pitbull_myk

I am an experienced mechanic and been through the ringer on this one (TPS, MAF, intake temp sensor ,etc). Heavily wheeled 1989 22RE truck runs fine and revs like a chainsaw, but it won't restart once it's warmed up and shut off. Pick-up coil in the distributor tests fine (172 ohms). I suspect the igniter box or the ECU, and I can put a 4.3 in it cheaper than replacing either one of them. Gonna start chasing wires, but I would like to find a procedure for testing the igniter box / unit thing that the pickup coil wires run to. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!!

pitbull_myk

Bump.................................

redsyota

any coolant loss? I chased the same problem on an 86 4runner about a month ago and it would start fine when cold and restart for about 5 minutes afterwards but once warmed up it would just crank and crank. a quick check of your plugs and a compression test or a coolant pressure test should shed some light. Mine ended up being just a headgasket poorly installed by the previous owner (loose bolts on rear of the the head) Good luck on the fix

pitbull_myk

I have gotten some responses about this thread already being started, but I read them all and none of them helped.

Anyway, here is what I found out today. Yesterday I was jumping the battery with my other car because it had been sitting for a while and it would fire right up when cold and run fine. Today I tried it without jumping it and it will crank and crank but won't start unless I jump it with my car. All my grounds have good connections, is it possible I have some sort of short in the battery itself? Could that be related to my won't restart until it cools down problem?

I also tried the fuel pump jumper again for giggles, and it still doesn't help.

I really don't believe this is a mechanical problem because when it does start it runs like a raped ape.

Does anyone know what exactly is different in the start circuit when this thing is warm?

pitbull_myk

tried another battery, still only starts when jumped. Tested every sensor and found no injector pulse on warm engine restart, which is odd because it runs fine when hot. I discovered that the pick-up coil in the distributor tests out of spec when it gets warmed up, although it tests fine when it's cool. Hopefully this will resolve my problem. Now I just have to find one to try.

pitbull_myk

still no luck. A little closer to lighting it on fire.

siminiramp33

I have the same problem on my 85 4runner starts normal when cold, but wont fire when hot. It just cranks and cranks till i jump out and spray it with starting fluid. Then it will fire up and run fine. Ive tried diffrent afms, ecu's, coil, tps, 3rd 22re ive had in it same thing.. Im really leaning to no injector pluse when warm?

SheepishLion89

Anyone figure this one out?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Well the original poster tested and wasn't getting injector pulses unless there was a a second battery connected.

This is most likely voltage drop (brownout) in the ECU power supply route (main or secondary fusible links), or possibly the injector crimps failing. Since they didn't give many details of how they tested we are left to make guesses and assumptions.

The second guy postulated he wasn't getting injector triggers and uses starting fluid to get his going. There are atleast three reasons I know of that this will get a hard start to fire off and run. The first is a simple there is no fuel (no injector pulse) in this situation. Second is a AFR issue fixed by adding the more volatile fuel. The third is compression losses due to worn parts.

..
The original poster poised the question of how to test the ignition system. This is what a spark guage is designed to do, it's essentially an adjustable spark gap that tells you the voltage output from the coil when it discharges. This tells you the overall health (is the coil fully charging and discharging)..

If one was so inclined you could fake the trigger signal with an arduino or microcontroller of your choice and ramp up the trigger rate ("rpm") and see exactly when the voltage output of the coil drops beyond an acceptable voltage.

rattlewagon

Not sure if its related but had a similar issue with my 92 v6. Would start and run fine cold, and I could shut it off but HAD to re start with in 10 minuets or would have to wait till the truck cools back down till it would start back up.

Ended up being the fuel pump. Would run fine cold and warm, but not when it was cooling down...

13Swords

Pickup Coil being out of spec hot would do it, "fatigued" unit would have extra resistance in the windings when hot & a new pickup coil could solve it. Same goes for the Ignition Coil, this is the more common of the 2. Truck started fine cold & ran fine until shutoff, then wouldn't restart until the ignition coil cooled of for about 10 minutes & the resistance in the Secondary windings came down Secondary tested hot @ 22,000 Ohms, cold at 15,000 Ohms; stock spec is 16,500 Ohms max, even hot, so the extra resistance wasn't allowing any electrical energy to reach the distributor.

85straitfrontaxil

SO I'm looking at the original post by pitbull_myk and wondering if you torched the truck, or figured the problem out. SO My 85 w/ 22rec has the same issue. It had 300k on it and the distributor chipped a tooth and stopped turning so I rebuilt the top end, new chain and gears, new distributor, new injectors replaced the igniter and coil, water pump oil pump new head gasket and it still has the issue. I put another cpu from an 86 in it, and the 85s in the 86 and same thing the 86 truck runs with both, the 85 still does its thing when hot. At this point I'm thinkin gremlins, if anyone has anything new on this I'd like to get the old beast back in the mud without having to wait an hour for her to cool down to restart.

SheepishLion89

My issue was related to the temp switch on the intake manifold. Replaced it and worked like a charm. But if you replace the whole engine it might be gremlins no BS.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Pretty basic, if you disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator you might benefit from replacing the temperature switch. Refer to the hot start tsb.

85straitfrontaxil

Has had the H2o temp sending unit replaced. Some times it doesn't have an issue for days on end, other times it will turn over and over, other times it won't even turn over. It bump starts in all situations, and if the issue is that it won't turn over, All it needs to do is be pushed and the clutch released, and even if it doesn't turn enough to start, the starter now engages and the engine fires and off we go. And as far as the vacuum lines being disconnected, well you know that happened when I rebuilt the head. The thing I find the most humorous about this thread, and others I know that have had the same issue w/ their Yoda is that there is no engine light, and therefor no code??? Still calling Gremlins..Lol

ratas calientes

Check the coolant temperature sensor.

85straitfrontaxil

That was one of the replaced Items, installed a Brand new OEM unit from Toyota. I did figure a way around the problem, and I'm not sure that it is real "kosher" for no other term to use for factory correct, Although I will say that I have been using the little truck regularly, and it always starts and hasn't let me down yet! Only a Toyota 300k+ miles on the bottom end and it is still reliable and still fun to drive. Thank you for the info though..

​​​​​​​