alright replaced the injectors, cleaned the entire intake system, and egr system, vacuum lines are all properly connected, and I changed the oil.

The motor runs fine after idle but at idle it blows and seems like it is going to die all the time, I am going to adjust the idle once it gets hot again to see if that helps but it almost seems like the fuel pump is going bad or something is wrong with the pressure?

what is a good but EASY way to test the fuel pressure or to see if the fuel pump is going bad?

 

replaced the injectors? this seems to be more complex than it has to be. ok if it idles it has: air, fuel, and spark. if it ran fine before you changed the vacuum wiring then its possible you have the routing wrong or something disconnected. also valves are common problems on yota's. you can rent a compression tester at most auto part stores if you dont have one. more than like your too lean, its hard to go rich unless your plugs or timing is jacked. if you spray brake clean into the intake and the idle raises, your running too lean, if it stumbles or dies its too rich... did you try the efi fuse trick?

 

Hey Tyler,

I had a good response, clicked 'reply' and my puter died for the last 3 hours, hahaha.

Anyway, all I was going to say was, "CHANGED the injectors???" lol...someone beat me to it. Then, I was going to say, "Elaborate, in a concise way, listed like...

1. Changed out injectors(cleaned them or what? Not sure what you mean)
2. Swapped out AFM--no change
3. Adjusted TPS--no change
4. adjusted fuel/air set screw(lil better)
5. Adjusted timing(lil better)
6. MADE DANG SURE THAT every vacuum line is in the right place(VERY IMPORTANT, Tyler....as Shaine mentioned. You get them mixed up and it can really screw with things.

Anyway, list out what you've done, like above, so ppl can help do a Process of Elimination with you.

I agree, as well, and I had also mentioned in my disappearing post, "My CAM was the cause of the mystery gremlin/TERRIBLE IDLING dilemma". Could easily have also been valves.

Double check the vacuum routing first, then go over your timing, then verify the fuel filter/pump, then verify you have decent vacuum pressure(looking for leaks with ether isn't a bad idea, either), then....if you're exhausting everything, start going through your EFI system with a multi-meter. BEFORE ANY OF THAT..... take your compression! That can tell HUGE stories, Tyler, ya know?

PS> Did you clean your throttle body with the TPS still attached? BIG no no, if so.

 

Yes I changed the injetors, two of the had cracks in the top around the connectors and were barely hanging on, and the other two were beyond repair, i.e. bent tabs in connectors and cracked ends where the fuel comes out, im thinking the guy that rebuilt this motor before I got it (when my little brother had it and mitreated it), rebuilt from the top of his head and not a book or something!

I have no AFM or TPS to swap out as junk yards do not have old toyotas like this around here, here in south arkansas, the vehicle I have is more like a chunk of gold!
I did test both according to 4crawler's specs and nothing seemed to be out of order.

and what is this fuel/air screw you speak of?

I have no idea how to adjust the timing or how to read it? That is one thing that I dont like messing with on motors! Even though I would feel comfortable tearing the whole damn thing down!

6. Does anyone know where I can find REAL pictures of where vacuums should be hooked up, I have found alot but most are '86s and newer and the hoses are different by quite a bit?

And yes unfortunately i DID clean the damn throttle body with the TPS attached! but I was doing these thing before I even took the intake apart! Any help would be and IS greatly appreciated! AND YES I TRIED THE EFI FUSE TRICK, NO HELP! ALTHOUGH THAT IS SOMETHING I DID NOT KNOW!

Also, I know this may sound retarded but does the AFM need to be adjusted any? and if I pull the cover off of it, what do I use to clean it with? Electrical sensor cleaner? and the more pictures the better! Its easier for me to work with pictures!

 

Tyler you need to invest a few bucks into a haynes or a chiltons manual and they will have all the diagrams you could ever need. That is where I started and once I got the knack for reading it I was able to figure stuff out on my own like how to block off the EGR and remove the EGR modulator. BTW I would use something a little thicker than an aluminum can.

As far as your first post you asked about what to do about the chrome trim 4 crawler has just the solution for you on his website. Probably under his cheap tricks.

IMHO you need to tripple check your vacume line routing. Happy hunting bro.

 

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...rim/index.html

It is usually against my better judgement to just hand out links, instead allowing you to search and learn for yourself. But here is a link to the windshield trim modification.

