4.88 3rds in a 85?
#4
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,692
Likes: 58
From: Marysville, WA
One thing tho, you will have to make sure the flange will match up to your drivelines. Toyota used 3 different bolt patterns on their flanges (hence the triple drilled flange Marlin sells) so before you install it, just check to make sure your driveline matches.
#5
And if it doesn't match, don't swap the flanges out, you WILL ruin the setup on the gears. You can rotate the driveshaft 90 degrees and drill new holes though.
#6
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#9
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,692
Likes: 58
From: Marysville, WA
You can, but you would have to get the diffs rebuilt. Reason being the crush sleeve to set the pinion depth. Once you take it apart, you have to replace that crush sleeve of it can loosen up and KABOOM your diff is toast.
#10
#11
??? Are you serious??? I have swapped/removed flanges on almost every 3rd Ive ever touched and never had a problem. Ive never even heard this before. Acording to what you say, if you even replace the dust cap, you have to rebuild the 3rd. Can you give a good source for this info?
#14
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,692
Likes: 58
From: Marysville, WA
??? Are you serious??? I have swapped/removed flanges on almost every 3rd Ive ever touched and never had a problem. Ive never even heard this before. Acording to what you say, if you even replace the dust cap, you have to rebuild the 3rd. Can you give a good source for this info?
Talk to any diff shop. Hell, call Northwest differential and ask them. If you UNBOLT the flange, you have to reset the pinion depth. Thats just common sense. In order to reset pinion depth, you need to replace the crush sleeve (or just install a solid spacer).
Source? Again, NW Diff, Randys Ring and Pinion, any reputable shop, etc.
Perhaps "rebuild the diff" was the wrong terminology used. But you cannot just simply replace with flange without the RISK (see Potential Problems) of damaging the diff.
#16
In the 3rds Im running now, yes I use the solid spacers because coming down hard on a rock would damage the crush sleeve, and screw up the pinion depth.
But like I said, Ive never had any problems just taking the flange off and putting it back on, even on my street yotas. Never heard of anyone else having any problems either.
#17
your a little off with you terminology, you wont affect pinion depth just by taking off the nut, pinion depth is determined by the shim in between the big pinion bearing and the pinion head, but taking off the nut and reinstalling it with out installing a new crush sleeve may affect pinion bearing preload, the only way the nut would affect depth is if it comes loose and allows the pinion to slide in/flop around
Last edited by superjoe83; Aug 26, 2008 at 03:42 PM.
#20
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,692
Likes: 58
From: Marysville, WA
There is a dust cap under the flange that helps keep junk out of the pinion seal. If you do any rock crawling, that dust cap has a tendency to get banged up and rub against the housing making a bunch of noise. To replace this, the flange must be removed. If what you say is true, then that cannot be replaced without replacing the crush sleeve and resetting pinion depth.
In the 3rds Im running now, yes I use the solid spacers because coming down hard on a rock would damage the crush sleeve, and screw up the pinion depth.
But like I said, Ive never had any problems just taking the flange off and putting it back on, even on my street yotas. Never heard of anyone else having any problems either.
In the 3rds Im running now, yes I use the solid spacers because coming down hard on a rock would damage the crush sleeve, and screw up the pinion depth.
But like I said, Ive never had any problems just taking the flange off and putting it back on, even on my street yotas. Never heard of anyone else having any problems either.
Sorry i was thinking bearing dust cap, not the cap thats part of the flange (flange and cap are one piece IIRC?) so you are correct there.
FWIW, solid spacers are the way to go. Then there isn't any question of "did it hurt the sleeve or ?!
And yes, you are right Joe, i mean bearing preload.




