pop a new one in and see if anything changes.

 

Distributor turning?

Check to see that the distributor is rotating during cranking time...

Fuses...

Distibutor pick-up coil signal to ECU lost(RPM Signal)? Faulty connection? Corrosion?

Igntion Coil? Is spark coming directly from the ignition coil igntion cable?

Compression?

Timing chain failure?

 

remember (KISS) keep it simple silly you say you dont have spark check to make sure you have power to the ignitor fuses are good they dont have any corrosion or film on them

 

Not sure how it happened, but the timing chain broke. I guess that is what I get for not getting an OEM part. I will recheck the electrical system once I replace the chain.

 

Eww that sucks... hopefully none of your valves are damaged due to the chain breaking allowing piston to valve contact...