84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

22re Amateur head gasket job, stuck at intake manifold

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Old 05-13-2013, 07:04 AM
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OK, so how come I am not getting any back up from you guys when I suggest having a machine shop rebuild the head and also do the timing chain while you are in there? How many miles are on that engine and on that timing chain? Is this just a band- aid job because everything already has 350,000 miles or do you plan on keeping it for a while?
Old 05-13-2013, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Buck87
OK, so how come I am not getting any back up from you guys when I suggest having a machine shop rebuild the head and also do the timing chain while you are in there? How many miles are on that engine and on that timing chain? Is this just a band- aid job because everything already has 350,000 miles or do you plan on keeping it for a while?
I agree with you.

get new chain, guides, and tensioner, they're reasonably priced, and some come with the seal/gasket kit.
as for getting the head rebuilt, (new springs, valves, seals, bushings, cam, rocker arms) thats a good idea, if its shot (ie. cracks, corroded) buy a used, rebuilt, or new one. they're not that expensive.

IF you opt for new head, maybe think about getting the bottom end (block, pistons, crank) new piston rings and crank bushings, don't forget the bottom has just as many miles as the top
Old 05-13-2013, 11:50 AM
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It was the first vehicle my dad ever bought, and it was the first vehicle I ever owned, so I'm pretty much willing to go through anything to get it running again[/QUOTE]

if you have an attachment to the ol'truck and want to see it running strong for years to come, rebuild it now. top and bottom, with good parts.
if you just want it back on the road for now, get that head fixed and slap a new HG in, done and done.
i know you said you arent a mechanic, neither am i, but i am mechanically inclined, im in the middle of rebuilding a 22r right now, let me tell you, it doesnt take a mechanic to do it, it takes a few special tools, a place to work, the internet, time, and the biggest hurdle is ...money
if you can afford to rebuild it, dont even think about it, just do it. you will be glad you did.

if you plan on rebuilding soonish, and the timing isnt bad now, just do the HG now, the rebuild kit should come with a new timing set.
Old 05-13-2013, 07:44 PM
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Wow I take a day off and there's a ton of responses on here!

SoCal4Running thanks for the picture, that helped me understand what you guys meant a lot better about the corroded areas

Buck - My old man replaced the timing chain, guides, sprocket, tensioner, and water pump etc about 5 years ago, so won't be needing to do any of that. If that hadn't been done though yes I'd say that would be necessary.

I wouldn't even know where to begin with rebuilding the bottom end. Removing the head proved to be fairly straightforward, beyond that I'm not so sure

I'm going to try to get some more pics up tomorrow of the block. Around the tops of the cylinders seems kind of rusty and like...worn down almost? Not sure if that's how it should look or not. I'll get some pics up.

Thanks for the input everyone!
Old 05-13-2013, 08:00 PM
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to be totally honest I personally find the bottom end easier, sure the specs are a little more specific, but really its just pistons block and crank. change some bushings, hone the cylinders, change the crank seals, and new piston rings and you're set.

unless of course something is bent, warmed, excessively warn, or damaged. then you have to get new. but engines, bare bone mechanical side, are pretty simple
Old 05-13-2013, 11:26 PM
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yep, bottom end is cake, IF you have the engine out and on a stand, rebuild kit will come with new pistons too, as far as not knowing where to begin....consider this community your one stop shop for advice and instruction, rebuilding an engine really helps you understand whats going on, when you hear a noise or see a drip, you can visualize the entire function of the engine and zero in on the fix, plus, its a toyota, simple, durable and dependable, comparatively cheap to rebuild, you deffinitely get back what you put in to them, i say take the plunge. it gets a little harder to do once you spin a rod bearing or drop a valve.
Old 05-14-2013, 09:38 AM
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i agree, if you have the time, and funds, engines are really simple to rebuild. also theres nothing better than hearing it run again after the rebuild. all you need is a hoist to get it out, and reinstall later, and a stand to work on it with.
Old 05-14-2013, 04:28 PM
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Removing everything you've had to already to take the head off is 90% of the way to taking the block out. It is also the harder part of it. The block is only 2 motor mounts and a few bell housing bolts.

5 years is a while and if you do consider changing the chain and guides again I would not consider it as being too soon or unnecessary.

In the end yes it is more money especially with the machine work but it might be worth it if you plan on keeping the truck.

How many miles on the engine/truck?

The hoist and stand you might even find someone in here close enough to let you borrow them.
If you were close to me I'd offer them.
Hoist can be kinda expensive but stands can be had on Craigslist for $20-$40.

Last edited by SoCal4Running; 05-14-2013 at 04:32 PM.
Old 05-14-2013, 06:02 PM
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Only 180k miles on the truck. Bought in CA and when my family moved here it was used pretty rarely until I was old enough to drive
Old 05-14-2013, 08:21 PM
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At 180k you could get away with a just a valve job for another couple of years. Do you have any oil leaks, or burning oil?
Old 05-14-2013, 08:32 PM
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Agreed, the bottom end should be fine.
That's just broken in
Old 05-15-2013, 04:19 PM
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It must burn oil, because I have to add some every month or so. Never noticed any spots under it other than whatever it is that constantly leaks from the felt around the ball on the tire
Old 05-15-2013, 05:30 PM
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We all (most of us) have to add oil

Most likely the valve stem seals but could be rings too...
Old 05-16-2013, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Hanserob
It must burn oil, because I have to add some every month or so. Never noticed any spots under it other than whatever it is that constantly leaks from the felt around the ball on the tire
How much is "some" According to Toyota 1 quart every 1000 miles(or something like that) is "normal" oil consumption.
If it doesn't smoke or foul plugs, I wouldn't worry too much.
Leak from felt around ball? Straight axle? That would possibly be axle seals leaking gear oil into the cv joint and then it runs out
Old 05-25-2013, 10:51 PM
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I've made some really disappointing progress in the past week on this aka NO PROGRESS. Whatsoever. I feel like kind of an ass because I've had so many people helping me on this forum and you guys and gals have been really great to me, and then I just stopped. At work we had one guy quit and another with a broken leg, and we've got deadlines to meet. All of which happened literally a few days after I got the head pulled. :/ the longer I wait the less chance I have of actually getting this truck put back together but I just all of a sudden literally don't have the time of day to do it. Hopefully I can get the head in to a machine shop soon but working 8-7 every day really isn't helping me right now.
Old 05-26-2013, 10:24 AM
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Thanks for the update! We do care.
Old 05-28-2013, 08:12 AM
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hang in there bud, you may not have the time now, but you care about this truck so you'll get the time again for it. I had to wait almost a month to make enough money to pay for the parts when my head blew. which by then i felt like i hadn't done anything and it would never end. but i found the time/money and gotter done pretty quick
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