I have a 85 22Re that as a rough idle no matter if it is cold or warm. I just replaced all of the vacuum hoses to pure silicone, and a new A/C Idle VSV, adjusted the valves (and yes the problem was before the valves were adjusted), LC Header, New Denso O2 sensor.

I have searched heavily for the source of my problem and am thinking I may be pulling the IACV off this evening to flush it out and clean it out, but I am unsure if that is the source.

Also, can anyone tell me what is a good alternative to the chrome trim around the windshield? And is the rear output shaft bearing on the transfer case easy to replace?

 

Did you check timing? an O2 sensor won't effect idle, i'm not sure how often they go bad but MAF unit possibly aswell.

 

well I am just curious as to how the timing would have changed if it wasnt touched? it was running fine before I replaced to O2 sensor and the vacuum hoses, but I have went through the entire vacuum system to double check and make sure I havent missed a line.

 

did it start running rough after you replaced the hoses and o2? how about off idle, how does it run at 1,200-2,500?

 

haha yes, actually when I replaced the new A/C VSV on top of the valve cover, and anything over idle its runs GREAT!

 

If it was running fine before you replaced the vacuum lines, O2 sensor and valve, I'd start by pinching the vacuum lines one at a time with pliers until idle stabilizes. then you know you have a leak at that one.
your idle valve line can also be pinched to eliminate that. when engine is warm it should be closed .
what may also be happening is lines got incorrectly routed and you EGR may be open at idle.
I got rid of all my lines except the fuel pressure, PCV, and booster, blocked off the EGR and she runs really smooth.

 

how did you block off the EGR and would you happen to have pictures of that? and how to do it? or atleast good directions?

 

undo the bolts holdint the EGR pipe to the manifold. using the gasket as a template make a block-off plate out of some thin metal-(beer can) and slip it between the manifold and gasket. bolt the EGR pipe back on-no flow this way, and you can always switch back by removing the plate.
the other thing I wanted to mention is that after any repairs withsensor replacement is is a good idea to pull the EFI fuse and leave it out for a minute. this will reset adaptation data and let the control unit learn the new sensor

 

ok thank will let you know if that works!

 

any other ideas out there?

 

Rough idle while cold or warm, eh? Well, I've had an INSANE journey that you can see in my troubleshooting thread in my sig. Started with the Build thread, also there, hahaha. Mine ended up being the CAM. it was TOAST. NOT saying that's likely your issue... just that I mention it because there is a cheap test to verify if it's vacuum or efi or mechanically related. A guru I know ran mine on propane, with the Fuel pump unplugged and injectors out of the picture.... it still missed like a freak. So, it led us to 'mechanical'. (AFTER 3 MONTHS OF CHASING MY TAIL AS A NEWBIE!!!! HAHHAA)

I agree with the above statement of "reset the ecu". Just pull the EFI fuse for 20 min or so, that'll do it. I doubt your issue will go away doing this, however.

You mentioned the IACV, .... The most common way that will effect idle is by making it race(if it's stuck open) or, on the other end, it will never idle up when cold. The IACV is connected, electronically, to the EFI system by using coolant temps to open or close. It takes over when in open loop(cold) for the throttle body, causing it to take in much more air than the Throttle body is capable of with just the flap-adjustment screw setting. It has a metallic arm in it with a spring that closes as the temperature rises of the coolant. If you have NO idle up when cold....it's either clogged, or the arm is toast or it's just spent, period. Mine could not be cleaned, and after getting an OEM dealer one for 125$.... it works perfectly, now idling up to 1100 rpm when cold.

I'm assuming you have no codes, right?

I would FIRST check my Vacuum routing, after resetting the ECU. Then, if no luck, start(if no codes are present) with a multi-meter check of the AFM, TPS, Ignition System and so forth, to rule out, at the very least, a 'SHOT' unit of some sort. Sensors are VERY touchy, and so is your ECU, if it doesn't like what it's reading. Since it appears this all began AFTER the O2 and Vacuum rehab..... I'd be looking for mis-routed vacuum, first, as the O2 doesn't really come into play until your motor is in 'closed loop'(operating temp).