Never underestimate the power of that search button. You may have to pour through hundreds of builds but I'm sure you will find the pics and info you need. I'm just sayin.

That being said Yotatech guys are the greatest and will try to help you all the way. Yotatech rocks.

 

yah i have quadrouple checked the damn lines, no anger intended towards anyone, andI just can't figure it out! I have a haynes and I read the vacuum diagrams very well, it just seems like there is a mix between the Federal/Canada one California, the way it looks under my hood, I even checked out the one under the hood of my truck and used it!

i think I need to test my fuel pump to rule it out since it is only 25 years old and never been replaced, along with the AFM. It just bugs the piss outa me!

the more and more i find things that were screwed up buy the "Toyota Technician" that rebuilt this motor for my little brother, I want to go beat his head in with a real torque wrench!

 

O and by the way, one night I am going to pul the spark plugs, and the cap and rotor to double check them guys. Anything I should specifically look for?

 

Sorry man.... regarding the TPS thing. Wasn't trying to upset you further.. just sharing a notation that I was slammed with 100 times before I tackled 'troubleshooting' my own rig, by yotatech members, including 4Crawler(Roger Brown).

AFM? DON'T remove that cover or adjuster screw(should not be visible, it's filled with a metal plug). These are VERRRRRRRRRRY sensitive....even more so than the TPS. However, THEY CAN be adjusted, due to altitude, etc., etc. Just make sure that's needed before even trying, ya know? Maybe Roger or someone could lend a more "GURU LIKE" opinion on that one before you attempt something like that, k?

Far as the TPS...... it 'CAN' become jerky when the Throttle Body is cleaned with it on...but it's not ALWAYS going to be so. If all your tests check out ok, even when checking the range while opening the throttle plate, etc., .....then it might be just fine still. PS> Did you set the throttle plate adjusting set screw as instructed in Rogers thread, before you adjusted the TPS?.....or did you just check the TPS readings with a multi-meter?

The Idle/Air adjusting screw is right on the Throttle Body, on top, to the right when standing in front of the motor, and it's got a flathead grove in the top of it. It's probably almost all the way in(level with the housing it's in)...and you might want to turn it out a couple turns to see if that increases your idle. I would think if you cleaned things up, you'd be needing to adjust it back in, because you might have gained more air by cleaning things up....but it's worth a shot to see if it smooths it out for now, until you can figure this out.

Gotta run, but I'll gladly get you pics of anything you want. For now, go to my trouble shooting thread and you'll see plenty of pics.(build thread, too)....they're in my sig.

Take a deep breath and step back, Tyler.... you'll get it, and we'll help as much as we can over the net, ok?

 

yes thanks I have links to almost everyone of his pages saved in my bookmarks or printed out and punt into my sectioned "4rinder" (4Runner Binder) for mods/tips/tech/tricks.

 

There is a full description in your Haynes as to what to look for with plugs. For now, just look for oil, smelling of fuel, ashy color, white color, black colors....then look in the book for the description of what each one leads to. You can pull the plug and put it back in the wire and place it against the steering pump bracket, then check in low light for a GOOD BLUE SPARK...not yellow.

With the CAP, Rotor, ...you're looking for Cracks, moisture, oil, etc. Also, look to see if the rotor is shaving away the contacts in the top of the cap, k?

 

ok wont remove the cover to the AFM just yet, although I do have clear silicone standing by.
As far as the idle adjusting screw I gotcha on that one, adjusted it out and its rough as hell on idle still.

And I think I missed a step on the throttle plate adjusting screw, will go back and double check that one, because I just checked the readings with my multi-meter. thanks!

Im reading over all 1025 pages of the 1985 FSM and going to print what I need today at work! haha

 

 

That's alldata man, im sure the manuals are more detailed. But that's the best i can do.

**Just me thinking out loud, theres no difference between parts cleaners. Yes maybe some do work better for certain parts but ultimately it all does the same thing. Just buy brake clean, it cleans, its starter fluid, its sensor cleaner, it does it all and its the cheapest. After you've checked your vacuum routing for the fifth time, spray some brake clean around your lines, and stop if your idle changes, thats where your leak will be.