Sometimes, when replacing lines, the wiring can be nudged in an unfriendly way, causing a break in some line, within the wiring insulation, that might not throw a code. First things first....

1. Any codes?
2. VACUUM ROUTING CORRECT?
3. Fuel Filter new?
4. Any chance it's making a 'hissing noise'???(That happens when the AC/VSV lines are reversed, causing a pretty decent vacuum leak.
5. If vacuum lines don't reveal an improper routing issue; Get readings of resistance from AFM, TPS, Pick-up Coil, etc.

A rough idle, 90% of the time(so I'm told by many Guru's, lol) is due to Vacuum leak or improper routing of vacuum lines. IT HAPPENS, I would know, haha. Sometimes, when things are smooth, then you seal up the vacuum really well, ....it can begin to chunk out. That would be because it's(The ECU) adjusted to a certain air/fuel mixture, and now you've introduced MUCH more sealed vacuum to the plenum. So, yes, reset the ECU for sure, just for the heck of it. However, it can also be mechanical.... and, if you're doing valve lash, then you're obviously capable and could EASILY get some pics of your CAM lobes, next time you're in there, yeah? Just curious. Don't pull the cover just for that. But, if you run out of possibilities, ..... why not check and be sure, eh? I only mention this because, well.... I chased my tail for 3 months, ending in a solution of "IDIOT who did my head re-used my original cam, after doing WHAT HE SAID was a proper grind on it". Put in a new 261 Cam from engnbldr.... VOILA, 90% of my issues are gone~! LOL.

Best wishes, I'm subscribed!

Mark

 

PS> Another rig I had(86 22re) had a really odd idle issue that was actually finally tracked down to the BVSV. It works with your EGR system. A shop(back before I became my own mechanic of sorts, lol) said, "it's the EGR, ....that's your problem". Which didn't fix my problem. It WAS EGR related.... but it was the BVSV causing it. A very simple vacuum pump/gauge test can verify if it's toast or not. Very simple vacuum test for the EGR as well, along with the soda/beer can idea can rule that out. The EGR modulator can also cause issues, and from what I'm told by many Smog Pro's..... it's FAR more common for that to go bad than the EGR itself.

 

Another thing you can do is to pull the throttle body and give it a good cleaning, also make sure the vacuum ports arn`t plugged. The throttle body can get very dirty on the inside from the egr valve. Also pull out the cold start injector and clean it.

 

Yep, mine had 2 ports, including the larger Booster port that was almost TOTALLY plugged. Actually, one of them, a steering vacuum port, was. My plenum and Throttle Body plate were so caked with hardened carbon, it looked like parts of Hawaii near the coast, a virtual lava forest, lol.

CSI could be nasty.. wouldn't think it would cause a rough idle, but YES, while he's diggin in there, might as well do the routine recommended maintenance. If he's gonna pull the plenum, might as well have the injectors serviced as well, eh? Just sayin, lol. Isn't too expensive for a can of AFM cleaner, either.

 

thanks guys and yeah the cleaning would probably be best place to start, it just always seemed like a bigger project then I wanted to do.

 

any help with the rear output shaft bearing? and what is the normal cost for going to 4:88 gears?

 

so how did it go? find a leak?

 

no, no leak to be found, and dint get ˟˟˟˟ done with it last night, wife apparently didnt want to do anything to help out around the house and it got dark before i knew it and i have no light under my shed where i have it parked! I am off work tomorrow, and plan on doing many things actually starting tonight!

But keep the ideas coming as I will be checking many things!

 

Checked or replaced your PCV lately? Mine gave me problems and was breathing well both directions(not good, lol)... I think recommended replacement is like 15 or 30K miles???

Something like 9$ at toyota, I think I paid.

 

yah i am picking up a new one in the morning, along with a bunch of cleaning supplies, i have the TB, IACV, and intake off of it right now! all I could get done before it got too dark! and the Intake is ridiculously caked with carbon! Any good things to clean it with? Also I'm going to clean out the EGR valve while I am at it. and I guess pull and check the fuel injectors, whats good to look for on the injectors? or could I do a quick service?