More notes:
*if it sucks at idle but smooths out when you rev it then you know its not valve train. when you open her up, vacuum drops, vacuum is only present at idle and steady cruise..so if you rev it and you hear clanking its a valve, if it smooths its vacuum.
*Don't ˟˟˟˟ with your MAF or TPS! dont backprobe or adjust anything.
*Timing is easy and important, but! if it ran fine before then chances are it didnt just readjust itslef, but timing lights are free to rent and i have pictures for you if youd like to check it..
*You most likely have good compression if it smooths out off idle.... busted valves make you run like crap, you'd know if it happened. so i dont worry with that.
*YES! check your plugs, gap is @ 0.03, and if they look questionable, check the points in the cap, check the rotor tip, and if anything look questionable, tune-up time.

 

ok sweet thanks alot AGAIN! man I love this site, will report back either this evening or tonight and let yah know how it goes!

 

Honest, not trying to be disagreeable, just for the sake of banter... I just found that too many times, when troubleshooting my rig;.... When I got info that said, "Don't worry about this, it's impossible" or "Unlikely " even, I ended up, on a couple occasions, passing by something that was indeed a problem. As many theories as possible to verify/rule out is best, right?

PS> Feel free to tell me, "Nope, yer wrong", ....I always want to be learning, honest!

 

well i have found that after replacing all of my damn vacuum line to the silcone kit, that i have two lines completely collapsing at idle and then expanding enough to push or pull air through once out of idle! This is BULL@#$%! i used the same silicone kit roger did and i find this, I am going to oreillys in the morning to get original vacuum hosing that is STIFFER!

The two that are collapsing: PCV valve to intake and one of the two power steering lines. even though the other line are fine and it was a great and i broke most of the 25 year old lines when i pulled them off due to their age and deteriation! so I am not too angry and it was nice to pull the intake off and replace the injectors and see the gas puddles left from two split injectors and such! although i probably have spent more money then needed.

I will still pull plugs tomorrow and double check them along wth cap and rotor! Also, I am having problems with the rear #4 cylinder spark plug as it seems like it is wanting to cross thread the last time i put it in?

Also, since I have this great wealth of knowledge here, what is the average cost of going to 4:88 gears front and back, I dont have the tools or time to do them myself,or i would try but it is really precise and would rather have someone else do it! And I am thinking of putting an AUSSIE int he rear? Good idea? this is a budget sorta build and a semi-daily driver, by the way!

Also, will update on the hose issue!

Ok crap, one last thing, my kc lights: where should I hook the white wire since I dont want to tap the headlights?

 

Did you check your PCV like I'd suggested?(or was that another thread?...sorry if I'm misremembring... No time to read back right this minute.)

I can't see that line collapsing, silicone or not, unless the PCV is sticking completely shut until you eliminate the 'vacuum draw' by increasing RPM's. Not an expert at this...but>>> (At idle, you should pull 14-16 inches of vacuum... then a lil more as idle goes up just slightly, and then, when you get on it at all, the vacuum should drop off almost completely as the Throttle body is far more open and is drawing all the air it needs through the opened throttle body and then open valves.... Then, when you idle, Crankcase pressure builds up and is forced back through the PCV into the Plenum, where it goes out through the intake and then exhaust valves...but it DOES NOT allow those same gasses back in through itself)....'GUYS? LIL HELP ON THIS?...doubt I'm explaining it properly.' What I'm saying is, if the valve inside the PCV has risen up and stuck under more vacuum, it would make sense that it would collapse. Try figuring out what is causing that hose to not be able to pull air through unimpeded before you go replacing all the lines???

Your book has a simple test for the PCV where you just blow on it both directions. (I believe it should allow air from bottom to top, but not back the other way into the head from the top.....read up to make sure that's correct.) When mine was sticking it was popping the larger front breather hose off the head because all that Crankcase pressure had nowhere to go...make sense?

 

haha yeah ur pretty close, i have the silicone lines zip tied with small ones to the pcv valve, under the heat th silicone line gets way to flexible and the suction frm the intake makes it collapse. and letting barely any air go through as to why is WILL idle just really rough. So I pinched the line shut and it go worse and then i used both hands to open the line up (squeezing it open), and the idle got better. so I am going to get some stiff black VAC hose today and try that and I am thinking that will solve the problem@!

 

Tyler....

I'm sorry, but I'm still not getting whether you just simply took out the PCV and tested it per the FSM or Haynes? Even if it allows SOME air through, revealing some change in idle when "pinching it".... it COULD STILL be done or need to be cleaned.

Can you just clear up for me whether or not you've replaced/or/tested the PCV?